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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Shelbyville, KY
    Posts
    1,472

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    I have a triple Ultegra on my Orbea Diva.
    Marcie

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Columbia River Gorge
    Posts
    3,565
    To summarize what most people have said here:

    The pros of a triple nowadays pretty much comes down to having a wide range of gears (but not necessarily a lower low gear than a compact double) with less of a jump between gears.

    The pros of a double are that you don't have to lose the same lowest gear, and the shifting of the chain rings tends to be smoother with less need for tuning due to the fact that you're dealing with 2 rings instead of 3 and in addition, the distance the derailleur has to travel is less. So it's mechanically a little simpler. That and the weight issue.

    My BF does custom bike builds for a living and he still has clients that want a triple over a double. And yes they are available but sometimes hard to source. So if you really want a triple, it's possible but I wouldn't give up on the compact double idea.
    Living life like there's no tomorrow.

    http://gorgebikefitter.com/


    2007 Look Dura Ace
    2010 Custom Tonic cross with discs, SRAM
    2012 Moots YBB 2 x 10 Shimano XTR
    2014 Soma B-Side SS

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Concord, MA
    Posts
    13,394
    I have both and for the reasons that Oak described, I like my triple a lot better. I have an Ultegra triple that has never been a problem.
    I actually have 2 lower gears on my compact double than the triple (I have the mountain bike rear cassette) and I hate the jump in one particular place. I am thinking of switching out the cassette to one that has one less low gear, but will have the cog I like and am now missing. It will essentially be a compact double with the same gearing as my triple.
    2015 Trek Silque SSL
    Specialized Oura

    2011 Guru Praemio
    Specialized Oura
    2017 Specialized Ariel Sport

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    1,973
    I went from a triple to a compact double, and did not have any problems. The lowest gear is very similar to what I had on the triple.

    The only adjustment was getting used to shifting between the two front rings- which was a big jump. It just takes a little more attention to plan ahead when you're coming up on hills. And after a little experience, I didn't think about it any more.

    Sharon
    2016 Specialized Ruby Comp disc - Ruby Expert ti 155
    2010 Surly Long Haul Trucker - Jett 143

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    29
    Thanks so much everybody. You are a fantastic source of info. I am going to give the compact double a try, and if that doesn't work, I know now that it's not the end of the world.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Soquel, CA
    Posts
    192
    I have a Ruby with a compact double. I found that it did not have enough low gears to get me up the hills. (Nothing is flat in the Santa Cruz mountains.) I now have a mountain bike cassette and derailleur and I love it!

    The problem with Shimano is that they make an 11-34 or 11-36 10 speed derailleur for mountain bikes and pair it with a Shadow derailleur. Apparently this derailleur is not compatible with road bike shifters. After much searching on the Internet, I found that some people had bought the new cassette and paired it with an older Shimano Deore rear derailleur. I bought the pieces and had them installed, even though it is not to spec and bike stores don't seem to want to do this. It works fine, as long as I don't cross chain.

    Even though I now have my bike working as I want, it was a struggle. If I was to buy a new bike, I would probably get a triple - or I'd have the bike shop where I bought it install the larger cassette and derailleur before I took it home.
    2007 Ruby Comp/Specialized Dolce
    2004 Bike Friday Crusoe/Specialized Dolce

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    MS
    Posts
    220
    I wouldn't get too hung up on triple vs. double. If you feel you need that "extra" gear change the rear cassette to an 11-28.
    "Only those who dare to fail greatly can ever achieve greatly" (Robert F. Kennedy)

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Concord, MA
    Posts
    13,394
    Featuretile, I have the Deore XT 11-34 cassette on my compact double Guru and I am surprised that whoever built up your bike didn't do this as the go-to solution. My friend also has it on her Ruby Expert, and it was the first suggestion by the LBS she bought from, after she told them the regular compact double wouldn't cut it for her on the hills around here. This combination is becoming quite common here.
    While switching the rear cassette to an 11-28 on a compact might give a little relief, it definitely would give me one less lower gear than I have on my triple. I have a 27 tooth cog on my triple that I am replacing in the spring with a 28 . It's not that I really "need" it, but my knees appreciate it on a steep climb.
    I'm too old to worry about what people think about my low gears.
    When DH and I do our portion of our club's bike workshop, we always say "your most important gear is your lowest gear." Too many of these beginners are struggling because they are mashing, hurting their knees, and then giving up. We spend a good deal of the time talking about how to use your gears/shifting to your advantage.
    2015 Trek Silque SSL
    Specialized Oura

    2011 Guru Praemio
    Specialized Oura
    2017 Specialized Ariel Sport

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    So Cal.
    Posts
    501
    With a medium cage rear derailleur and a ten speed 11 to 32 mated with a compact double, your lowest gear is as low as a road triple. Better chain line, less weight, less shifting for all those 'intermediate' gears that are almost the same. All this has already been covered here. Sheldon Brown has a good gear calculator that you might want to play with to see what you are using now vs. the double.

