September rides, bringing in the fall.

[north woods gal]

N.Y., good luck on the Mavic moo thing. Like everyone else, I'd just be guessing as to the cause, but please do let us know if you discover what's causing that weird noise. Hope the new wheel is the solution. Shimano wheels are a pretty safe bet. That's what will be going on my new Log Lady build.

At 5'7", a 54cm bike would be the right place for you to start for a good fit. I'm 5'9" and I go to a 56cm or, better yet, a 55cm, if they make it. I then factor in the usual mods needed when I test ride. As I've said, that's usually a new saddle, shorter stem and, sometimes, a narrower handlebar, even on a drop bar bike. Always a pain in the butt, but that's life for me when buying a unisex or men's bike.

The other factor that complicates predicting how a bike fits is our riding style. Mine, for instance, has changed since my accident. I was more or less forced into riding in a more upright position after my accident, but I now find that I greatly prefer it and tune my bikes, accordingly. If nothing else, pedaling more upright gives me a better view of our wonderful north woods scenery. At one time, though, I was pretty heavily into a down and aggressive riding position, but no more. That kind of position, though, is a whole different matter as to bike fit and bike choice. Good luck on your quest.

PS. Just a note of caution when comparing manufacturer's stack and reach numbers. Those are typically frame stack and reach numbers, not handlebar stack and reach numbers that you get when the bike is assembled. The final numbers as far as actual, effective stack and reach to the handlebars will change with the number of fork spacers you use under the stem when you put it on the fork, the length and angle of the stem and, of course the style of handlebar. Even moving your saddle forward or back can change these actual handlebar numbers, not to mention changing your seat height.

This is what I do when shopping for a new bike. I first check the frame stack and reach numbers on one of my current bikes that I like. I then compare those numbers to the frame stack and reach numbers on the new bike I want to buy. The numbers don't have to be a perfect match, though. They can be off 10mm (still less than half an inch) or so, even a bit more, because I can always adjust my final handlebar stack and reach as needed with changing out the right parts.