Shifting problem

[Catrin]

Try moving it more. Two smidgens. Three smidgens. Four smidgens. Move the shifter enough that the cage is centered relative to the chain. (trimming it means centering it or at least moving it enough that the chain isn't hitting the side plates of the der cage)

It could also be that the cage is set at a sharp angle to the chain line where you just can't trim it.

If you can't figure it out and do take it to the LBS, have them show you exactly what is going on and exactly how to fix it. Knowledge is power!

It only allows me to move it one smidgen and the next one puts me onto the next ring - it is indexed only. I will ask for more information this week when I take my bike to get the new saddle. Last week they adjusted the location of the cage and also changed where the stops were?

At least I got to see what is actually happening and can have a better discussion about it. Thanks!

[KnottedYet]

Well, if they changed the cage angle, that could be the problem.

Make sure they show you what is up, and how to fix it yourself next time.

[Trek-chick]

I was having the same problem with my Trek 520 especially on the middle ring too. I had my LBS adjust the rear dérailleur and it fixed the problem for a while. It started happening again and I was about ready to take the bike in again. The bike is only 4 months old too.

I think I figured out my problem though...... I commute to work and ride 9 miles in really dusty conditions on an old railroad bed. My drivetrain was getting pretty dirty within just a few days time. I can even see a thin layer of dust on the bike when I get home.

Whenever my shifting starts getting rough, I started just giving the bike and especially drivetrain a thourough cleaning and re-lube and the problem ( for me ) goes away. I actually just ordered myself a set of full-fenders so, hopefully it will help protect my drivetrain from road dirt and grime. I think I need a better chain lube too. My LBS used White Lightning... Self cleaning wax lube.

[Catrin]

I was having the same problem with my Trek 520 especially on the middle ring too. I had my LBS adjust the rear dérailleur and it fixed the problem for a while. It started happening again and I was about ready to take the bike in again. The bike is only 4 months old too.

I think I figured out my problem though...... I commute to work and ride 9 miles in really dusty conditions on an old railroad bed. My drivetrain was getting pretty dirty within just a few days time. I can even see a thin layer of dust on the bike when I get home.

Whenever my shifting starts getting rough, I started just giving the bike and especially drivetrain a thourough cleaning and re-lube and the problem ( for me ) goes away. I actually just ordered myself a set of full-fenders so, hopefully it will help protect my drivetrain from road dirt and grime. I think I need a better chain lube too. My LBS used White Lightning... Self cleaning wax lube.

When I had my bike on my car's bike rack last night I noticed that the RD and some other places looked pretty dirty, perhaps this is a similar problem. I use Rock and Roll dry lube which is a good lube - but have been unsure how often to relube and how often to clean and relube. I am averaging 100 miles a week right now so perhaps this is a part of the equation as well. I had not thought about this.

I think a work stand would make it easier for me to clean

[Becky]

When I had my bike on my car's bike rack last night I noticed that the RD and some other places looked pretty dirty, perhaps this is a similar problem. I use Rock and Roll dry lube which is a good lube - but have been unsure how often to relube and how often to clean and relube. I am averaging 100 miles a week right now so perhaps this is a part of the equation as well. I had not thought about this.

I think a work stand would make it easier for me to clean

My theory is this: 90% of all problems are caused by a too-dirty bike or a too-clean one (yeah, I have stories of trashed hubs and bottom brackets). Any time something's acting funny, start with a cleaning. You might solve it and, at the worst, your bike will be nice and clean when it goes to the mechanic. Trust me, the mechanic appreciates this very much!

If you're just cleaning with rags and water (no- or low-pressure), you really can't over-clean. My rule of lubing is to lube by ear. When you start hearing your chain, lube again and make a mental note of how long it's been since last time. Next time, lube a day or two (or xx miles) earlier

And yes, workstands make the whole job easier on the back and faster overall!

[OakLeaf]

Keeping the drivetrain clean is good, and a dirty or dry chain can be noisy, but it doesn't cause misalignment.

Having had an issue with a FD turning on the frame, I'd be surprised if that's the issue. Mine wouldn't shift to the small ring at all, but the chain wasn't rubbing in the middle ring.

Is it rubbing on the same side of the cage regardless of what gear you're in? Or is it rubbing on the inside in certain gears and the outside in others?

Or maybe it's too high, and rubbing the pin that connects the sides of the cages??



ETA, completely unrelated to your shifting issue:

there were not many hills today so I spent a good amount of time in the big chain

Do you have a cadence monitor? What kind of cadence are you maintaining? I don't remember what your gearing is and wouldn't have a clue which thread to find it in, but I'd be surprised if it's so low that you really ought to be using the big ring under 20 mph...

[KnottedYet]

Keeping the drivetrain clean is good, and a dirty or dry chain can be noisy, but it doesn't cause misalignment...


...I'd be surprised if it's so low that you really ought to be using the big ring under 20 mph...

I was wondering about shifting under load pulling things out of alignment, but I already wrote a tome on trimming; someone else can write about shifting under load.

According to Surly: 26-36-48. 11-34

[OakLeaf]

Well thank goodness for Sheldon then.

I don't know why the forum software is only showing a thumbnail of the chart at 80 rpm ... but you can click on the link for the 90 rpm chart.


Shifting under load (i.e. avoiding same) isn't that complicated. Catrin, has someone already explained that to you? The bike won't shift smoothly if you're putting a lot of pressure on the pedals, which makes the top of the chain super tight. Shifting under load can cause the chain to drop, it puts excess wear on the drivetrain, makes an awful noise while you're doing it (but not afterward), and can even cause immediate damage in extreme cases. When you shift, you need to be pedaling, but back off the pressure and soft-pedal. Ever shift a car without using the clutch (or with a worn-out second gear synchro )? You know how you have to get your RPMs in the right place to sync, then take your foot off the gas while you throw the gearshift? Same idea.

It can be tough when you're climbing a steep hill and realize that you've waited too long to downshift. The hill was steeper or longer than you realized when you chose your gear, and now you're going 4 mph at 45 rpm and you have a lower gear that you really want to grab. I know I occasionally wind up in that situation. When you shift, take as much load as you can off the pedals without falling over...

Still ... I can't see how shifting under load would pull the FD out of alignment unless the clamp was loose to begin with - especially on a steel frame where you don't have to be quite so ginger about the clamp torque. And I really don't think a FD could be so twisted that it would make noise all the time, but still allow you to shift into all three chainrings.