To be or not to be - gray

[Hairfixr]

Regarding : Dogmama request for advice ~

Finding a professional hair colorist.

There are two ways to address wearing hair color.

Corrective and or Creative:

1st - - - Corrective - is to cover grey to match wearers pre-grey shade and tone. This is the hardest part about hair color. Natural hair color is "also" a combination of many different minerals imbedded with in the hair Add lifestyle sun exposure - so - what is the clients natural shade? It is very hard to find a professional hair colorist these days that even do the "corrective" service any longer. Why - It's tedious as walking on thin ice as the client usually wants the shade/tone value to be that of years past. With that said - expect the color service to be close, not exact for the first few visits. Once the color formulas have been fine tuned and recorded in your client file, only then consistency can be expected. Note: - The professional demi-permanent color products are preferred for this service as they fade slower on tone than semi-permanent "semi's". The retail semi's rarely fade on tone hence the reason professional hair color "product cost" is usually three to four times more than a retail product. Note: the graying can add to the highlighting effect and depth of tone when done properly. So all is not in vain - the gray becomes an asset instead of a liability

My hat is off to MickChick who has alighned herself with a Professional hair colorist - you go girl. Life becomes simpler when your hair colorist makes all the varible decisions of color formulations.

Lady's - just so you know - I don't have a problem with home do it yourself methods "DIY"- some of you do it quite well. However - if your fighting it - go to a Professional.

2nd - - - Creative hair color "weaving", color shade change, highlight, lowlight panels, etc." is what most color clients ask for today. "For most" they prefer not to have the same color/tone they used to have. It wouldn't look natural on them any way as even Asian hair lifts from blue black to brown black warm tone with age. Skin tones change hence the hair color tone should be adjusted accordingly. A true professional colorist knows this - it is a part of their advanced training. This should be "the clue" Ladies - use only season hair colorist (No room for Rookies) here - Ya hear



How to find a seasoned hair colorist - - check the paper yellow pages and or internet web sites that say they specialize in hair color. The best way is to simply asks some one who has "the look" your interested in. It is a complement to the wearer that she has been noticed. They will always be happy to refer their stylist. Be patient a few visits to get what your expectations are. From client to client, hair doesn't respond consistently. The hair colorist is dealing with the unknown when first dealing with your locks. You have brought a lot of unknown baggage with you that the colorist will have to do a CSI on. Example: - iron buildup in hair is the number one cause of a fresh highlight going too warm in tone. The chemical reaction causes the iron to turn to rust with in the hair. This is just one of the challenges a professional faces with a first time client. They have access to clarifiers that remove unwanted trace elements. Most Pros will do this clarifying treatment on their clients before every color service.

Hope this helps with "the hunt" for a professional hair colorist.

Hair Fixr ~

[lph]

Example: - iron buildup in hair is the number one cause of a fresh highlight going too warm in tone. The chemical reaction causes the iron to turn to rust with in the hair.

Wow. I learn the most amazing things on this forum. Thanks for a fascinating post

[shootingstar]

Was wondering how hair acquires iron buildup over time.

[Dogmama]

Wow - thanks for all of the information! I had been going to a stylist who colored my hair 4-5 times but was never able to cover those silver/gray "shooters". That's why I'm looking for somebody else. I have a bead on one person, so we'll see. She's been a stylist for a long time & has a big following. From what you've said, my wishes aren't for rookies because I do want subtle highlights & lowlights. Flat brown is too aging.

I don't mind paying for service. The stylist I saw would charge ~$160 for a cut & color ($60 for the cut & $100 for the color - but as I said - I ask for a lot.) But, I do expect to have those little nasty hairs colored, especially after five tries. I understand that some gray is "color resistant" but can't that be overcome with an H-bomb of color?

[Hairfixr]

Shooting Stars ask: - Was wondering how hair acquires iron buildup over time.


Hair Fixr reply ~

Hair captures and retains minerals as you shampoo your hair.

Here are some of the more "un-popular" minerals frequently found in water. Iron, silica, lime, copper, calcium, lead, etc,

Look at the water ring in the bathroom stool. The color of the ring will tell you which mineral is predominate in your area.

Brown Rust color = iron from well water and old cast iron pipes found in municipal water systems.

Whitish crusty = lime, calcium, silica from well water.

Aqua Green = new homes with copper plumbing.

Mucky brown/gray = lead from well water.

Any of these minerals can cause havoc in a hair color formula.

How it happens: - When you stand under the extra warm shower stream, the cuticle layer of the hair opens up from the water temp. The hair acts like a filter as the body's "negative" magnetic attraction holds the "positive charged" minerals in place. As you Rinse the shampoo/conditioner off - the PH of the shampoo closes the cuticle layer of the hair hence trapping the minerals under the cuticle layer of the hair shaft. Day after day of this procedure builds up enough minerals that even virgin hair "no color" is changed enough that a professional colorist can tell. Blonds get warmer over time, Browns loose the Auburn luster, Brunettes get dull, the side effects are endless.

For you short hair girls - this is less of a issue as you keep the hair cut short so the serious build up is removed by regular haircuts. For the long hair styles it becomes a issue to deal with. Mineral build up is what makes hair appear dry and un-manageable many times. Think about what is making the ring in the stool - that is what is going on in the hair

When I was in Oklahoma I had my clients use a treatment when ever they felt they needed it to remove the hard water mineral build up. Ask your colorist what they suggest for your area. Every area differs with severity of minerals

Note: The new home water filter systems are great for dealing with this issue. The older salt water treatment systems for hard water will not.

Hair Fixr