I run the same pressure front and rear. I'd note that I've never (knock on wood) had a flat.
I run the same pressure front and rear. I'd note that I've never (knock on wood) had a flat.
Live with intention. Walk to the edge. Listen hard. Practice wellness. Play with abandon. Laugh. Choose with no regret. Continue to learn. Appreciate your friends. Do what you love. Live as if this is all there is.
--Mary Anne Radmacher
Whoa, whoa, whoa, do you mean you've never had a pinch flat (neither have I, that I can recall - I think they're pretty rare when you're under 150 lbs)? Or you've never had a puncture, a leaky valve, any kind of flat????
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler
To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.
Trek Project One
Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid
I have never had a flat of any kind. I guess I've been lucky thus far.
To the OP, there was a thread last year that gave a formula for determining psi, along with a link to a Sheldon Brown article. I'd provide a link to the thread, but I'm on my Blackberry and can't. It's from May of 2009, and was titled "tire inflation and rider weight" if you want to do a search.
The bottom line I took from it is that you should just experiment with psi to see what you prefer.
Sheldon Brown's article indicates that you should run the rear tire at a higher psi (by about 10 percent).
Live with intention. Walk to the edge. Listen hard. Practice wellness. Play with abandon. Laugh. Choose with no regret. Continue to learn. Appreciate your friends. Do what you love. Live as if this is all there is.
--Mary Anne Radmacher
Indy, you are lucky! Maybe I should run lower pressure (I usually go to 118, and I weigh 123). Although, that probably wouldn't have helped when I ran over the wood screw.
Drift--I patched a flat a couple of weeks ago, and it (the patch) failed this week. What did I do wrong? I used a self stick patch, and sanded the tube lightly, as per the instructions. The hole was on a seam, which is where the air ended up escaping from under the patch. Should I have sanded more, or used another kind of patch?
Patching over a seam is tough. It's possible that it just wasn't going to happen... but things I do are sand the seam extra to try to bring it closer to the level of the rest of the tube ... and be extra careful that there isn't a glob of wet glue up against the seam when I apply the patch.
ETA - I missed that you used a self-stick patch. I don't have a lot of experience with those, but I've heard they're not as reliable. I carry them for on-the-road repairs, but if I have the luxury of mounting a spare tube and patching the hole at home, I use the kind with the separate rubber cement.
Last edited by OakLeaf; 05-31-2010 at 07:22 AM.
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler
Wow! I want your tires! What are you using?
A few years ago the owner of my LBS sold me some of those self-stick patches, saying they were fantastic. Most people around here, including him, are primarily mountain bikers. I used one on my road bike, and it failed. Tried a few times, and they always failed the same way. The sticky part isn't strong enough, and the air (at road bike tire pressures) forces a path out to the edge. It just creeps along, following the path of least resistance. I don't think you did anything wrong - and it chose the seam to travel along, as the easiest path, but I'm pretty sure it still would have failed.
I haven't used them in 10 years, so maybe they've been improved, but those things really should be labeled with a maximum suggested pressure, in my opinion. Give me the old kind (with the glue that sometimes evaporates out of the sealed tube) any day! I think I have the self-stick kind in my mtb seat bag, but never again on the roadie.
Does the "never inflate to max" apply to tubeless tires too?
Marcie
Sarah
When it's easy, ride hard; when it's hard, ride easy.
2011 Volagi Liscio
2010 Pegoretti Love #3 "Manovelo"
2011 Mercian Vincitore Special
2003 Eddy Merckx Team SC - stolen
2001 Colnago Ovalmaster Stars and Stripes
drifting...
You raise an interesting point. With the rubber cement, it's immediately obvious when it's gotten so old that it's dried up. With the self-stick patches, you don't know until you go to use one. Or you wind up discarding them just because a certain amount of time has passed and they could be stale.
Yeah... I guess if my second spare tube has failed, either my riding buddies have already left or they'll be willing to wait an extra 90 seconds or so for the glue to dry, even though it does seem like fer-frickin'-EVER even when you're doing it at home with no time pressure.![]()
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler
I have a friend who sent me a bunch or articles showing that lower psi is better than high psi. There is no measurable increase in rolling resistance but your ride is smoother and more comfortable. In fact lower pressure is better for when you hit bumps, because your tires roll over them more easily so your momentum keeps going forward instead of being interrupted by the bump. If I can find them I'll post the articles here, but I have to warn everyone that they will make your eyes glaze over -- it's very dry reading.
Anyway, I used to keep my tires at 120 psi. I agreed to experiment with lower pressure and I'm averaging the same speed at 110 psi. One of these days I will drop it to 100 psi and I won't be surprised if it makes no difference in speed. I also mentioned the experiment to the mechanic at the LBS and he said he wouldn't go above 100.