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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Everett, WA
    Posts
    191
    Hi Kit - welcome to non-lurk mode.

    From reading through your post, sounds as if you have 3 major complaints with your current bike - leg soreness, seat pain, and road vibration.

    Regarding the leg soreness, have you had any kind of bike fitting done? I would expect some leg soreness after a ride that was a lot longer or harder than your usual rides, but I wouldn't expect it to happen all the time. If it does, it leads me to believe that there may be some fit issue you'd need to address - saddle too high or too low, too far forward or back in relation to the cranks, etc.

    As to seat pain fit your fit/position can cause issues there too, as can having a saddle that just isn't right for you. I personally had to go through 6 different saddles before I found "the one."

    If you do decide to get a new bike, it will still be important to ensure you have a good fit and the right saddle, otherwise you may still experience issues.

    As for the road vibration...I don't think the different geometry of a road bike alone will help with that, but material will. What I'm not sure of is, for vibration-damping purposes, would it feel smoother to ride an aluminum frame with all contact points (seatpost, saddle shell, bars, or even cranks) made of carbon? Or smoother to ride a carbon frame with alloy bars, seatpost, etc.? I know a couple weeks ago I was riding my bike (carbon frame & fork, carbon seatpost, alloy bars and alloy cranks) on a rough chipseal surface and my hands & feet were almost going numb from the buzz - they were touching alloy, not carbon. My butt on its carbon seatpost & saddle shell didn't feel it at all. So maybe you'd be happy sticking with aluminum w/carbon fork, but upgrading your seatpost & bars to carbon versions. I'll be interested to hear what other folks here have to say on that.

    I've also heard that the type of tires you roll, along with what pressure you pump them to will make a difference in how chip seal will feel - but I don't have enough experience with different options to make a good recommendation here.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Columbia, MO
    Posts
    2,041
    I ride a 7.3FX for 70-100 miles and I don't have a problem with discomfort, if everything is adjusted. I haven't ever ridden a road bike so my opinion that it looks uncomfortable is unfounded.

    I have a brooks saddle, which is well broken in (~8000 miles on it) and a special handlebar. My bike is WSD and I have a longer stem which brings the handlebar up even more, which is better on my wrists.

    I know that if I bought a new bike again, it wouldn't fit perfectly, I'd spend a lot of miles adjusting it like I did my 7.3FX.

    That's not to say you shouldn't get a road bike, I just wanted to tell you that if it is discomfort, a new bike alone might not be the answer, or you might be able to fix the problems by making some adjustments to your bike.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    5,023
    Quote Originally Posted by malaholic View Post
    I've also heard that the type of tires you roll, along with what pressure you pump them to will make a difference in how chip seal will feel - but I don't have enough experience with different options to make a good recommendation here.
    This!

    I also live out in the country in the PNW and ride quite a bit of chipseal and unpaved roads (much to my annoyance!). I'm pretty tolerant of the terrain changes as a person, and I happen to ride Ti, so it's not such a big deal for me. I have started inflating my tires (23mm 650's) to a slightly lower pressure than I used to when we lived in NC and rode better quality roads (to 100 psi instead of 110/120 psi).

    My H, on the other hand, has former injury issues with his wrists, so he can't handle heavy vibration at all. He's gone through upwards of 12 bikes trying to find the perfect combination (no joke!) and so far, keeps returning to one of his first bikes. So far, he's tried Al, steel, carbon, carbon/steel, Ti, al/carbon and numereous geometries and wheel/tire types. His favorite to this day is his aluminum frame Specialized Tricross that also has a carbon fork. This amuses me some since his very first bike was an aluminum Trek 1200 and he said that bike beat him to death. This one is the same combination of materials, but the geometry is totally different. He also never runs any tire smaller than a 25mm and he doesn't inflate them to 'max' unless we are going to be on SMOOTH road (which pretty much doesn't happen anymore). He also has some crazy super gel crap under the bar tape on his handlebars - but he likes it. I have no padding in my gloves or on my bars, so his bars weird me out, but to each his own.

    Anyway, my point is that if you get the wheels/tires right and the fit right - frame materials may not matter as much.
    My new non-farm blog: Finding Freedom

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    507
    I think one of the biggest adjustments will be going from a flat bar to a road bike is the braking. In my case I find I just cannot adjust to the large levers and it hasn't helped that I cannot pull the brakes very well. I have put extra lever on the top of my handlebars on my road bike and I only use them. I just don't feel safe without being able to get at least 2 fingers around the lever.

    So make sure you are happy with the road bike bars, otherwise if you haven't got them already, bar ends add extra handholds to a flat bar. Also NZ is mainly chip seal. A carbon fork is a great addition, however a carbon frame is give or take (there's no great difference). Also weight of bike is a big thing. Some AL bikes are the same weight as a carbon. However my AL bike was around the 16kg mark and my carbon the 10kg. I gained 6km/hr speed wise on the carbon (I wasn't such a bad rider after all)!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    10,889
    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Stoker View Post
    Also weight of bike is a big thing. Some AL bikes are the same weight as a carbon. However my AL bike was around the 16kg mark and my carbon the 10kg. I gained 6km/hr speed wise on the carbon (I wasn't such a bad rider after all)!
    I've noted that my all-steel-frame LHT is lighter than my AL Trek 7.6 with the carbon fork. Just saying

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The Great White North
    Posts
    662
    Welcome Kit! I was sort of where you are now a few years ago. When I got back into biking, I started with a mountain bike and then moved on to a Trek FX 7500 (earlier version of what you have now). I was happy with that for a few years but ... as I got better and started riding more event rides and with other people, I wanted to go farther and faster. So, the FX is now my "beater" bike and my pride and joy is a Trek 5200 (new version would be the Madonne 5.2). Having a better machine really does improve your comfort and the joy of riding. BTW, I am in my mid-40s.

    I know you don't want to spend that much (my bike is all carbon with Ultegra components). My DP recently got back into biking and graduated from a bike similar to the FX to a Trek 2.1 WSD. She loves, loves, loves it. The fork and seatpost are carbon so comfort is improved and she spent around $1500 for everything: bike, helmet, shoes, water bottles.... (her bike riding days had long been dormant). Another important step - she got fitted for it. So, is it worth it? That's an individual choice, but for many, the answer is yes! Whatever gets you out on a bike the most and keeps you smiling.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    London, UK
    Posts
    102
    Left field suggestion - have you thought about getting a tandem??? It evens out different levels of fitness/strength, but it's much more than that. It's a really lovely feeling of teamwork. Of course, then there will be the straight bar/drop bar decision. But I just thought I would make the suggestion as my husband & I have really enjoyed our tandem - & it certainly seems to bring out the best in other people. We can also go further on our tandem - I guess it's much lighter than 2 bikes & much much more aerodynamic . .

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    1,033
    I'd have to say go check out some high quality steel framed bikes at local shops. They ride like butter and they cost less overall so you can afford to get some nice components on there too. If you are concerned about the weight have the shop weigh them and compare to some of the lower end carbon frames. I say lower end carbon frame bikes because in the price range you are looking you can get a carbon ride but the components you get will be lower end which cancels out the weight difference in the frame. I have carbon, steel and aluminum bikes and my steel bike is my favorite so far as ride is concerned. The steel bikes come with carbon forks, seat posts and all that too so I'd suggest you give them a look. Best of luck.

 

 

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