Setting a budget

[Tri Girl]

First- welcome to TE. This place was a great source of information and support when I came here 6 years ago.

Great suggestions have already been given. KiwiStoker hit it on the head what to splurge for and what to skimp on.

I will say, tho, that you don't have to wear a cycling jersey. I ride in regular moisture wicking shirts. I use the same shirts for running as I do riding since I didn't want to have two sets of workout clothes (that's just silly and a waste). I buy nice shirts that will last a long time. To carry food on the bike, I have a bento box on my top tube for food on long rides and I usually wear my Camelbak in summer (since my bike is small and I only have one bottle cage on the frame) so I can put extra food in my Camelbak. You can skimp there for sure.

Do NOT skimp on the shorts. You'll have to try on a dozen before you find on that fits your body. It should fit snug in the crotch (if it is loose you will have more trouble with saddle sores and such).

Good luck finding a bike. SO exciting to go shopping for that first one (and every one thereafter). Woot!

[goldfinch]

There are a number of brands of road bikes that should fit you. The Ruby is a good choice. Felt and Jamis also make bikes that work for the height challenged and can be a good value. I recommend working with a bike shop that understands your issues and doesn't just try to force you into something that they might have on the floor for sale. I am shorter than you and also have neck issues. I ride a Trek Madone. My handlebars are about the same level as the seat.

[tzvia]

I would think that any lingering neck issues should be the first thing on the list to address. Range of motion issues? Pain? Issues with vibrations or pounding, holding your head UP while riding a road bike with 'drop bars'?

Some bikes are designed with a nod to more comfort, with a taller head tube (the tube the front fork attaches to) which puts the bars in a higher position, and tube types/shapes that are geared for compliance and shock dissipation. 'Racers' like a stiff frame to transmit all their movements into forward motion but those stiff frames can ride harsh.

Aluminum bikes tend to transmit road vibrations and ride 'harsher' than carbon fiber but cost less. The Specialized Dolce Comp and Elite have 'zertz' vibration dampeners in the fork and frame that can take a bit of the edge off that but if you can get carbon fiber into your budget it would be even better. Looking for last year's model (often times just a color change or small change to components) can net you some savings, but it's tough finding dealers with small bikes to begin with.

I'm 5'1 with 27.5" inseam and rode a 48cm Ruby but found the 44cm a much better fit. If you can, find a dealer with small bikes in stock to try out. I had to go to a number of dealers just to find one bike to try. It can be frustrating.

As was stated already, the stiffer the better for shoes. You may want to go with flat pedals or clipless 'SPD' (mountain bike type) pedals and use MTB shoes if you want walk-ability. 'Road' shoes aren't very easy to walk in. As for shorts and shirts, I always wait for sales and found a few brands I like and stick with. Helmets- get one that fits properly, they all have to meet the same safety standards. You get a helmet with better air venting (usually) and lighter weight as the price goes up.

Then the little bits. Multitool, tire 'irons' (to remove the tire), a couple spare tubes, seat bag, on-the-bike pump, floor pump. Get a few tube 'repair kits' and have the LBS show you how to patch a tube (don't get the pre-glued patches, they suck, get the patch kit with the tube of glue and sandpaper). It's best to learn before you have a flat, how to remove the tube, find the hole, patch and remount the tire and inflate and put it back on the bike. Beats sitting on the side of the road, waiting for a sag wagon.

[Chicken Little]

You can do it for $1000. Buy used- it might take a bit to find the bike that fits, but ease into it. You might not like it. Or you might and you can trade up.

[luvmyguys]

You can do it for $1000. Buy used- it might take a bit to find the bike that fits, but ease into it. You might not like it. Or you might and you can trade up.

I think this is what makes me nervous about the higher priced bikes. I want to make sure I like it before I drop a lot of money. I think I'm willing to trade up later, if needed. But I want to buy enough to prevent sabotaging my "like" from the get-go.

[Owlie]

It will save you money in the long run to buy a nice bike from the get-go. (Ask me how I know!)

[luvmyguys]

Thanks for the great advice, everyone!

Someone mentioned glasses - I wear prescription lenses. I used to work in industry and I think I remember remember where to get safety glasses, but what are the other options for cycling?

I specifically wanted to address this one:

I would think that any lingering neck issues should be the first thing on the list to address. Range of motion issues? Pain? Issues with vibrations or pounding, holding your head UP while riding a road bike with 'drop bars'?

Neck is stable at this point, and range of motion is pretty much back to normal. This was already a weak point in my neck and I was in karate and took a hard blow to the head, causing a whiplash effect. The result was Peyton Manning's injury - pretty much exactly (weak left arm with numbness down to my index finger). I was able to get away without the fusion, fortunately. He went in and removed the problem parts of the disk, but left enough there to avoid the fusion.

The doctor didn't put any specific limitations on me (although he did advise no more high impact contact sports when I asked how I could avoid being back in his office). Knowing some of what contributed to it, I've put limits on myself. No high impact sports (even running), little to no weight on the shoulders (no heavy backpacks and I don't even carry a shoulder-strap purse any longer), and make sure I'm wearing a good supportive bra (chest size contributed to the strain on the neck). Oh - and posture, posture, posture. I feel the nerve getting twitchy if I'm in a twisted or off balance position for too long (off balance from side to side). At this point, I don't think the positioning on a bike would be an issue, as the spine is not continually twisted to right or left. So far in spin, as long as I'm careful with keeping my shoulders down and elbows relaxed, I haven't had a problem.

Part of any conditioning needs to be strengthening the muscles in the neck, shoulders, and back as well.

Thanks for your advice! I clipped most of the rest of it, but I did appreciate the advice on materials and how they absorb the road vibrations.