Thinking of a road bike, steel? Touring?

[snyderd25]

I have elbow issues too... I know carbon absorbs some shock. I steel better?

[OakLeaf]

In very broad terms, steel can absorb more shock than carbon, but it's also less tuneable, so that it can wind up flexing where you don't want it to.

That's an incredibly broad statement and sure to be inaccurate for particular frames. Each material has a range and there's a lot of overlap. Very much of compliance (shock absorption, flexiness, power transfer, liveliness) depends on the frame construction - specific materials, the way they're put together, and geometry.

Very much of issues that are specific to you will depend on fit, too, and I'm still going to say that that's the #1 consideration. The most compliant frame in the world is still capable of transmitting shock in the wrong direction to a rider who doesn't fit on it. Your body has a great ability to absorb shock in the direction the joints naturally work. It's when fit is off and forces get transmitted across joints instead of through them where the muscles can do their job, that we wind up with problems.

[Sky King]

I have elbow issues too... I know carbon absorbs some shock. I steel better?

Remember a wider tire is going to assist with absorbing road vibration. Consider going with at least a 28 if you are riding a 700C tire.

Also if elbow problems are severe don't rule out a slightly more upright riding position with an albatross or a moustache bar. One of my riding partners has rods in her back and rides a LHT with Albatross bars, she zips along a nice pace, even sitting more upright. Another riding partner is missing a finger and the moustache bars give her a better hand position that doesn't put pressure on her knuckle.

[molasses85]

Wow! Thanks for all the input and shopping well wishes! There's so much to think about!

Sorry if my responses don't include quotes, being a newbie I might mess it up!

tiva, glad you like your Synapse. I know I need to try it again on a little more rough pavement because it might not take a 28 tire as Sky King mentioned. To add, the nice part is with that one I didn't feel any pressure on the nose of the saddle like the others.

Oakleaf, I love your description of how a good fit and joints work the right way. Thankfully my elbow isn't too severe, it will take time though.

I talked with an owner of a local LBS who happens to know someone in the family. He had some concerns on the reach of the LHT with drop bars (flat bars better). He is short and has custom bikes so he understands my size issues (I'm 5'0"). He also was concerned with what I want and the gearing with the 26" wheels (I don't remember exactly, I'll clarify with him).

We talked about the Giant Dash, which has a carbon seatpost and fork which may help with vibrations. It has a high standover but I do the tilt thing at a stop. We had me check out a similarly sized bike and flatfooted was a no go but with the tilt it worked. The Dash comes with 25c tires but was not in stock to try out.

Being still new I'm not crazy about spending the money and building something like a LHT without knowing how it would feel, yet with my size issues it's hard to find one in stock!

It's so nice to see how you and your friends make things work, I know I'll get there, especially with all this help!

[Trek420]

I talked with an owner of a local LBS who happens to know someone in the family. He had some concerns on the reach of the LHT with drop bars (flat bars better). He is short and has custom bikes so he understands my size issues (I'm 5'0"). He also was concerned with what I want and the gearing with the 26" wheels (I don't remember exactly, I'll clarify with him).

I'm 4'11. My custom steel road bike's a 47 cm. I test rode the LHT in a 42 cm. Standover height was great! Read the ride report here:

http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showt...ighlight=surly

[Kiwi Stoker]

I've got to chime in here about carbon.
Our tandem AL had a steel fork- DH hated it. Lots of vibrations.

We swapped in a carbon fork and he couldn't believe how much it changed.

I don't think you should discount carbon totally- the build and geometry of the bike does affect vibration as well.

Thgere's other things that can help vibration- gloves, gel bar tape, carbon handlebars, having flatter tops and the shape. Also riding position (being more upright so less weight on the hands).

I guess it's a case ot try, try try and don't discount something because it might just work for you.

[Owlie]

Agreed. My Al bike isn't great, but I've ridden an aluminum bike that felt much better than the single carbon bike I've tried. I've never ridden steel (no one has my size!), but they're supposed to be relatively comfortably (Jamis, Surly).

Also, +1 on the fit. I think the carbon bike was a size too big (also a unisex bike so somewhat overbuilt for my weight), and now that my Giant is more properly fitted, it feels loads better.

[Savra]

Not too much to add except to say I'm also pretty short and certainly have short arms but have a LHT. It is the smallest frame they have - (my LBS worked closely with Surly and they all decided smallest was better even though I normally ride around a 48 or 50). The reach on my LHT is better than my road bike - which is WSF. With a Brookes Saddles it is the most comfortable bike I've ever had and I road it across NY state (of course, I don't have a carbon bike so can't compare). The frame size comes with 26" tires and so they are normally wider than road tires.

[Hi Ho Silver]

The original poster said:
"However, considering my riding needs I wonder if I should look into specifically a steel bike instead of carbon. I have tennis elbow from my music hobby and sometimes carpal tunnel (I'm so glad for those Ergon grips)."

I know that a lot of people are going to recommend steel bikes - the "steel is real" belief is alive and well. But my personal experience differs.

I have a CrMo steel road bike with a steel fork. It is roughly equivalent to Surly bikes in quality. The bike has 23mm wide tires on it. I determined my personal "optimal" tire pressures by slowly increasing the psi in each tire until the vibration and jolts were definitely uncomfortable. I found that the highest pressures I can use are 72psi (front) & 96 psi (rear). Even at these lowish pressures, the bike is sometimes uncomfortable on really rough roads.

I also have a Specialized Ruby** carbon fiber bike that has a carbon fiber fork. It too has 23mm wide tires. I can easily and comfortably ride with 95 psi (front) & 115 psi (rear) on any road. Actually, I could increase the pressures even more, but I see no point in pushing it to the edge.

So based on my experience, the Ruby's carbon fiber frame and fork absorb so much more vibration and shock versus the steel bike that I can increase the tire inflation by 20% to 30% to achieve much lower rolling resistance and, at the same time, I enjoy a much smoother ride. Poorly designed carbon fiber frames and forks may not be able to achieve this level of comfort. But those bikes marketed as "road endurance" bikes probably should be as comfy (or nearly as comfy) as my Ruby.

(Note: ** The frame and fork both have "Zertz" inserts.)