Thanks folks :-) We didn't enjoy every step, of course, there were a lot of hot and exhausting uphills, and downhills hard enough for me to start whimpering a little to myself, but we stopped enough at every photo op to get our breath back, regroup, chat and feel happy again. And our "guide" (not an official guide, a friend and colleague who knows the area very well) would natter on in pseudo-German, pseudo-French, pseudo Mid-Norwegian dialects or pseudo-American at the drop of a hat... hilarious. And since you end up with only the photos and fading memories - you might as well make'em good :-)