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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    2,545

    How to evaluate a used bike

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    I really need a beater bike that I can lock up without worry. So I'm looking at used bikes.

    I can judge the obvious -- if the brakes work, if it shifts, etc., and I can get help with DIY if a bike needs basic tune-up work. I expect to spend some money and time on a used bike.

    What I'm worried about is the frame and wheels. Will problems be obvious to my naive eye? Do I need to remove the tire to evaluate the wheel?

    I'd appreciate any advice. I don't care about cosmetics -- in fact, for locking up in NYC, the worse it looks, the better.
    Last edited by PamNY; 03-21-2011 at 08:53 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Beautiful NW or Left Coast
    Posts
    5,619
    Hi Pam
    wheels are pretty easy. Give it a spin - if it wobbles, it's crooked. If a bike is really really well used, as in the wheels are used up, you will see a considerable valley in the rims. I'm going to have to get photos of my husband's rims, come to think of it, why hasn't he gotten new wheels yet? hm.
    ok, what else.
    What is fun to do is to get a bike and then take it to a bike shop. If it's a good bike (not a walmart bike) they will happily adjust the brakes, true your wheels and change your chain... for less than $200.

    ok, back to the frame. Yes, you can see cracks in frames. you can eyeball and see things that are bent.
    good luck on your hunt..
    I like Bikes - Mimi
    Watercolor Blog

    Davidson Custom Bike - Cavaletta
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    Old Raleigh Mixte - Mitzi

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    Check the headset and bottom bracket bearings.

    Stand over the bike, apply both brakes, plant the front tire and push the handlebars backwards and forwards. Can you feel any movement in the headset? Now, pick the front end of the bike up off the ground by the frame, so that the frame and fork are perpendicular to the ground. Give the bars a nudge and see that the fork turns smoothly to the side with no binding (other than what the cables might cause), grinding or rough spots. Do the same thing on the other side. (Or do it on a workstand if you have one handy.)

    Put the bike back down on the ground, grab both crankarms and see if you can feel any side/side or up/down movement in the bottom bracket. Then pull the chain off the chainring - let it rest against the BB if there's room, or just hold it in one hand - and spin the cranks. Again, they should turn smoothly with no binding.

    If it's a carbon frame, any defect in the paint is cause for concern. It doesn't necessarily indicate a weak spot or crack in the frame, but it could, so I'd either have a trusted bike shop check it over or just pass on it. With a metal frame, if it's cracked, you'd see it on careful inspection, and chips in the paint are just cosmetic.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    pacific NW
    Posts
    1,038
    I've noticed that the craig's list bikes section (at least in the PNW) has a number of self appointed "safety police" who will call out any of the sellers who are trying to sell a bike that has been crashed or misrepresented in some way or that is grossly over priced, so it seems to me to be a pretty good way to buy a used bike.

    Rodriguez Adventure
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    2009 Specialized Tricross
    2012 Trek Mamba

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Check the hubs by trying to move the rim side to side in the bike frame to see if there is play. Also good to pull the wheels off and turn the hub bearings by hand to see how they feel, either smooth or tight or with crunchy spots. While you have the rear wheel off, spin the cassette or freewheel to see that it works properly.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nomadic
    Posts
    337
    Some of what's on this list re-states what has already been said, but I like it because it's pretty comprehensive but not overwhelming...I printed out a shorter version of it to take with me as a reminder the last time I looked at a used bike.

    The main page of the guide also has tips on buying/selling a used bike.
    Sit bones = ~135 mm, saddles that work ~ 155cm/6.1 in wide
    2003 da Vinci (custom road/all-rounder)/Terry Butterfly Ti
    1994 Gary Fisher Nirvana (vintage MTB/commuter)/Terry Butterfly Chromoly
    1991 Terry Symmetry (NOS frame/fork, project in progress)
    1973 Raleigh Super Course (project in progress)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    2,545
    Thanks, everyone. This is exactly what I needed.

 

 

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