Tell me about cadence

[Crankin]

I was about to say the same thing, Indy. If your bike is a compact double (which I suspect it is), you should not be using only the big ring for a ride that is very hilly. No wonder a high cadence is hard! If your bike is not working well in the small ring, bring it in to be checked.

[indysteel]

I see from a past thread that you're riding a 2009 Specialized Dolce. From what I can tell from Specialized's website, you like have a 50-34 compact with a 9-speed 12-25 cassette. If you were in the middle of the cassette and on your big chain ring--factoring in wind and hills--I'm willing to bet that you were in slightly too big of a gear to spin comfortably at 80 rmp. Now, that's just a guess, but I would suggest redoing your experiment but try a gear or two smaller. While you do want a bit of resistance on your pedals, you want to choose a gear that is relatively easy. As Crankin said, get your bike serviced so that you can use your front chain ring. You need full access to those gears if you're going to deal effectively with your terrain and wind conditions. Once you get the issue fixed, start playing around more with your gearing while you attempt to spin a bit faster.

I used to run a triple on my road bike and now I have a compact with a 10-speed cassette. The jumps between gears are greater on the compact than on the triple, and it's a bit harder to find the perfect sweet spot in certain conditions. I have to shift in both the front and back a lot more now than I used to (I used to use my middle ring in most flat conditions almost exclusively and tended to use only a handful of rear cogs). I've found with the compact that I often end up using--out of a bit of laziness--slightly too big of a gear such that I struggle to spin like I used to with my triple. I wonder if you might be encountering the same issue--you are either settling on a gear that's slightly too big, which you're either mashing or getting out of breath trying to spin or too little of a gear that you end up spinning a bit too wildly on because you don't have enough resistance. A compact crank can take some getting used to as a result.

[OakLeaf]

A noisy chain is either a sign that you're cross chaining or a need for adjustment... not a reason not to use half your gears!

[Catrin]

A noisy chain is either a sign that yoi're cross chaining or a need for adjustment... not a reason not to use half your gears!

I had a huge problem with this last year, until one of the wrenches at my LBS explained that I need to trim my FD from time to time, and when I understood this better the problem went away. At the height of the problem I couldn't use more than a third of my gears My not understanding trimming had led to everything getting out of adjustment, and it just fed the cycle until I learned.

[Bike Writer]

I've been following this discussion with great interest because I have issues (or had more in the past) with finding the proper gear for hills and my tendancy to get winded. Granted I am not in the best physical condition but I found myself walking up hills often. With a new bike that has a greater range of gears I have yet to had one that I've walked up. However I do at times have to stop and catch my breath on bigger hills.

I have a 14-34t Mega Range cassette on the back and 42/34/24 on the front.

If I am reading all this correctly I might be getting winded from spinning too much? I think this is going to take some trial and error and perhaps I should be practicing and getting the feel of the different gears on flats?

Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems as though the additional gears make the effective length of the chain shorter? Is that why I feel that I get quicker acceleration and more power from or is it something else? I think the winded part is more from me not being in better condition + needing more practice with using the correct gear for the situation. And of course timing is everything and catching the feel for when is the optimal time to shift is probably like putting or the short game of golf....it comes with practice.

[OakLeaf]

Is that why I feel that I get quicker acceleration and more power from or is it something else?

Quicker acceleration and more power are from using a lower gear. That's why stoplight drag racers usually drop a tooth from stock on their front sprocket.

Your new setup still has the middle gear ranges, you just have the option to use lower gears now. If you're getting winded on hills that you used to be able to climb on the bike, then it's either a matter of working on your cardio endurance or, yes, possibly using a taller gear. But if you're now riding up hills and getting winded that you used to have to walk ... that's only because you're exerting yourself more.

[Bike Writer]

Oak, I need to be a bit more specific. I am now riding up hills that I used to walk up. I do get winded and stop partway up, but continue on riding up them. In the past I would have to stop because it felt too hard (and I was winded) and when I caught my wind again, I'd have to walk the rest of the way up not ride.

Makes sense about getting winded from more exertion.

[westtexas]

Okay, here goes.

Yes, my bike is a Specialized 2009 Dolce Elite. I think it's a comp and the frame is a 50 or 51 (actually too small for me). I've had it properly fit by a reputable fitter. Certainly the crotch pain I had when I first started has all disappeared and I have no aches anywhere after I ride.

I read this thread prior to riding today (70F, 12mph NE winds, low humidity... it was gorgeous!!) to keep all your advice and experience in my head as I went along. It went better today but I was still huffing and puffing. I went my full route (~15 miles) without wanting badly to go home.

I think I found my "sweet spot". At about 75-80 rpm I could maintain the cadence on a flat indefinitely. My CV system wasn't crashing and my legs were not aching or burning. So at the very least, I think that's a good thing to figure out. This puts me on the big wheel in the front and the 3rd largest wheel in the back.

I attempted to maintain this cadence the whole ride (and did well until the massive hill at the end) by shifting up or down accordingly - this is the correct thing to do, right?

Over time I assume that it will become easier for me to maintain a cadence in my sweet spot and that you are thus then able to build up strength to pedal that fast in higher gears, right? And that's how you get faster? That's my ultimate goal - I want to be faster but still be able to go long distances. There is a 100mile ride in September I would like to be able to participate in.

Thanks again for everything guys, this is invaluable as I become a better cyclist.