Cassettes explained please

[OakLeaf]

There's definitely a difference between my 25 and my 27. I first put on the 27 the year I did Columbus Fall Challenge, and I really think I would've been suffering on that ride without it.

The difference would be somewhat smaller between 28 and 30, but I'd think you'd still notice it on the steepest hills where you'd be using your lowest gear.


I'm not sure you'd really want to swap out the single cog. Whatever your jump is now (whether 24 to 28 or 25 to 28), adding two teeth to it would make it an ENORMOUS jump, which not only would be hard on your legs, but your RD as well. I can't imagine smooth shifting over a difference of 5 or 6 teeth, especially downshifting when you're really going to be wanting to preserve momentum. Since you'll have the cassette off anyway, you'll have to have bought both cassettes, and you'll have to adjust the B-screw, what is the advantage to swapping only the cog vs. the whole cassette?

[indysteel]

It appears that there is a 12-30 Ultegra cassette. If you're at all concerned, why not just stick with the same gearing you're currently running?

[SFLiz]

It appears that there is a 12-30 Ultegra cassette. If you're at all concerned, why not just stick with the same gearing you're currently running?

I like to go fast; and I want to go faster.

[indysteel]

A 12-30 isn't going to slow you down appreciably IMO. On the other end of the spectrum, the 11-28 only offers one more "big" gear than your 12-30. Do you find yourself running out of big gears as it is with your current set up? Admittedly, I have run out of gears with my set up, but that's partly a function of my compact crank, not just my cassette. Plus, it generally only happens on downhills. So, I just coast; it's not a big deal since I'm not racing anybody.

[SFLiz]

I'm not sure you'd really want to swap out the single cog. Whatever your jump is now (whether 24 to 28 or 25 to 28), adding two teeth to it would make it an ENORMOUS jump, which not only would be hard on your legs, but your RD as well. I can't imagine smooth shifting over a difference of 5 or 6 teeth, especially downshifting when you're really going to be wanting to preserve momentum. Since you'll have the cassette off anyway, you'll have to have bought both cassettes, and you'll have to adjust the B-screw, what is the advantage to swapping only the cog vs. the whole cassette?

Yup, you're absolutely right OakLeak - excellent point; thanks. I'm learning. It'll be too big of a jump from 24 to 30.

New cassette: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28
Old cassette: 12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,27,30

Again, the members of this forum make up a wealth of knowledge. Thanks, OakLeaf and Indysteel. I'm going to see how this cassette feels; will let you know how it goes.

[SFLiz]

The difference would be somewhat smaller between 28 and 30, but I'd think you'd still notice it on the steepest hills where you'd be using your lowest gear.

Well, you two wise ones, you were right. Parts got delivered earlier than I expected yesterday so I swapped it out and was able to sneak a ride in before dark last night. I took to the steepest local climb I know of near me. Oy - I noticed the change, Ladies. I've taken one of the climbs before. It's a 19% grade. I used it to do four hill repeats while trying out bikes from the LBS. All trials I stayed seated. This time around I had to get up on the pedals. Then I tried a hill I haven't tried before. It's easily over 20% grade but since I didn't look down at my Garmin to check the grade I can't say what it is, and I didn't come through on Strava. I didn't finish it because I felt like I was going to fall backwards while I started the climb. I should have leaned forward but this was my first time off this hill. With my feet clipped in, I started feeling like my front wheel was lifting so I snapped off before I cracked my head and/or my Rubes.

Verdict - I felt the difference. Thanks to you both for your advice. That 11 tooth gear is great and it's not worth the loss of climbing confidence!