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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    4,632
    Long-fingered gloves, preferably that fit loosely enough that you can get a liner glove in there if you so choose.

    Layers. Everyone is a little different when it comes to how warm they want to be, but layering gives you some flex as to how much you put on and take off. My wool baselayers have been the most consistently-used things in my winter riding wardrobe. (Before you give me quizzical looks, I moved to AZ from Ohio, and would ride in winter provided it was above freezing and not too windy.) I liked layering a wool base layer, and a long-sleeve jersey under a jacket (fleece-lined with an outer shell). I also have a windbreaker-type jacket. Arm warmers are also nice--instant sleeves, and not terribly expensive. (Sometimes I'll layer arm warmers under a long-sleeve jersey.) Shoe or toe covers are also cheap. Wool socks.

    You don't necessarily need cycling-specific stuff. Check thrift stores for lightweight (all wool!) sweaters, just make sure they're soft enough that you'd want to wear them next to your skin. My preferred tights are running tights. (I actually prefer running tights because of the lack of chamois, so I can wear whatever shorts I want with them.)

    Oh, and a wicking sports bra if you don't have one already. I cannot tell you how much better that made my life once I switched from cotton.
    Last edited by Owlie; 11-03-2013 at 08:54 PM.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Concord, MA
    Posts
    13,394
    2015 Trek Silque SSL
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    2011 Guru Praemio
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    251
    I think the key, as others have said, is to have a variety that you can mix and match for different conditions.

    Top half of the body:
    - Pretty inexpensive, I like the non-wool base layer that runners wear. I have one that is thinner and one that is thicker. I'm allergic to wool.
    - A wind-stopping jacket (for cold temps, under 45 or so)
    - Long-sleeved jerseys (for warmer temps, above 50)
    - Long-sleeved, fleece-lined jersey/jacket (in between)
    - Arm warmers to use alone on warmer days with a regular jersey or to layer for cooler temps

    Bottom half:
    - Knickers (for the warmer end of the winter spectrum)
    - Leg warmers (for below 50)
    - Tights (for below 40 or so)
    (I personally like the tights with a chamois and wind-blocking front, but these can get pricy - as others have said, there are lots of options with tights, some less expensive.)

    Hands:
    - Thinner full-finger gloves (for warmer temps)
    - Wind-blocking full-finger gloves (for those cold to cool 40's)
    - Lobster claws (for really cold)

    Feet:
    - Thick socks (wool, as mentioned above if you can wear wool)
    - Toe warmers for the warmer temps
    - Shoe covers (neoprene) for the colder temps

    Head and neck:
    - Ear warmers for warmer temps
    - Scull cap for really cold (it has to be really cold for me to cover my whole head - like below freezing)
    - Balaklava for really cold
    - Neck warmer for relatively cold

    I once heard and adhere to this tenet: Your first thought when you start riding ought to be, "I should put on one more layer". You don't want to be thinking that you need multiple extra layers, but if you're just cold enough to think you need one more layer, then you are properly dressed for when you heat up and start sweating.

    As noted above, each person is different and wind plays a huge role in how you dress. It can be 50 and windy and you will dress like it's 35 or 50 and calm and dress like it's 60. I note in my riding log what the conditions were, what I wear and how I felt and that helps for future rides.
    The bicycle has done more for the emancipation of women than anything else in the world. ~ Susan B. Anthony

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Western Canada-prairies, mountain & ocean
    Posts
    6,984
    I ride up to 15 km. in very cold winter temp. But more typically, it's 8 km. In -10 to -25 degrees C.

    I've never worn toe warmers. Nor neoprene booties. But I do wear thickish socks in mountain bike shoes. Other people wear boots and slug along slowly.
    Winter riding means you tend to cycle slower because of the cold, ice, snow..

    I wear the same winter jacket that I wear for walking or light/not too cold snowshoeing. It is not a cycling jacket at all when it gets very cold. The jacket has pit arm zippers. I prefer in very cold winter temp....this is enough to give you frostbite in the face, to have a jacket that covers part of my bum. Not as short as my cycling jackets.

    I have to wear lobster claw winter cycling mitts when it gets very cold.

    Wind most definitely affects your body temp. I wear a very light headband over my ears under my helmet. I have a 2nd helmet that has less vents. I've never had the need for a skullcap under helmet.

    I've never invested in leg warmers...but if it works, great. I wear light (summer weight) rain pants on top of leggings for double layering + some snow repellency. It works and I don't overheat.

    Keep it simple, cheap but in layers. And try to avoid wearing 100% cotton against your body. Something with polyester or polyester-blend, if it isn't wool for breathability /wicking. You don't need to invest in ton of expensive clothing. After all, winter is messy, slushy, etc.
    Last edited by shootingstar; 11-04-2013 at 03:29 AM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    northern Virginia
    Posts
    5,897
    More on layering -- I did a ride recently where temps were in the low 40s at the start, with the sun obscured by clouds. I wore a long sleeved wool base layer and then two long sleeved cycling jerseys over it. Then I wore a windbreaker (snug fitting, so it doesn't puff up with air as I ride), with a sleeveless wind vest over that. None of the layers was at all heavy or fleecy or insulated. After 90 minutes or so the sun came out and things warmed up a bit, so I started to remove layers. I ended the ride wearing the wool top and one jersey, plus the vest.

    Depending on the conditions, a short-sleeved jersey over a long-sleeved top or a tank top under a long-sleeved top can be comfortable. With layers, you can get double-duty out of clothes that you would normally wear in warmer temps.

    You might find that you need an additional bike bag to help carry the layers as you remove them. I bought a small handlebar bag for this purpose.

    For hands and feet, make sure your gloves/shoes/socks etc are not too tight. Restricting blood flow will make your extremities colder.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Concord, MA
    Posts
    13,394
    Try some merino wool. A lot of people say they are allergic to wool , when really, it just makes them itchy. Merino, especially the lighter weight stuff is soft and cuddly.
    2015 Trek Silque SSL
    Specialized Oura

    2011 Guru Praemio
    Specialized Oura
    2017 Specialized Ariel Sport

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    251
    Quote Originally Posted by Crankin View Post
    Try some merino wool. A lot of people say they are allergic to wool , when really, it just makes them itchy. Merino, especially the lighter weight stuff is soft and cuddly.
    Unfortunately, I have a true allergy to wool, per a skin prick test. This isn't "it's itchy", like a sensitivity, but a real allergy (hives, swelling). It's the lanolin the wool. For those that have a sensitivity or real allergy, there are plenty of synthetic options out there. I personally like to keep everything as natural as possible, but in this case, can't.
    The bicycle has done more for the emancipation of women than anything else in the world. ~ Susan B. Anthony

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    For those who do need the synthetics, I'd recommend polypropylene WAY before polyester. Polyester doesn't wick sweat at all, plus it gets pretty staticky.

    Velo has a good list, but it's a long one. I think the top two investments for someone starting off and building their wardrobe would be a wind blocking jacket or vest, and a good pair of well-fitting gloves with wind blocking on the back and grippers on the fingers and palms. That last is important ... you really don't want to not be able to hold onto your brake levers when your hands are stiff anyway.

    Most other things you can either transfer gear from other sports/walks of life (like warm tights worn over your cycling shorts, base layers on top, a lightweight knit cap or balaclava for under your helmet), or use a low-rent solution until you can afford the real thing (like plastic produce bags between your socks and shoes, which really work amazingly well in place of shoe covers or winter boots).
    Last edited by OakLeaf; 11-04-2013 at 10:02 AM.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

 

 

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