Hiking the Grand Canyon: Hindsight

[Pedal Wench]

I tell people if you have never hiked the Canyon put it on the Bucket List. I can't even describe how wondrous the area is!!!!

Amen

[Tri Girl]

OK- so we're going back to the Grand Canyon in mid-March. I have done nothing but think about it and dream about it since we spent 4 days hiking it in June.


And I'm ashamed to admit that I want to do a rim-to-river-to-rim one day hike while we're there. We didn't secure a backcountry permit (didn't know we'd be able to go until this month), and Phantom Ranch is probably out of the question (although I've tried a few times and will continue to call daily as the date approaches).
If we don't get reservations at the bottom, we're going to do the hike in one day. I know it will be tough. I know it will hurt. It will be March, so we won't have the heat of summer, and since I've been consistently doing leg and ab work for the last month (something I haven't done in years), I feel I'll be up to it.

I can't wait to see the Canyon again. It has altered my soul forever...

[Irulan]

Our permit for the river is up this summer. We've been on the wait list since 1995 or so. 18 day in our own boats! Can't wait.

[Crankin]

Tri Girl, you might be having snow and ice at the top in March.
Just a warning.

[Tri Girl]

Irulan- that's SOOOO exciting!!! Your own boats? 15 years on the wait list?? WOW!

Thanks, Crankin! I've been reading LOTS from people's journals who have hiked in March and have learned that will more than likely be the case. We have some crampons and yak trax (not sure which to take) and hiking poles to have at at the start and finish. Not sure how to dress yet, as I know we'll be cold at the start and will warm up once in the inner canyon. I'm thinking just a Goretex jacket and tights I can pull off then back on. Hmmm...
While I detest winter weather, I'm excited about the possibility of seeing the Canyon in a different light with different weather. I just hope we don't get too much snow/bad weather on the 15 hour drive out there...

[Crankin]

Embarrassed to say I have only seen the Canyon once. Three and a half months before I moved, I decided I'd better go... since who knew if I'd ever get back. We went over President's Day weekend. It was the dead of winter, but absolutely beautiful, a true winter wonderland. Unlike here, AZ closes roads to drivers when it snows and the roads are in rural areas. We barely made it out of the park and back to Flag before the road into the park was closed. It was only the second time my kids had seen snow. We have a priceless video of my older son slipping on ice and making a quick recovery, on the way to the overlook. We had to explain that you have to watch the ground and be careful when there is ice. He just had no conception of this, as a desert rat.
I'd bring the same clothes you'd bring for x country skiing or hiking in any winter climate. Just make sure you have removable top layers.
Several of the teachers I worked with used to hike the canyon every spring break. I always was asked to come, as they knew I was a fitness instructor, worked out. But, back then, any outdoor endeavor scared the crap out of me. I seriously thought they would have to call that rescue helicopter for me. I *should* have just trained and done it, because now, I would love to.

[Irulan]

Irulan- that's SOOOO exciting!!! Your own boats? 15 years on the wait list?? WOW!

Here's the deal. If you have $5000 in your pocket you could go with an outfitter tomorrow. If you are a person with your own raft, you go into a lottery draw for a permit. 20% or so of launches are allotted to private boaters, the remaining are allotted to outfitters. Thank you Senator Hatch (owner of Hatch Expeditions) and the outfitter lobby in Utah. These are OUR national parks that we have the right to use as taxpaying public. By private boater, I mean anyone that owns their own equipment and wants to do the trip without an outfitter. Private boaters share all costs, and do not hire guides to run the trips for them.

The wait list was up to 22 years for a permit, and finally the Grand Canyon Private Boaters Association was successful in their suits against the National Park Service ( and the outfitter lobby) to get more launches for private boaters. What this means is that there is a lottery now, and there are more launches for private boaters by shortening up the days you are allowed on the river, not by increasing the allotment. When the suit was completed, we were given the option to combine our permit with other folks to move us up the list. So, instead of a permit that belongs to us for 16 people, we are sharing the permit with two other permit holders, each us gets to bring 5 people except we get to bring 6 as the main organizer. Great system huh?

