Help - Tire Pressure / Floor Pump Issue

[BikeDutchess]

As soon as you pump it once, the gauge should move to show the then-current pressure for the tire. The gauge doesn't just show what pressure you add (by pumping), it shows the total pressure in the tire (some show the total pressure as soon as you hook it up, and some may not show the total pressure until you actually start pumping). You would rarely start from zero (in the tire) unless you had a flat and/or just mounted a new tube in the tire.

ETA: Blueberry and I were writing at the same time.

[Dubz]

Thanks a lot, girls. Now I see why I'm confused. I thought I was being a bit thick. My pump isn't showing the current pressure on start up. It starts at 0 all the time. I think I need to bring it back to my LBS to see if it's working properly because it looks like it isn't. I don't think I've done anything wrong because I've looked at loads of vids online and have followed exactly what they say to do with attaching a floor pump to a Presto valve.

/ Warning - Rant Beginning: It's a bit frustrating tbh because the amount of simple things I've had to ask about or try to figure out myself is unreal. I don't mind learning or researching stuff, but some information either isn't out there or is hard to find. I wish there was a website for people starting out, who are non techies, with loads of vids to explain the basics. For example, I was having problems with my speed / cadence sensor not reading. It was only when I went back to my LBS that they showed me that there was a magnet on my pedal which was slightly out of line with my sensor and that my training wheel also needed a magnet. I had spent ages looking online to try and figure out the issue myself as I'm the type of person who likes to solve things on my own. I had no idea that sensors needed magnets or that I had one on my pedal and one on my normal rear wheel. It just didn't occur to me and it wasn't mentioned anywhere online or on the manufacturer's website.

Some of the guys in my LBS are really helpful and understanding, but some of them look at me like I've 2 heads when I ask these kind of questions. That's why I'm glad to have found TE. I wish there were more women working in bike shops. It would make life easier because I think they would be more understanding and you can ask embarrassing questioning without feeling like a total eejit. / Rant over!

So basically, I really appreciate your help.

@Muirenn - Yes, I'm Irish. From Dublin. But I live in London now. Dublin's my home, so I'll always love it. But London's great. Any time I go back to Dublin, I start getting homesick for London after a few days. I love it.

Ireland has very beautiful parts. You should visit. They've recently opened the 'Wild Atlantic Way' which is apparently the world’s longest defined coastal touring route. It's in the West of Ireland. Since you enjoy cycling, that might be something to consider checking out one day. Some of it is really spectacular. Especially if you like scenery that's a bit savage and untamed.

Here's the website for it and a vid as well, so you can have a look.

http://www.ireland.com/en-gb/wild-atlantic-way/#

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNjsFzyKJOI

My bike is a 15" Starry Night Black / Volt Green Trek 7.2 FX 2015 btw. It's your average bike, I know. But I love it more every day.

[Dubz]

My pleasure, Muirenn!

[OakLeaf]

I'm wondering if you have the pump head set straight. It's possible - actually kind of easy - to get the pump head just slightly crosswise on a Presta (a not o) valve, so what happens when you press the plunger is that pressure just builds up inside the hose but doesn't go into the tube because the valve stem isn't depressed.

Without having watched all the videos and I'm not sure what's already been explained here - a Presta valve has no spring. The valve is held closed simply by the air pressure inside the tube, and the lock nut on the valve stem is just for extra security when going over bumps. So the corollary to that is that it needs air pressure from the outside to open the valve and fill the tube. But if the valve stem is jammed up against the gasket, which can happen if it isn't exactly straight, then the valve will never open. That's why it can be so very hard to pump a completely empty tube - without any air in the tube, the valve stem just wobbles around and is very hard to keep aligned.

I personally find it easiest to get the pump head on and straight at 12:00. Some do better at 6:00 - to me, I get too much pull from the hose in that position and I have to be bending down too far to steady the head effectively, but it's all what works for you. You'll want to hold the pump head straight - heel of your hand on the tire, fingers on the pump head - while you use your other hand on the plunger until you can feel air going into the tube.

Difficulty in getting the pump head on exactly straight can be a sign of wear in the gasket, too. Again, I didn't watch your videos - it sounds like your pump head has separate attachments for Schraeder and Presta? Most pumps use a single head, and in that case if it's been used much on Schraeder valves, it can wear pretty quickly to the point where it's no use on Presta valves. But even if it's only ever been used on Presta valves, it will wear. Every couple of years is a typical replacement interval. Rebuild kits are cheap and your LBS should have them.

As far as tire pressure - recommendations based on road conditions and rider weight are for the road. On the trainer, I would definitely inflate the tires to max recommended pressure to minimize tread wear and heat buildup.

[Dubz]

@Oakleaf - Thanks for your advice.

Everyone else: I managed to resolve this issue after going to my LBS and getting them to check my pump and training tire.

Here's a video from Terry Bicycles which is really useful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9byRp9e2USU

And my very own step-by-step guide for anyone who's new to using floor pumps with Presta Valves!

- Move your wheel so that the Presta Valve is at 6 O'Clock (some people prefer 12 O'Clock, but for the Bontrager Recharger Track Pump 6 O'Clock is easier).
- Remove the black cap. If you lose the black cap, don't worry. It's only for aesthetics.
- Don't worry about the silver cylinder thing threaded on the valve. Apparently it's not majorly important.
- Unscrew the little knob at the top of the valve as far as it can go (it isn't removable).
- Press the top of the knob inwards to make sure it's not stuck. If there's air in the tire, it'll release a bit of air.
- Place the head of the pump with the bigger hole on top of the knob (on the Bontrager Recharger Track Pump this is the grey head).
- On the Bontrager Recharger Track Pump, the black head with the smaller hole is for Schrader Valves.
- Press down so that the head of the pump is fitted on.
- Lock the lever in place (on the Bontrager Recharger Track Pump the black lever will be pointing upwards).
- If the head of the pump or the lock is not on properly, or the valve is bent, air will leak or not go into the tire.
- The pressure gauge on the Bontrager Recharger Track Pump will read 0 PSI, even if there's air in the pump.
- Pump using just 1 foot on the floor pump (this works best on the Bontrager Recharger Track Pump).
- Give about 2 or 3 pumps and the needle will move to show what the current pressure is in the tire e.g 20 PSI.
- I found that at about 80 PSI it seemed like the pump wouldn't work any more and that the tire was full, even though I needed to pump up to 110 PSI.
- In this case, keep pumping to where you need to be. It's just that the resistance is harder as the tire becomes fuller.
- Then pump about 2 or 3 times more. This is to replace the air you will lose when closing the valve.
- Unlock the lever. Quickly pull off the head of the pump and screw the knob back as far as it can be screwed to minimise air loss.
- Don't push the knob in this time or you will lose air.
- Replace the black cap and you're good to go.