Most of the areas where I ride in the dark do not have many street lights. It's close to pitch dark, which is why I have a very good light. I can definitely see the stars! But most of my dark riding is in the early AM, so I not only see the stars, but I also see the sun rise at different times of the year. Two years ago, my town stopped lighting about 30% of the street lights to save $, but there was such an uproar, they were put back on. Still, I suspect most of you would think it's pretty dark around here, even with the lights back on.
I never thought I'd like riding in the dark, as I don't see that well when driving at night, but with riding, it's different. I just go slower and generally I am riding on roads I am very familiar with. I've had a few deer jump across the road at me, once, right across the street from my driveway, as I was slowing. I's kind of surreal when that happens.