I do it every time I oil the chain.
I use an oily rag to wipe everything, so it all gets a little cleaning then as well.
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Should I oil the pivot points on my FD and RD periodically? I have been told conflicting things on this - by people with a great deal more experience than I - it seemed good to see what people here do.
If you do this - how often is your practice to do so? I have right at 600 miles on the Wanderer and just gave him a good bath, applied some Rock and Roll to the chain, and polished him with a little Pledge. He is looking pretty sharpAlso spruced up Stella, though more from dust than road grime, sadly.
I do it every time I oil the chain.
I use an oily rag to wipe everything, so it all gets a little cleaning then as well.
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
I do the same. They get a thorough cleaning and lube when I clean the chain. Brake calipers also.
You also want to put a drop of oil on the jockey wheel axles.
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler
jockey wheel axles? Guess it is time for me to learn the smaller parts of my bike.
I do have ProLube left - though I no longer use it on the chain. Is it appropriate for these other places or should I use Tri-Flow? The Tri-Flow is a lighter oil and while I can't seem to find the little straw applicator that came with it the mouth seems small enough for use.
Thanks - I will do this right now!
anything with bearings "or" a pivot that is large, should be greased not oiled. oil will washout and collect sand/dirt.
on chains, clean with WD-40. it is a degrease not oil. wipe really well with a rag being careful not to catch your fingers in the cogs.
then lube your chain with a dry lube. it will last longer and not collect gunk.
its good to re-dry lube your chain every week or every other wash. clean as needed or once every 2-3 months.
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#jockeypulley
I give 'em both some love. And anywhere else that moves. I can spend a lot of time playing around with a bottle of Boeshield and the drive train.
My, that sounds somewhat dirty...
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
I'm surprised to see this because I've always been told that WD-40 is the wrong type of oil for bicycle chains, and that it will ruin the chain. There is a lot of conflicting advice out there. I do what my bike mechanic says because I'm not interested in becoming an expert on chain oil!
2009 Trek 7.2FX WSD, brooks Champion Flyer S, commuter bike
I think these are the 2 little wheels that are part of the rear derailleur mechanism.
Again going by what my mechanic tells me, Tri-Flow is good for the moving parts that aren't the chain (and he says it's ok for the chain although he prefers me to use something else based on the kind of grit & weather I encounter in the type of riding I do). It is less messy with the little straw but you can do it without. Just be sure to wipe any oil off your rims.Originally Posted by Catrin
2009 Trek 7.2FX WSD, brooks Champion Flyer S, commuter bike
I've been told that WD-40 is a good CLEANER - but to make sure it has plenty of time to evaporate before lubing the chain. Personally prefer to use Simple Green.
I am looking for a picture of the jockey wheel axle. I am pretty sure I know what it is, but would like to find a picture just to be sure. Regardless I will lubricate all of the moving parts that I can find![]()
Last edited by Catrin; 07-26-2010 at 01:20 AM.
Here are all the places I lube my RD - that is, all the places that are visible in this picture. There are also four pivots on the rear of the body, and of course the other side of the lower jockey wheel and both sides of the upper jockey wheel. ONE DROP ONLY on each point, work the part to get the oil inside, then wipe off the outside.
Even if the bearings are sealed (or ceramic bushings, as I have on my upper jockey wheel), a drop of oil will help maintain the seals. I wouldn't grease them unless I disassembled them and could make sure the grease stayed on the inside of the seal, because outside, grease only collects grit.
It's true, the lubricants you use do depend on where and in what weather you're riding. My lubricant needs are different in Florida (salt air and fine sand) than they are in Ohio (farm dust), and someone who often rides in wet weather will have different needs from a rain weenie like myself.
Pedro's makes two non-toxic lubes. The lighter weight one is called Go! That's the one I use, and I really like it a lot. It lubricates well, goes on very light, and doesn't collect excess grit. The heavier one, for wet weather riding or mountain biking, is called Chainj.
WD-40 is useful for cleaning tar off vehicles, and old built-up chain lube off the motorcycle. It's also useful as a penetrating lubricant for stuck fasteners, which is what it's actually intended for. I don't use the stuff otherwise, and I make sure to wash it completely off any painted parts as well as any parts that need lubrication.
WD not only evaporates within a week or two - leaving parts unlubricated - but while it's there, it collects lots of grit. Exactly what you don't want on moving parts.
Also, as I said, I'm a weather weenie and much of my riding is done in a low-grit environment, so my chain doesn't get cleaned that often. If I were doing it every 100-150 miles, I wouldn't re-lube the derailleurs every time, just make sure to wipe and brush off any grit.
Last edited by OakLeaf; 07-26-2010 at 04:31 AM.
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler
Thanks for the graphic - pictures help and I couldn't seem to find any that really showed what I needed to see.
i kinda thought that the mention of WD-40 would be confusing. a lot of people use it as oil. its meant as a degreaser.
many jockey wheels don't have bearings. just a little washer that has curved edges and those ride in the groves of the jockey wheel. its good to grease the inside when doing occasional maintenance and oil the outside when cleaning the chain.
i mentioned chain because it is intimately involved. sorry sometimes i am too full of info.
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Last edited by EasilyLead; 07-26-2010 at 09:32 AM.
Oh, thanks for the clarification. That makes more sense.
2009 Trek 7.2FX WSD, brooks Champion Flyer S, commuter bike