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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    14

    Numbness in my right hand

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    Hola ladies...
    I apologize in advance b/c i know there are already several older posts about this and I've read thru them all... but I'm still struggling to find the right answer for me...

    Yesterday, i went on my longest ride, 25 miles... got a little bit of numbness in my left hand during the ride, but it went away afterward. However, a little after my ride, I got the tingling sensation in my right hand, only in the pinky and ring finger. Did my research, found out about ulnar nerve entrapment... blah blah blah. Started to go away, but I got it back again today on a shorter ride.

    Anyway, when I first got my bike (GT ZuM), I thought the reach was a bit far, so a friend recommended moving the saddle forward, which I did... however, now I find myself constantly pushing back on the saddle. Should I push it back to where it was? Raise the seat? He said the stem was short on the bike so raising the bars isn't a likely choice unless i switch it out (???)... any help would be fabulous! Thank you!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Central Indiana
    Posts
    6,034
    Quote Originally Posted by jordanjustgo View Post
    Hola ladies...
    I apologize in advance b/c i know there are already several older posts about this and I've read thru them all... but I'm still struggling to find the right answer for me...

    Yesterday, i went on my longest ride, 25 miles... got a little bit of numbness in my left hand during the ride, but it went away afterward. However, a little after my ride, I got the tingling sensation in my right hand, only in the pinky and ring finger. Did my research, found out about ulnar nerve entrapment... blah blah blah. Started to go away, but I got it back again today on a shorter ride.

    Anyway, when I first got my bike (GT ZuM), I thought the reach was a bit far, so a friend recommended moving the saddle forward, which I did... however, now I find myself constantly pushing back on the saddle. Should I push it back to where it was? Raise the seat? He said the stem was short on the bike so raising the bars isn't a likely choice unless i switch it out (???)... any help would be fabulous! Thank you!!
    You shouldn't move a saddle to alter your reach. Saddle position is, instead, is a function of placing your knees in the correct position vis-a-vis your pedals. Moving your seat forward also has the affect of moving your weight forward on your bike, and can cause upper body problems. Saddle height, also, is about getting your knees and hamstrings happy.

    To shorten your reach, change your stem length and rise, raise your handlebars if you cab, and/or change your handlebars to one with a shorter reach. If all of those things are maxed out, then your bike might simply be too big. You can work on your flexibility to try to make it work better for you.

    Whatver you do, do not keep riding your bike as it's currently set up--unless you want permanent damage to your unlnar nerve. Have you had a professional bike fitting?
    Live with intention. Walk to the edge. Listen hard. Practice wellness. Play with abandon. Laugh. Choose with no regret. Continue to learn. Appreciate your friends. Do what you love. Live as if this is all there is.

    --Mary Anne Radmacher

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,632
    I see the GT ZuM has a flat bar. I second the suggestion to get a fitting session, and explore swapping the grips with ergonomic ones. In addition to changing the stem, your bars might be shortened so that the match the width of your shoulders better. Ergon makes very nice ergonomic grips (in two sizes, for small and large hands) -- the bar ends give you more hand positions while you ride. Search for them in Amazon.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    14
    The bike was fitted, and everything else about the fit, I love... The reach just feels a tiny bit stretched. I feel I have a tendency to lean forward and ride "low" to the bars naturally (though this could just be bad posture also and adding stress to my wrists), so I think switching out the flat bar is a possibility...

    I just want to be able to ride farther distances in the future without screwing up the nerves in my hand.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,632
    Also, you could ask about "riser bars" -- for example, Easton has one that rises 4cm (1.6"), but in Amazon there are some with a 5" rise...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    NW Ohio...for now
    Posts
    124
    OK...very simple here, but Freedomrider had similar problems when he started out. He got a better pair of gloves with better cushion and rarely has problems since.
    Don't cross the river if you can swim the tide...

    2011-Cannondale Synapse Alloy5 WSD with 105 and BB30!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Portland, OR, USA
    Posts
    124
    I have the same issue with some gloves but not others. I made the mistake of ignoring it and spent two years with numbness before my fingers recovered!
    2011 Scott CX Team/Koobi Xenon
    2005 Bike Friday NWT/Selle Royal Lookin
    2001 Bianchi Giro/Terry Butterfly Ti
    1970s Centurion Le Mans/Ancient waffle saddle

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    14
    alas, i do not wear gloves while i ride :\ i was waiting until i did longer, more intensive rides before buying a pair...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Portland, OR, USA
    Posts
    124
    In that case, get some gloves! 25 miles is plenty far enough for nerves to get aggravated. (I can't ride gloveless more than five miles without getting that tingling/numbness.) A good pair of gloves will probably make a big difference. You could try a glove with a split along the palm where the ulnar nerve runs. They don't necessarily need a lot of padding, just enough on either side so that pressure on the nerve is reduced. Or the split may not be important in your case (my best gloves are simply lightly padded all across).
    Last edited by Ered_Lithui; 07-02-2011 at 11:36 PM.
    2011 Scott CX Team/Koobi Xenon
    2005 Bike Friday NWT/Selle Royal Lookin
    2001 Bianchi Giro/Terry Butterfly Ti
    1970s Centurion Le Mans/Ancient waffle saddle

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    10,889
    Quote Originally Posted by jordanjustgo View Post
    alas, i do not wear gloves while i ride :\ i was waiting until i did longer, more intensive rides before buying a pair...
    Gloves, gloves, gloves, get gloves They are also important in heloing to protect the skin on your hands from getting torn up should you have a spill.

    I ride 2-inch riser bars on both of my road bikes, and also use Ergon Grips (these rock). You may not need 2-inch risers, but they are more comfortable than true flat bars. The Ergon grips are an inexpensive way to make your hands more comfortable - but you do still need gloves I have the Ergon GS3 on my mountain bike (they were for another bike but don't work with my grip shifters). The bar ends are adjustable, soft, and gives more hand positions. Here is a version without the bar end.

    They make a real difference.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,632
    The bar ends are nice, I must say. When I had a mountain bike, I put some Ergon grips with the bar ends and was skeptical. They are very comfortable, it gives a nice alternative to grab the handlebar.

    Gloves help, but so does having a strong core, so you are not putting the weight on your arms. Have the bike shop check the width of your bars. They tend to be too wide for many women (relative to your shoulders) and that causes aches and pains.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northern UK seaside town
    Posts
    59
    Thanks for starting this thread jordanjustgo. I too did 25miles yesterday (wooohoooo for us!! ) and as well as a numb bum ended up a sore right hand and arm. I did try and focus on 'form' and keeping my arms relaxed and slightly bent but still the soreness happened, maybe it's a 'noob' thang. I have straight riser bars and ergonomic grips but will look into bar ends and new gloves.


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    10,889
    Frankly I wasn't sure the bad ends would work for my mountain bike. I have found on my (so far) one trail ride that the size and curve of these particular grips with integrated bar ends took away much of my fear when I got close to trees as I went around roots. I really wish they would work with my x0 grips on my Gunnar though. The bar ends are helpful, especially if you have any had problems. Core strength is good as well, but with arthritis they are heaven-sent.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,632
    @Catrin: Ergon makes grips for "twist shifter". Models are GC2 and GR2.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Boise Idaho
    Posts
    1,162
    Have you thought about changing your handlebars to a swept back more ergonomic bar, perhaps a albatross - the nitto or the soma oxford, would not require changing your shifters or brakes.
    Sky King
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