Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Click the "Create Account" button now to join.

To disable ads, please log-in.

Shop at TeamEstrogen.com for women's cycling apparel.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 46
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Posts
    70

    To disable ads, please log-in.

    I reckon the worst bit about cleaning the bike is the chain, but it needs to be done regularly to prevent premature wear and tear.

    I think the best invention is the master/quick link. They are very easy to install and the link itself does not cost very much. If you are not confident breaking the chain using a chain breaker take it down to the LBS and they will install the link in no time.

    With this link installed you can simply squeeze the link and the links will come apart allowing you to remove the chain from the bike. The next step is to degrease the chain. I wouldn't waste your money on expensive bike specific degreasers when you can get much cheaper in the auto shop for exactly the same kind of product. I put my chain in a container and pour the degreaser on top and leave it for about 2 minutes to allow the degreaser to work its magic. Then I come back with a old toothbrush and scrub the chain removing any visible grease/grit. Once this is done you want to remove the degreasing agent, so a good rinse with water does the job. You then need to lay the chain out to dry otherwise it will rust. I put my chain on a bit of newspaper in the sun or in front of the heater.

    While it is drying you can clean the other bits of the drivetrain, including the cluster, jockey wheels and chain rings. If your cluster is full of crap you can use a bit of degreaser on the toothbrush to remove it with a rag. After chain is dry put it back on bike and add chain lube.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    On The Edge
    Posts
    384
    Great tips on here.
    I'd really like to take the chain off - and do have a chain removal tool. I've used it several times before, but on a much older bike.
    My current bike has a Shimano HG chain - am I right in thinking these have special pins which aren't designed to be removed and reinserted? Can anyone shed any light on this?
    Maybe a master/quick link would be a good idea if that's the case.

    I'm always envious of riders who have clean, shiny chains with nice clean grease. My chain always looks like I've been riding down the mines, no matter how much I love and attention it gets from my demoted toothbrush!
    Life is Good!

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by SnappyPix
    Great tips on here.
    I'd really like to take the chain off - and do have a chain removal tool. I've used it several times before, but on a much older bike.
    My current bike has a Shimano HG chain - am I right in thinking these have special pins which aren't designed to be removed and reinserted? Can anyone shed any light on this?
    Maybe a master/quick link would be a good idea if that's the case.
    Any chain has to be breakable or it couldn't be installed on your bike. I'm not aware of any difference in HG in this regard. But I wouldn't try a master link on a HG unless it was specifically made for that chain. The HG links are beveled in specific ways. Keep using the old chain tool. Regarding master links, it's an old idea that's been recycled. Used to be that only 3-speed and single-speed bikes used master links. How many times did people come into the bike shop in the 70s asking for master links, and we'd reply "Master links don't work on 10 speeds (ie. with derailleurs)".

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,192
    I put my chain in a container and pour the degreaser on top and leave it for about 2 minutes to allow the degreaser to work its magic.
    I've also heard that some people shake the stuffins out of the container once they put the chain/degreaser in. Then pour off the gritty degreaser & have another go at it.

    These same people then dip the chain in some sort of magic potion (after it's rinsed & dried, of course) that lubes everything up until time for the next chain cleaning - which will be soon.

    These are also the people who polish the bike to a fair-thee-well & complain about never having enough time to ride.

    (Hint: I ain't one of these people, I'm just reporting what I read)

    I kind of like the idea of agitating the chain, since you took it off, anyway. And maybe even a second wash is a good idea. I'll probably never know, though
    Give big space to the festive dog that make sport in the roadway. Avoid entanglement with your wheel spoke.
    (Sign in Japan)

    1978 Raleigh Gran Prix
    2003 EZ Sport AX

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,253
    Quote Originally Posted by SnappyPix
    My current bike has a Shimano HG chain - am I right in thinking these have special pins which aren't designed to be removed and reinserted? Can anyone shed any light on this?
    Maybe a master/quick link would be a good idea if that's the case.
    I've had this same question. From searching around it appears that there might be some masterlinks out there for shimano chains but most people still break and repin the chain, using a new pin each time. Looking at online retailers I'm seeing lots of Shimano chain pins sold in packs of 10, 20, etc. which would support this theory.

    For now I just plan to keep with the onbike cleaning, it's better than nothing. Maybe every 500 miles or so I'll go to the trouble of removing the chain to clean it perfectly.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    235
    I use Park Tool's Cyclone Chain Scrubber. I fill the reservoir with the same citrus degreaser that I use to clean the rest of my bike. I also use Park Tool's GearClean Brush to really scrub the chain, the cassette, the chainrings, and everything else the chain touches.