    Shifting the front, then the back to get to these intermediate gears is a pain, it's not linear. Currently only my new 'beater' commuter has a triple, the 30lb Novara. Can't stand it, and will change it when the rear cassette is worn, probably to a 11~32 & compact double. My light weight road bike weighs half what the Novara weighs so I don't need as low a gear, so use an 11~26.
    Tzvia- rollin' slow...
    Specialized Ruby Expert/mens Bontrager Inform RXL
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    Fuji Newest 3 commuter/mens Bontrager Inform RL
    Novara E.T.A commuter/mens Bontrager Inform RL

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Posts
    257
    I assume when people refer to the jump, they are referring to shifting the chain ring/front derailleur. Is this correct or are there other jumps in the gearing. (Don't know why there would be. But must ask.)

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    Any time you shift there's a jump. It can be small (like shifting from your 11 to your 12 in back) or large (like shifting anything in the front, or like shifting from a 15 to a 17 in back - which is one particular shift that both Crankin and I find to be too big).

    To get a wide range of gears with fewer chainrings, you need a wide range in back, and that means big jumps. Just for example, a 9-speed Shimano Deore 11-34 is 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34. Now, you're talking about circumferences, basically, so a 4-tooth jump from 26 to 30 isn't as huge as it would be from 11 to 15, but it's still big. Sheldon Brown (RIP) has a handy-dandy gear calculator that can give you a better idea of the gear ratios, but you still have to do the math yourself if you want to figure RPM at any given speed from one gear to the next.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    northern california
    Posts
    1,460
    Quote Originally Posted by jusdooit View Post
    I wouldn't get too hung up on triple vs. double. If you feel you need that "extra" gear change the rear cassette to an 11-28.
    1+ on this. I've found that having a 28 tooth cog on the back goes a long way toward making up the difference between having a double or a triple on the front.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Soquel, CA
    Posts
    192
    Crankin,
    You might find this funny, but I got the 11-36 put on my bike because the 12-32 I had was not quite cutting it. There are places with 15% grade here and I was never making it to the top without walking or at least resting part way up. I would then lose most of the group, if not all. Now I can get up anything! Still not the fastest in the bunch, but I feel so much better. The 36 is only used for those really steep hills, but it's nice to know that I have it. If I lived in a flatter area, it would be quite useless, so it depends on where you live. And the bike stores here do not recommend this option. It seems that if the manufacturers are going to discontinue triples, they ought to make this option available.
    2007 Ruby Comp/Specialized Dolce
    2004 Bike Friday Crusoe/Specialized Dolce

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Concord, MA
    Posts
    13,394
    We tend to have shorter, steep climbs here in New England, as opposed to the longer 4-6% grades in the west. For instance, my driveway, which is 850 feet, is 15% at the steepest part and my street varies between 4% and 12% in about 1.4 miles. Just west of here, we have regular 12-20% climbs, and the further west or north you go, the steeper and longer they can be.
    I'm glad you found the solution. I haven't ridden my bike with the compact enough to pass final judgement. I like the feel of the shifting, right now I am being annoyed by the Frogs, which seem to unclip on their own...
    I keep saying I just need to get stronger and deal with riding in a very slightly harder gear (instead of the 16 cog), as I am not sure I want to lose my 2 lower gears. The reason I got this bike was to take on trips (it has couplers and can go in a regular sized suitcase), where we usually end of doing a lot of climbing, whether it is in the Berkshires or in Europe. If I switch to the 11-32 from the 34, to get the 16 cog, I will essentially be riding a very expensive custom steel bike with the same gears as my carbon bike with the triple. So, the jury is out.
    2015 Trek Silque SSL
    Specialized Oura

    2011 Guru Praemio
    Specialized Oura
    2017 Specialized Ariel Sport

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    29
    I went in for my bike fitting today. I brought up the subject of gearing, and after 10 minutes of persistence, it finally got through the guy's head that maybe I really did have reason for concern. We looked at my old bike and counted the cogs on the biggest sprocket: "Do you really use that?" the bike guy asked incredulously. DOH!

    Since the Shimano compact double doesn't have an option that replicates my old triple's 30 front/ 28 back, I'm switching to a SRAM Rival system with a 34 front/32 back. I'm a little leery of the SRAM shifting action, but I suppose I'll get use to it -- old dogs can learn new tricks. And I think I'll enjoy the gearing very much.

 

 

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