I may not have my numbers exactly correct, but I've got the concept right.
More info here if anyone cares.
http://www.kwagunt.net/gctrips.html

[bcipam]

I did the Canyon in one day (ran Bright Angel down and walked back up) and never again.

The best experiecne is getting down to Phantom Ranch... taken a shower and then exploring and meeting up and engaging with other hikers who come from all over the world! It's so cool! The dinner and breakfast at the Ranch is also fantastic! We normally go down Kaibab and return up Bright Angel. Someday we were reverse the route but for some reason what we have been doing makes sense.

My favorite trip took several days... we hiked down Kaibab, stayed at Phantom hiked out to the North Rim stayed at the grand Canyon Lodge, hiked back down to Phantom and then finished out on Bright Angel. I was really tired but it was a trip of a lifetime!

[Pedal Wench]

Someday we were reverse the route but for some reason what we have been doing makes sense.

My favorite trip took several days... we hiked down Kaibab, stayed at Phantom hiked out to the North Rim stayed at the grand Canyon Lodge, hiked back down to Phantom and then finished out on Bright Angel. I was really tired but it was a trip of a lifetime!

It's hard to go up S. Kaibab because of the lack of water. We did it one year because it was unseasonably cool and overcast, plus we had cached water on the way down.
One year, we lucked out with a computer glitch. Just as my BF got through to try to book a bed and dinners, all the other computers locked up and he got his pick of the place. You haven't lived until you've stayed in a private cabin at Phantom Ranch. We did a rim-to-rim-to-rim staying in a private cabin both ways - deluxe!!!

[bcipam]

It's hard to go up S. Kaibab because of the lack of water. We did it one year because it was unseasonably cool and overcast, plus we had cached water on the way down.
One year, we lucked out with a computer glitch. Just as my BF got through to try to book a bed and dinners, all the other computers locked up and he got his pick of the place. You haven't lived until you've stayed in a private cabin at Phantom Ranch. We did a rim-to-rim-to-rim staying in a private cabin both ways - deluxe!!!

Thus the reason we hike in February and March. Don't need to carry all that much water. A Camelbak 100 oz is plenty. There are alot of good reasons ot hike in Feb/MArch. Although cold on top as you aproach the bottom it is usually a balmy 60 - 70 degrees - very pleasant. Plus less traffic; Plus easier to get reservations or spaces....

We always stay in the cabins (although I have stayed in the dorms) - either 4 men or 10 men depending ont he group. Add the meals prepared by the Staff at Phantom Ranch - Resort Living!

[bcipam]

super secret about the Grand Canyon and phantom Ranch - if you are a small party and don't mind lodging in the dorms you can walk up the day of your hike and generally get in. It's worth taking the chance otherwise waiting list is 1 - 2 years...

Also we usually do the trip in February and March - yes lots of ice and you may get snow, or rain... buy some cheap shoe spikes and keep them in your pack. They are like mini-crampons. With the spikes ice is no problem.

[Tri Girl]

super secret about the Grand Canyon and phantom Ranch - if you are a small party and don't mind lodging in the dorms you can walk up the day of your hike and generally get in.

Where do you walk up to? Do you hike down to the bottom and just hope to get in? I've been calling daily to see if there are any cancellations, but no luck yet. It's only DH and I and we only want to stay for one night (ideally two, but one would be fine).
I thought I heard that you can ask at the desk at Bright Angel Lodge and see if they have dorm space available.
Our other option is waiting at the Backcountry Info office to see if there was space/cancellation at either Indian Garden or BA campground.

We'll be there the week of March 13th.

[emily_in_nc]

If we don't get reservations at the bottom, we're going to do the hike in one day. I know it will be tough. I know it will hurt. It will be March, so we won't have the heat of summer, and since I've been consistently doing leg and ab work for the last month (something I haven't done in years), I feel I'll be up to it.

My DH and I did this in 2006 (age 45 for me, age 52 for him). It's very doable if you've trained. Read about our hike here:

http://travelingtwosome.weebly.com/sw-parks-page-4.html