Good point. I did a quick web search and apparently there are just a few mfgrs like, Avid, that make an aluminum adjuister. Seems putting something inline for brakes raises the risk (lawsuit) factor for failure due to the amount of pull required for brakes versus derailleurs.
On my bikes, the rear has an adjuster at the housing end just behind the seat post for fine tuning (mtbs converted to drop style bars). The front has no adjusters. I set new pads on the slightly close side which seems to hold up fine through the life of the brake pad. Takes a bit more work on initial pad installation, but works out.
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Thread: V-brakes and drop bars
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02-05-2012, 07:11 AM #1
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'89 Bridgestone Radac Dura-Ace | Specialized Ruby, 143
'92 Bridgestone MB-1 | Specialized Ruby, 143
'92 Bridgestone MB-1.2 (balloon tire bike) | Specialized Ruby, 143
'93 Bridgestone MB-5 (my SUB*) | Specialized Lithia, 143
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02-05-2012, 07:31 PM #2
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Cable adjusting noodle
I think I'm going to check out the cost of the v-brake noodle with the barrel adjuster. This will be a cost vs convenience choice.
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02-14-2012, 04:56 AM #3
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a little over $7
Ok so, I'm picturing myself at the bottom of a nice down hill in 90-100 degree heat after wearing half the rubber off my breaks and needing an adjustment. Do I really want to dig out the tools to adjust the cable pull, or do I want to just give a twist to a barrel adjuster? No contest, I ordered the Jagwire noodles with the barrel adjuster to replace the stock ones. I'll let you know how they do.
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