Ooh ooh...I wish this bike had been around for 2011, when I got my Redline Conquest. I would kill for disc brakes on a CX bike (the low-rent cantilever brakes on my bike are nearly worthless). And if I could only have one bike, it would be CX.
Ooh ooh...I wish this bike had been around for 2011, when I got my Redline Conquest. I would kill for disc brakes on a CX bike (the low-rent cantilever brakes on my bike are nearly worthless). And if I could only have one bike, it would be CX.
Kirsten
run/bike log
zoomylicious
'11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
'12 Salsa Mukluk 3
'14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2
Hello, zoom-zoom! Thanks for the bike recommendation. Is there anything in particular that would make the Redline Conquest stand out over the other bikes previously mentioned? I read into it but so far can't tell what makes one bike better than the next for my needs.
I love mine--it is so comfortable on so many types of terrain and so much fun to ride! I seem to recall in another thread that you're a hair shorter than I am (I'm just under 5'4"). It would probably be a good fit for you in the 44. Another one to consider is one of Ridley's CX bikes. They seem to really do a good job with small geometry--as small as a 41. A friend of mine is maybe 5'1" and has their X-Bow (I think that's the model). It fits her tiny self really well. I echo the recommendation for the Surly Cross-Check, too. That also comes in a pretty small size...I think a 42.
I personally recommend drop bars, too. I wouldn't like flat bars on anything other than a mountain bike (even then I need to have the Ergon flat grips, or else I get sore and numb hands). I definitely like having multiple hand positions available for variety. It keeps pressure from being concentrated on the same parts of your hands all the time.
Kirsten
run/bike log
zoomylicious
'11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
'12 Salsa Mukluk 3
'14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2
Oh, I see! I've been having problems with my flat bars, so I'll definitely see about drop bars.
It seems like a call around to some bike shops about test rides is in order once I get a tad bit more research under my belt!
I don't suppose there's a type of bar that's a mix, eh? :S Flatbars and drop bars all in one....? Or maybe not? I'd thought I'd seen a picture, but I may be confused as to what I'm looking at. (You can tell I'm such a newb..!)
The problem I've been having with my flat bars is simply that my hands hurt with all the pressure placed on them... but as discussed in another thread, it might be because the stem (is that the right word? oh gosh) is simply too short and won't adjust, so I have to lean all of my weight onto them. The problem might just be me (and the bike), not the bars!
Last edited by Swan; 10-18-2012 at 07:39 PM.
Ooh, are you wearing padded gloves? I can't ride comfortably without gloves with some gel padding in the palms. Plus they protect my hands when (notice I didn't say if, heh) I fall.
Kirsten
run/bike log
zoomylicious
'11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
'12 Salsa Mukluk 3
'14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2
I don't have riding-specific gloves since we don't have a local bike store that is closer than an hour's drive away (and our Walmart doesn't carry riding-specific anything either, aside from helmets!), but I'm definitely looking to get some very soon. They seem to be able to make all the difference in the world if testimonials are anything to go by.
I ride in alot of what you do. I love my old style hard tail MTB I bought used. I put a set of touring bars on it and some cross breed slick tires with a edge of nobbies. The poor bike is looking vary Fred and one of the nicest rides. You do not always need to buy new. recycling works out great!
The touring bars fit on with out a need to change out levers also. On the flat bars my hands where killing me, no longer!
+100 on this. There are so many issues that can cause painful hands that it can take much longer, and perhaps cause unnecessary expenditures, to solve on your own. Changing something in one place effects other things and so forth. I learned the hard way that in the long-term, at least with my specific fit issues, it is far more better to work with an experienced bike fitter at the right bike shop from the get-go. There is certainly nothing wrong with experimenting on your current bike, just be aware that it may be more complicated.
Welcome to TE, and congratulations on getting out there and riding![]()
I hear you all on the fitting. I've been calling around to (not so local...) bike shops this morning to ask about fittings, and I'm glad I called because the two closest to me don't offer them! Yikes! I'll hold off on the fitting until I decide which bike to bring home, though![]()
I'd like to put the cap on the bike itself at around $1,500 to allow wriggle room for added costs (like the fitting, a saddle, gear, and apparel) in an overall $3,000 budget. It might be a stingy sum in the cyclist world, but it suits me all right.
Last edited by Swan; 10-19-2012 at 09:01 AM.
Another budget-friendly option to consider:
http://www.rei.com/product/807245/no...fari-bike-2013
I have an older version of this bike and love it as an all-around bike. This newer version can be upgraded with disc brakes.
(Although I just realized the REI closest to you is in Georgia, which makes test riding a bit of a logistical challenge).
Some fitters will fit you to specific measurements ahead of time, giving you suggestions on which bikes will fit you best, and then you take those measurements into the LBS. Ideally, this is someone who is not affiliated with a bike shop, so you're just paying for the service, and the fitter doesn't also get a commission from what they're trying to sell you. Usually, included in the cost is a return visit once you have bought the bike to make all the right adjustments.
Might be something to think about!
"Susie" - 2012 Specialized Ruby Apex, not pink/Selle SMP Lite 209