Thanks so much, yes I have a bike computer. Great advice and I will start reading.
Thanks so much, yes I have a bike computer. Great advice and I will start reading.
I'm just going to add that, if you pay attention, you don't need a computer with a cadence function. It's nice to see numbers, sure, but not necessary. If I notice myself flagging, I drop a gear. If I notice that little "jump" at the top of each pedal stroke, I click up one. I'd rather not spend all the time freaking out because I'm not in a certain range.
There are several mirror related threads around here
At least I don't leave slime trails.
http://wholecog.wordpress.com/
2009 Giant Avail 3 |Specialized Jett 143
2013 Charge Filter Apex| Specialized Jett 143
1996(?) Giant Iguana 630|Specialized Riva
Saving for the next one...
thanks. I think my computer is pretty basic. Good advice, appreciate it!
The idea with "what gear to be in" is to determine what is easiest of "you". Some people do better spinning at a higher cadence on hills and some do better mashing or somewhere in between. One of the ideas with keeping it at a faster cadence, is that it saves your muscles, so you don't get tired out too quickly on a long ride.
An efficient cyclist is changing gears often, even on seemingly insignificant grade changes. If you are on a "mostly" flat road and, say your cadence is at 90, and a small hump in the road is approaching, it's best to change your gear as you start that hump so that you can stay at a 90 cadence until you are over it, then switch back.
You can learn a lot by riding with more experienced riders and paying attention to how fast they are spinning, when they change gears ... and a lot of the stuff.
Congrats on the new bike and the new love of riding.![]()
GO RIDE YOUR BIKE!!!
2009 Cannondale Super Six High Modulus / SRAM Red / Selle San Marco Mantra