    When I'm done washing and rinsing the bike, I use a clean rag to dry it as best as I can. Then I bounce the bike on the rear wheel to try and shake out as much water as possible, and use the rag some more. Then I let it dry overnight.

    The next day, I lube the chain with the appropriate Rock N Roll chain lube. I use Extreme on my MTB, Absolute Dry on my road bike, and more recently, Gold, which I use on both. Rock N Roll lubricates and cleans the chain, so I use that between washes. I've become a huge fan of the stuff. It's kinda hard to get here so my friends and I buy it by the case.

    Regarding WD-40: I'm no expert on petroleum products, but pretty much everyone has told me to keep the stuff away from my bike.

    Oh, and for handwashing, I use lavender-scented Johnson's Baby Oil. It works like a charm, it's cheap, and it smells great.

    ~Cari

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Posts
    70
    There is definitely links out there to fit on shimano chains. I run xtr/dura-ace chains on both my mountain bike and road bike. The links I use are called Wipperman links and they fit on the shimano chain fine. I buy my links online from JensonUSA for US$4.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    On The Edge
    Posts
    384
    I've found links for 10 speed shimano chains, but still on the hunt for a 9 speed link. My LBS stocks packs of 5 pins, so I'll get some as a standby (and it's something that my bulging tool bag doesn't have, so obviously a necessity!) Actually, thinking about it, it IS a necessity - would be scuppered if my chain ever snapped and the pin bent.

    On the subject of cleaning chains - I've used dishwashing/washing-up liquid as a cheap alternative to citrus degreaser. Seems to work a treat. I don't think there are any ingredients in there that are harmful to the chain?
    Life is Good!

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    51

    cleaning chains

    I clean my chain regularly every two weeks or so.

    However, if I have been riding in the wet or on particularly dusty/gritty roads then I clean as soon as possible and definitely before the next ride. No way am I going to be breaking my chain every couple of days in those circumstances.

    I use one of those chain cleaners that clip onto the chain and kerosene as my cleaner of choice. I empty and refill the reservoir with clean kerosene at least once to rinse the chain after cleaning. Then clean the cogs with soft toothbrush dipped in kerosene, wipe everything with a rag and apply lube.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Off eating cake.
    Posts
    1,700

    Dishwashing liquid...

    Nothing like a bucket of hot water and Sunlight (well, I use Fairy here) and a big sponge to get all the mud off my bike. And, yeah, a squirt of it on an old toothbrush is pretty handy for getting gunk off the chain and that too.

    Y'all are making me guilty about how long it's been since my chain got a really good clean and re-lube instead of a quick once over.
    Drink coffee and do stupid things faster with more energy.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    98
    I think I might be the only person who never degreases the chain! I only ever wipe it off a bit after a re-lube with TriFlow. When I can't stand how dirty it's become (or when my ruler shows 12 1/16") then I replace it with new.

    Sheldon Brown has an interesting article about chain maintenance:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Off eating cake.
    Posts
    1,700

    SadieKate...

    I thought of you when I was cleaning my bike today. Well, that's not scrictly true: I thought of G&Ts, which I figured was all your fault.
    Drink coffee and do stupid things faster with more energy.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    114

    Chain Lubes

    My housemate was told by someone in a Portland LBS that the best kind of lube depends on the climate in which you live and ride. Apparently, this person does not approve of WD-40 for the Pacific Northwest, and recommended "A.T.B. Chain Lubricant" for all season cycling here. I am sure if you went to LBS in different regions of the country and world, you'd be told a different story for every climate.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    I'm the only one allowed to whine
    Posts
    10,557
    Lookin' for Boeshield T-9. Might have to go to a different lbs if I can't convince Recycled Cycles to order some for me. (Montlake Cycles carries it. So does Nashbar.) Good for PNW cold and wet weather, without clogging the cassette like White Lightning.
    "If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson

  15. #45
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    58

    Spin Doctor

    Someone already mentioned this but it bears repeating:

    Spin Doctor Clean Machine Chain Cleaner. Comes with a plastic encasement that collects all the gunk as you clean. Intricate brushes attack the chain up down and around.

    Works like a charm. I take a look after a ride to gauge how much dirt I picked up. Typically every three rides.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •