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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    45

    New bike vs. new components

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    I hope it's not annoying that I've now started a bunch of different "help me!" threads; I'm new to all this, so I hope you'll forgive me.

    Anyway, I like my bike. It's an early 80s Reynolds 531 Trek. It's light and peppy, and it fits me pretty well. I'm told it's a nice bike that I got a really good deal on.

    I'm training for a century in the fall, and I'm either going to have to switch out some components on my bike (headset is the big one, but I'd also want to probably upgrade some other components and get a new saddle) or get a new bike better suited to a longer ride like that. My budget is between $500 and $900. I'd like to save money where possible, but I'm willing to spend money if it's going to be worthwhile.

    So what do you think? Should I start looking at new bikes and keep my current one as is for city riding? Should I hit up a bike shop and tell them to pimp my bike?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    153
    Have you gone to your LBS and asked for a quote or opinion?
    Life goes by pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, and do whatever you want all the time, you could miss it.

    2010 Fuji Roubaix 1.0
    2007 Fuji Absolute 2.0

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Central Indiana
    Posts
    6,034
    I'm partial to steel bikes, so I'd probably fix up what you already have. To my tastes, it would be better than what your budget will allow you to buy new. What model is your Trek? Is the frame in good shape?
    Live with intention. Walk to the edge. Listen hard. Practice wellness. Play with abandon. Laugh. Choose with no regret. Continue to learn. Appreciate your friends. Do what you love. Live as if this is all there is.

    --Mary Anne Radmacher

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Indiana.
    Posts
    101
    First off, what don't you like about your current bike? And next, are there any things that need to be replaced (eg. things that are broken or worn, things you just can't stand about your bike, etc.)? Also, do you see yourself getting a newer road bike at some point? After answering those questions I'd then talk to a trustworthy shop.

    What's on your current bike? The original components or has anything been replaced or upgraded?

    $900 today would buy a very intro level road bike. Closer to $1,500 will get you a nice road bike with mid-level components (with Shimano, think 105). It makes more sense financially in a situation such as this to go for a newer bike (unless you absolutely love your current frameset, it fits your needs as well as your body, and you don't see yourself buying a new bike, etc.) as bike manufactures are able to get the components for so much less, so it's a better bang for the buck.

    A bike shop will make more money fixing up a bike than if one were to buy a new bike (unless of course, the bike to be purchased is a very expensive one) so do keep that in mind. In some cases it certainly makes sense to fix up a bike rather than to buy a new one, but in other cases, it's sometimes best to buy something newer.

    If you think buying a new bike may be the best thing for you, I'd do what absolutely had to be done to your current rig (saddle included as that could be very easily moved to another bike) and save up a little more cash in order to get a bike with mid-range components vs. low-range (it's definitely worth it!).

    Hope this isn't too much information!
    Last edited by LivetoRide; 03-23-2011 at 05:53 PM.
    "Limits are a state of mind: break them before they break you."
    --Michael Cotty

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    northern Virginia
    Posts
    5,897
    Have you done any long rides on your bike? Any aches and pains that might indicate a fit problem?

    I would ride the bike you have for a while. If you're generally comfortable and don't have a fit problem that can't be solved with your current frame, then new components might be the best course of action.

    - Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
    - Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
    - Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle

    Gone but not forgotten:
    - Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
    - Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    I had the same dilemma a few years back and opted for a new bike. My budget was quite a bit higher, and it was still not much more money to buy a new bike than to totally refit the old frame (parts only, doing all the labor myself except for getting the rear triangle cold-set to accommodate a 10-speed cassette hub). Then of course there's the hassle factor, all that work instead of just going to the LBS and plunking down my debit card...

    There's the regret factor though, that you can't really put a price tag on. I feel bad about not riding my old bike. One of these days I will get that thing back on the road.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    3,151
    I agree with asking the question: what don't you like about the current wheels? Has it gone long before?

    What it feels like is IMO the most important. If you're gonna be on it for a hunnert miles, you want what works. If this one's only "pretty good" I'd definitely be shopping -- tho' I'd also explore those little tweaks that can make for a better fit.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    northern Virginia
    Posts
    5,897
    Another thing to consider -- for your budget, you would wind up with an aluminum bike. You might be very happy with it, but as Indysteel indicated, there are more than a few folks here who do strongly prefer steel.

