Jamis Coda Elite

[Crankin]

I guess I'm a wimp....
Maybe it's the geometry of the bike, as I always feel like I'm not in the right position when i try to push it on my Coda. But, most likely, I'm just weak! I've certainly been up to 20 mph, but I pretty much stopped looking at my average when I ride the Coda. I mostly use it to do errands or ride on a bike path, go out to eat, etc. Maybe I should ride it more, to get stonger .

[indysteel]

Catherine,

You might take a look at Curtlo too. Similar to Gunnar in that they offer quality steel frames for less.

Crankin and company have touched on what I was trying to get at in my previous posts--although not very artfully. You're right that the Coda is lighter than your LHT, but it's still heavy by road bike standards. Heck, the 2011 Coda is just a pound lighter than my 2010 Jamis Aurora. I'm afraid that if you go the Coda route, you'll eventually kick yourself for not going with a lighter bike.

That said, it's helpful to remember that the frame is just one element of weight. Even if you go with a Gunnar frame, it's not going to be particularly light if you build it up with heavy parts. So, keep that in mind as you decide what to do. I would also note that you may not need mountain gearing if you end up getting a lighter bike. You could potentially get away with generous road gearing. That'll help with weight and give you much more closely spaced gears--which I personally like on central Indiana's mostly flat roads. It's much easier to find that perfect gear.

Having road bike shopping!