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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3
    I assumed the exact same thing, with the same analogy as a manual vehicle. The first few time this problem occurred, I also received the same advice, confirming the probability that it is my operation of the machine, not the machine itself.

    Then this problem continued, even when I was being cautious, changing my stroke, 'easing up'.

    Preposterous! my mechanic friends said. Bike technology has come a long way, and the drive train should function so that you can ascend a hill, without losing cadence, or slowing down. I heard wacko accounts of a man standing up, while shifting both front and back, in the middle of a hill and having no problem. If that kind of technology exists, this issue still isn't adding up to me.

    SO, a few of us have started asking around. One woman has come forward with the same issue on the same bike. Like me- she thought she was at fault. Maybe we are too quick to assume we are at fault, and expect too little from the manufacturers.

    Im sure a balance exists here. I have soooooo much to learn about cycling and technique but I also want to make sure I am holding the engineers accountable as well.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    Unless you've changed it this bike came with a compact crank. Because there is a fairly large difference between the sizes of those front rings you do need to treat it a little more gently - and yes getting it to shift from the little ring to the big one can take some finesse. A little less performance is the price you pay when you take equipment out towards the edges of its limitations. While it shouldn't be impossible to shift the bike and you may be able to tinker with it to improve the shifting, it will likely never be as smooth, easy or abusable as a quality standard double - which you may be comparing it to (mr can shift both rings, up a steep hill and not drop the chain...).

    Keep in mind that it will shift differently under a load, so even if the shop guys get it perfect on the bike stand it may still require some tweaking in actual riding conditions. In a perfect world they'd road test it, but I can understand why they may not - at least with my bike - which is a 44cm and may be rather difficult for a tall guy to ride....
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,315
    +1 on compact cranks being a little more finicky.

    Have you replaced the derailleur cable? Having difficulty shifting into the large ring now suggests to me that the cable isn't tight enough. Unless the shop loosened it when doing the other things, then that might mean that the cable is near the end of its life. That's because after the cable becomes fully seated in the housing soon after install, it shouldn't get slack. When it does (when you suddenly get the need to tighten it many months down the line), then it is fraying somewhere and will soon snap.

    It's less likely but also possible that they changed the FD outer limit. Another possibility is that you are cross chaining in the rear when shifting to the large ring. Many compacts are more fickle about needing to have a straighter chain (from the rear cog position) when shifting in front in order for the shifting to be smooth.

    I have always used compact cranks (FSA and Shimano), and I always ease up chain tension when shifting between rings.

    I have some more chain drop on one bike with longer chainstays (and a longer chain) for some reason. I'm not sure why that affects it, but it seems to. On that bike, I will keep the lower limit on the FD set a little bit tighter.

 

 

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