Quote Originally Posted by gingergirl View Post
Wow...ok, lots of great advice here! I am a newbie so this is all great. Thank you.

I revisited my car loading technique and removing front tire, putting rear tire in first and moving seat forward are allowing me to get the bike in the backseat without lowering the seat. Progress!

I will need to adjust the seat a few more times though until I find the right setting. I have knee issues and if I don't get it high enough, my knees will let me know. Too high and my soft tissue lets me know. Once I get this figured out than I won't touch it anymore.

I did go back to lbs today (without my bike) and had one of the guys show me how to move my seat. The bike that he used to show me is the same as mine and when I tried it, the seat felt stuck, just like mine. These bikes don't have a normal seat collar with a bolt but have a wedge that sits in front of the post with a bolt in it. He loosened the bolt a few turns and then twisted the seat and it was loose enough to work with.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a torque wrench? Something with a small handle since it'll be parallel to the seat post and hand under the saddle when I use it.
Wow, my Ruby is a 2011 model so I have no knowledge of the new wedge-type seatpost binder. I did a search for info and mostly drew a blank. (Note: I did find a video describing one guy's nightmare experience when he removed his seatpost. The moral of his story: Never totally remove the seatpost from the frame.)

I couldn't find any torque specs for this type of binder on Specialized's web site. So my advice is (a) don't lower the seatpost in order to load the bike into your car, and (b) have the dealer do the loosening/tightening of the binder when you need the seat height adjusted.