Per the CPSC: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08038.html
Per the CPSC: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml08/08038.html
"I never met a donut I didn't like" - Dave Wiens
Maybe I've watched too much Holmes on Homes - but what about asbestos? I didn't know it was used in plaster, but that's one of the places he's found it (drywall taping compound too).
Beth
So, I put the same question out on our neighborhood yahoo group (the whole neighborhood consists of garden-style condos and townhouses that were built in the '40s and renovated in the '70s when it all went condo) to find out about others' experience. So far I'm being told it's easier and less expensive to replace the trim. One person wound up removing something like 7 layers of paint, and she said it didn't really look good when she was done.
It's easy enough to replace the mouldings around the base of the walls, but looking at the trim around the doors, it all appears to be part of of the door frame, rather than just being attached to the wall around the doors. I fear this could get complicated.
I already have bought new hinges for all the doors, to replace the nasty rusted crooked painted hinges that are already there. So now I guess I need to figure out if I'm replacing all the frames or just the trim around them.
- Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
- Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
- Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle
Gone but not forgotten:
- Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
- Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles
Seems to me, it's easier to just replace the trim around the doors. If you replace the frames, won't you have to re-hang the doors, which could be a PITA (unless they're crooked and you want them straight).
Trim comes pre-primed which will help with the painting.![]()
Beth
But when I look at it, it appears the trim is part of the frame, so I don't know if it can be replaced without replacing the whole frame.
Either way, the doors are coming off so the hinges can be replaced. Some of the doors are crooked, and I don't know how much work it will be to fix that. I haven't called the handyman in to look at it yet.
- Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
- Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
- Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle
Gone but not forgotten:
- Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
- Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles
OK I've been able to look at this link now from my home computer. For some reason I could not access the CPSC site from work.
It is worth noting that the CPSC press release is dated 2007. Certainly there have been a lot of technological advances across the board since then. Making only generalized statements, the CPSC does not identify the "unreliable" kits, nor does it discuss the difference between detecting lead in paint vs any lead at all.
The current EPA regulations went into effect in 2008. The EPA has gone so far as to specify (Aug. 2011) 3 home lead test kits that are in fact 95% reliable, and have charged all EPA certified contractors with the task of using these very same kits to test for the presence of lead paint prior to starting any renovations that would disturb said lead paint.
http://www.epa.gov/oppt/lead/pubs/testkit.htm
http://www.epa.gov/oppt/lead/pubs/testkitfactsheet.pdf
One of the 3 kits is only available to contractors licensed in the state of Mass. The other two are readily available, and not too expesive. The 3M kit runs around $25, for 8 tests at Home Depot.
If you live in an older house, built before 1978, and you are contemplating stripping paint by any means I would urge you to use one of these test kits to ascertain if you do in fact have lead paint present. If you determine no lead is present, by all means go ahead and proceed with your plans.
But if the test does indicate lead, please, please do not mess with this stuff. Hire a qualified contractor who can do the job safely without risk to himself, to you, your family, and even to your neighbors.
Again, I refer you to the Renovate Right publication issued by the EPA which goes into more detail about which homes are likely to contain lead paint (basically the older the home, the greater the liklihood).
Consider that 87% of homes built before 1940 are likely to have lead paint present.
For homes built between 1940-1960 that risk drops to 69%
And it falls to 24% for homes built between 1960 and 1978.
http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovaterightbrochure.pdf
In 1978 it became illegal to sell lead based paint. It was not illegal to use the lead paint that a painter or other contractor might already have stockpiled in his warehouse.
It goes without saying that ultimately you could be held responsible and liable for the safety of all of the other players should a lead exposure be traced back to your project. Granted, it's a long shot, but still you want to do the right thing.
OK, I'm off the soap box now. Please be careful out there.
Last edited by withm; 03-03-2012 at 01:31 PM.