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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
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    14,498
    Quote Originally Posted by rebeccaC View Post
    just a cable and housing change.
    YMMV, but IME there's not much "just" about replacing cable housing.

    When you cut cable housing you have to (1) make sure you don't crimp the housing when you cut it, (2) use a smooth punch to open up the hole when you inevitably DO crimp the housing, and (3) file all the burrs off the cut end(s) so they don't catch and fray your cable.

    A good housing cutter that will HELP cut without crimping, but not guarantee it, is like $50 (more than the cassette tool and chain whip put together), and will get very little use unless you've got a stable of bikes that all get ridden frequently. You will also want a small round file to get the inside surface, plus ideally a flat one also to get the outside and the edge most efficiently, though you can do it all with the round one - might or might not be something already in your toolbox.

    Then you have to re-tape your handlebars. Ugh. I know some people here can do that all day, but I don't get enough practice, and I always wind up re-doing it six or seven times a side before I can get it smooth, and there's usually still a lump at the bar end. Actually the last time the shop did it for me, the mechanic's 11-year-old daughter did it flawlessly while I watched. SHE gets to practice on other people's bikes.

    Sizing and routing the housing isn't a big deal - important for safety, but easy - but cutting it, I still say is a PITA and well worth whatever the shop charges to do it, which is usually minimal.
    Last edited by OakLeaf; 06-05-2013 at 02:30 AM.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Traveling Nomad
    Posts
    6,763
    Thanks for all the feedback, ladies. I would definitely have the shop do the brake removal if I decide to do that. It's not worth the risk of screwing that up nor paying for a special tool.

    As for the cassette change, I have no problem going with 105 but am also inclined to go with the 12-28 Ultegra instead, all other things being equal, as that lower gear can only help, and it's well worth $20 extra to me if that's all it is. But if I would have to change the derailleur for a 28 but not a 27, then I'd go with the 105 12-27 instead to keep it simpler and less expensive. I still haven't gotten around to asking DH if he brought his tools to change cassettes with us here; I know he has done it in the past as I bought a new cassette for my Titus in the past, and he changed it.

    I don't have any extra chain links as I bought this bike on Ebay so did not shorten the chain, so that will be a factor as well. Need to discuss all this with DH as he does most of the bike work in this househould.

    [Trisk, as an aside, the Pilot fits me extremely well! My Aegis Swift had a 75 degree ST, and I did fine with that from a fit perspective. The problem with that bike was because it had a flat top tube, I had zero standover -- I mean nothing, the TT was jammed up into my crotch. And even with the 650c wheels, since the TT was so short, I had lots of toe overlap. The Pilot has the sloping top tube, so the 47cm size gives me lots of standover and no toe overlap (or if there is any, it's extremely slight). And it came with the setback seatpost I need. I absolutely love the bike (and it was a great deal on ebay for full carbon/Ultegra, which is why I decided to take the risk of getting it), but the gearing is not as low as what I'm used to, and I don't have my Friday here to ride the steep hills. I could ride my MTB, but with Barry on his Trek, I'd be eating his dust even more than I do on a road bike! I *thought* Kansas was flat, but not this part of it!]

    Thanks again! I'll follow up and let everyone know what I end up doing.
    Emily

    2011 Jamis Dakar XC "Toto" - Selle Italia Ldy Gel Flow
    2007 Trek Pilot 5.0 WSD "Gloria" - Selle Italia Diva Gel Flow
    2004 Bike Friday Petite Pocket Crusoe - Selle Italia Diva Gel Flow

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    perpetual traveler
    Posts
    1,267
    I have an 11-28 105 cassette on the rear (10 speed). That is another option to consider.
    Trek Madone 4.7 WSD
    Cannondale Quick4
    1969 Schwinn Collegiate, original owner
    Terry Classic


    Richard Feynman: “The first principle is that you must not fool yourself and you are the easiest person to fool.”

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Traveling Nomad
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    6,763
    Quote Originally Posted by goldfinch View Post
    I have an 11-28 105 cassette on the rear (10 speed). That is another option to consider.
    Yes, I actually misspoke above, goldfinch. The Ultegra 10 speed cassettes are 11-28 or 12-30.

    I asked DH, and he does not have a cassette tool or chain whip here, so when I get a chance to take the bike in, I will likely just ask the shop for an estimate to do the work and provide the cassette. From the research I've done, if I have the medium-cage rear derailleur, I could use the 12-30, which I'd prefer as it would give me a 27 and 30t ring, two additional gears. This would be great when I'm riding in the middle chainring in front, which is most of the time. I hit that 25t cog far too early since I'm used to bikes with more easy gears and am a spinner, not a masher. I'd need my granny chainring a lot less with a 12-30 than with a 12-25. But I'll settle for an 11-28 if that's all that will work without a derailleur change. I looked at my derailleur, and comparing it to photos on ebay, I think it's gotta be at least a medium cage, if not a long. It looks much longer than the short-cage.

    We shall see!
    Emily

    2011 Jamis Dakar XC "Toto" - Selle Italia Ldy Gel Flow
    2007 Trek Pilot 5.0 WSD "Gloria" - Selle Italia Diva Gel Flow
    2004 Bike Friday Petite Pocket Crusoe - Selle Italia Diva Gel Flow

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    california
    Posts
    1,232
    Quote Originally Posted by OakLeaf View Post
    YMMV, but IME there's not much "just" about replacing cable housing.

    When you cut cable housing you have to (1) make sure you don't crimp the housing when you cut it, (2) use a smooth punch to open up the hole when you inevitably DO crimp the housing, and (3) file all the burrs off the cut end(s) so they don't catch and fray your cable.
    Oak, I use a dremel with a cutoff wheel on both cable and housing. The dremel also has a thousand other uses unlike a park, felco, pedros etc. cutter. Eye protection, a steady hand, some tape on the cable and a piece of old cable in the housing where you cut makes it fast and easy to get a clean square cut.
    Last edited by rebeccaC; 06-06-2013 at 05:05 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
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    14,498
    That's a great idea. I will definitely do that next time. (One of the few things DH and I *don't* have in our toolbox, but a good addition.) Thanks!
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    1,033
    LOL I was just wondering that when I saw your quote! I was even thinking if you already had a small scroll saw or something you could use that too. Heck wouldn't a fine tooth hack saw work?

    Quote Originally Posted by rebeccaC View Post
    Oak, I use a dremel with a cutoff wheel on both cable and housing. The dremel also has a thousand other uses unlike a park, felco, pedros etc. cutter. Eye protection, a steady hand, some tape on the cable and a piece of old cable in the housing where you cut makes it fast and easy to get a clean square cut.

 

 

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