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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    778

    Wrench help for a newbie...

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    After experiencing a particularly bad ride last week, I noticed my seat post had slipped down and was some three inches lower then it normally is. I adjusted and had a great ride the next time out.

    About half way through Fridays ride, I noticed when worked the pedals a with a little more speed I tended to get wobbly, my arms started to hurt, so after I got off the bike it was noticeable that the seat was much lower then it was when we started. The seat was FINE before we started and I hit not a single bump or anything, nor did I notice the seat actually go down so it must have been a gradual slip. I took the bike into the LBS today and they cleaned and re-lubed the post with a lubricant with a bit of abrasive in it. The quick release was as tight as I could manage to get it, but he said he tighten it as well, so I HOPE this fixes things.

    While I was there, I did mention the rear break and it seemed a little mushy and perhaps needed adjusting, the tech said he did notice some rubbing and was about to check it out. Then I notice them (slow day at the bike shop.. you walk in and within five minutes two techs are working on your bike, but makes one feel good) taking both the front and rear tires completely off the bike and over to the truing stand and I can SEE that as he spins the wheel the tire is out of true. I ask if it's indeed out of true and says yes, just a bit.

    Now I have only 25 miles on this bike and perhaps another 20-25 miles on it while in the trainer, but I really HOPE this isn't something to worry about. Now I know I'm a larger gal and am 200+ pounds, but this is a cruiser bike with 26", 32 spoke wheels, so this is just befuddling me. Is this "normal" for a new bike to have a period of settling in and adjustment like this or is this due to flimsy, shotty wheels for a larger rider?

    Shannon
    Starbucks.. did someone say Starbucks?!?!
    http://www.cincylights.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    the dry side
    Posts
    4,365
    you will get some cable stretching and what not settling. Is this a cheap or not- cheap bike? The care put into the original build will have something to do with it. I can't speak on whether your bike is built to handle an "athena" or not.

    Learn how to do these adjustments yourself... Park Tool, Sheldon Brown, Youtube all have great how to stuff.
    2015 Liv Intrigue 2
    Pro Mongoose Titanium Singlespeed
    2012 Trek Madone 4.6 Compact SRAM

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    778
    Bike is a 2010 Trek Pure, so not a pricey bike, but also not a Wally World bike either.

    Wheels
    Alloy hubs; Bontrager 550, alloy rims
    Tires Bontrager Cruiser, 26x1.90"
    Last edited by Roadtrip; 10-02-2010 at 04:38 PM. Reason: added info on wheels
    Starbucks.. did someone say Starbucks?!?!
    http://www.cincylights.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    4,632
    Cables stretch as your bike gets used to the idea of being ridden. Wheels go out of true, especially if you crash, whack the wheel on something or ride on a lot cracked or potholed pavement (there's a lot of that around here!). Mine are certainly that finicky. I think if I look at the rear wheel wrong, it goes out of true.
    At least I don't leave slime trails.
    http://wholecog.wordpress.com/

    2009 Giant Avail 3 |Specialized Jett 143

    2013 Charge Filter Apex| Specialized Jett 143
    1996(?) Giant Iguana 630|Specialized Riva


    Saving for the next one...

 

 

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