    You can test ride a few new bikes in your price range to get a feel for differences in fit, components, and frame material, to help with your decision.

    - Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
    - Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
    - Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle

    Gone but not forgotten:
    - Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
    - Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Central Indiana
    Posts
    6,034
    Quote Originally Posted by ny biker View Post
    Another thing to consider -- for your budget, you would wind up with an aluminum bike. You might be very happy with it, but as Indysteel indicated, there are more than a few folks here who do strongly prefer steel.

    You can test ride a few new bikes in your price range to get a feel for differences in fit, components, and frame material, to help with your decision.
    My response was largely based on the assumption that the OP would likely end up with an aluminum frame, which may or may not be a big improvement. But others have raised good points. If the Trek just fits so so, then fixing it up doesn't make a ton of sense.

    Still, I'm a big fan a steel, especially for long rides!
    Live with intention. Walk to the edge. Listen hard. Practice wellness. Play with abandon. Laugh. Choose with no regret. Continue to learn. Appreciate your friends. Do what you love. Live as if this is all there is.

    --Mary Anne Radmacher

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Madison WI
    Posts
    280
    500-900 wouldn't buy a very nice bike in my opinion. Steel rocks I upgraded from aluminum frame, carbon fork with low end parts to steel frame, carbon fork and high end parts and am living with the bike of my dreams Nicer wheels, better components will suit you well I think! I'd keep the frame as long as you are happy with fit.
    Alison - mama of 2 (8yo and 6yo)
    2009 Independent Fabrication steel Crown Jewel SE
    1995 trek 800 steel MTV

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Madison WI
    Posts
    280
    ps you CAN adjust fit with the frame you have as long as you are in the right window. New stem, seat setback post, etc.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    45
    Wow, thanks for all the info!

    I do like my current frame. It seems to fit me well, and it's in good shape (though there are a couple tiny rust spots I need to take care of). I don't like the saddle and haven't found a way to adjust it so that it doesn't feel like I'm constantly sliding forward. I know that's easy enough to fix. I also need to get a new headset. I have upright handlebars right now, and I am going to get dropped ones, and switch out my shifters (and probably brakes) while I'm at it.

    I have taken some moderately long rides, and the biggest problem is the saddle issue. It's possible something else will come up once that's fixed...

    I talked to a guy at a local bike shop when I got it tuned up a couple months ago. He said it was a really nice frame and said it could make a nice road bike. The shop I went to specializes in vintage road bikes, so I think it would not only be a good fit, but they also have lots of parts on hand and seem to be pretty reasonably priced.

    It sounds like maybe my plan of action should be to fix up the one I've got now for this season and save my pennies and buy something new next year...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Madison WI
    Posts
    280
    so far my favorite saddle was only 40.00 - http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-50...003823&sr=1-21
    Alison - mama of 2 (8yo and 6yo)
    2009 Independent Fabrication steel Crown Jewel SE
    1995 trek 800 steel MTV

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Indiana.
    Posts
    101
    Have you tried adusting the tilt of your saddle?

    And what type of shifters are you wanting to put on your current bike? Bar-end shifters? Stem mounted shifters? Or STI? As STI shifters are generally the most expensive part of a groupset (think a couple of hundred dollars minimum for STI levers) but if you don't mind going with one of the other options, they can be had for much less.
    Last edited by LivetoRide; 03-24-2011 at 06:22 PM.
    "Limits are a state of mind: break them before they break you."
    --Michael Cotty

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    45
    Quote Originally Posted by LivetoRide View Post
    Have you tried adusting the tilt of your saddle?

    And what type of shifters are you wanting to put on your current bike? Bar-end shifters? Stem mounted shifters? Or STI? As STI shifters are generally the most expensive part of a groupset (think a couple of hundred dollars minimum for STI levers) but if you don't mind going with one of the other options, they can be had for much less.
    Yeah, I've adjusted the saddle all over the place, but it's just the large, cheap, vinyl-covered-foam thing it came with, and I think my bony butt just can't get a grip on it. I figured I would upgrade to something mid-range, hopefully with a bit of texture and not so slippery!

    As far as shifters, I like the idea of STI ones, and if the rest of the work won't be too expensive, I might spring for them, but I can live with something less sophisticated as well.

    Thanks again for all the advice. I'm going to take my bike into the shop and figure out what I'd like to do!

 

 

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