Tight downhill single track switchbacks

[north woods gal]

Actually, this would be a good thread to revive. I agree. Lots of issues, here, and I'd be glad to share my experiences and thoughts. Here's a few thoughts.

Wider bars: we gals have to be very careful, here. We don't have the upper body strength to manhandle those super wide bars like the guys do and, trust me, it takes strength to turn those big fat wheels on my fat bike when the trail goes soft. Super wide is all the rage, today, though, and it's being marketed, heavily. Yes, wider bars are helpful on downhill runs for stability, but only if you have the strength to handle them. Wider bars are slower and more awkward to turn - this from experience - and if you're riding in the soft stuff or the tight, techy stuff, strength and timing counts for a lot. We can lose that when we go too wide. Wide bars also mean more of a chance to snag in tight spots. For my trail work, I like a bar that is just a tad wider than my best length for the sake of strength. For me, I'm at my best strength at 690-700mm, so a 710mm bar is a good compromise. No wider, though. The good news is that wide flat bars that come with bikes as standard, these days, are built to be cut down, if needed.

Pedal position: Never, ever ride on single track downhill with one pedal down. Yes, it may be better for balance though a turn, but I can tell you from personal experience that it takes almost nothing in the way of a snag on a pedal to flip you and the bike. Been there and done that and more than once. Pedal position awareness is vital when riding single track, especially rough single track with roots and rocks. You can get away with a pedal down in a turn on the road, but on single track, especially single track you don't know, pedals at the level is always the safest way to ride when not pedaling.

Braking: When I brake on downhill runs, it's either lightly feathering with the rear brake or with both brakes, but never, ever with only the front (left) brake. One tiny mistake with too much force applied to the front brake when using the front brake, only, is setting you up for a serious endo. Going too heavy on the brakes with the hydraulic brakes that most MTBs have, these days, is all too easy to do, all the more so on a rough, bouncy trail. I always test my brakes for feel before starting a steep downhill.

When things turn slick, as with snow or mud, on a downhill, I find that lightly feathering the rear brake, only, helps to keep the front wheel going straight. On the slick stuff, locking the front wheel makes for a much greater chance of sliding out. Done that one, too.

Drop posts: These are all the rage, today, and I have tried them, but I don't really find that I need them on my trails, anyway. If I was doing single track in the mountains, I might find dropper posts useful. I do run my seats a bit lower for trail riding than road riding, though. Remember, we gals can go very low on our seats compared to guys. Guys do have more stuff to damage, after all, when they go low. Dropper posts are expensive and they are also much heavier than a good aluminum seat post and it's one more thing to mess with and adjust when riding. They don't do much for me, but they might work better for you. Try and see for yourself.

Steering on the downhill runs: I steer with a very light hold on the handlebars and pretty much let the bike find it's way down through a run, applying just enough steering to avoid the obstacles. I run pedals at the level, weight up off the seat, knees flexed, torso in a low crouch and back behind the seat, and actually do as much steering with my feet and legs as with the bars.