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Thread: New chain

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    194
    If I would "spin" more while riding the chain has less load, and would last longer. Unfortunatley Mastering the art of spinning so far has eluded me....I'm terrible at it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    That's pretty much right at the chain life I get, even when I take good care of them. Much over 2500 miles and I'll be pushing it, and I typically get more miles out of my chains than most of my riding buddies do. 1500-2000 miles isn't uncommon. And yeah, although the tools they sell measure wear along the length of the chain, lateral slop is just as important.

    Did they give you the old chain back? Play around with them until you can feel the difference. Set your old chain on the garage floor, plates vertical, and use the finger and thumb of one hand to stretch it taut while you wiggle the middle part side to side. Then wiggle your the top part new chain around (between the cassette and the front derailleur, NOT between the rear derailleur and the chainring, since the RD springs will add to the movement). You should be able to see and feel the difference very easily ... wear will become apparent long before it's actually time to replace a chain, and I can pretty much guarantee a chain with 4000K will have noticeable wear.

    The more diligent you are about keeping your chain (1) maintained and (2) replaced when it's worn, the longer your sprockets will last. HOWEVER, you'll need to replace your cassette (rear gearbox) as a unit, even though it'll be likely that only two or three of the sprockets will really need replacement. Back in freewheel days you could buy individual sprockets, but not any more - I'm sure you can find cassette sprockets in odd sizes at swapmeets, but the sizes that will need replacing most often will be the ones in shortest supply. As far as front sprockets, they're called chainrings, and they typically last longer.

    Mashing vs. spinning might make some difference, but not nearly as much as maintenance, and honestly although some people here have posted different experiences, I think your chain life has been good.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    2,698
    I wish I was getting that much life out of my chains! Depending on the bike, I get 1000-1500 miles. My commuter is lucky to see 1000 miles per chain, given the crap that I ride through. But I'd rather replace chains frequently than need new chainrings and cassettes because everything starts skipping around.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Columbia, MO
    Posts
    2,041
    Quote Originally Posted by Becky View Post
    But I'd rather replace chains frequently than need new chainrings and cassettes because everything starts skipping around.
    Right, plus a cassette is more expensive and trouble to replace than a chain.
    I also get about 1500 miles to a chain, less in the winter, and I clean it often. My mechanic was impressed at how many miles I got out of my cassette given the conditions I ride in.
    2009 Trek 7.2FX WSD, brooks Champion Flyer S, commuter bike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    507
    Invest in a chain measuring tool (it's not expensive). It hooks into the links of the chain and will tell you accurantly about how slack the chain is. I have never heard in any bike shop or bike manual about pullng the chain in a bow shape. Normally you use the tool.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    All the mechanics I know check lateral slop as well as linear. Wear on the pins and plates isn't necessarily even in all directions, and either way will tear up your drivetrain.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

 

 

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