Disk vs Cantilever brakes

[Catrin]

What are the advantages/disadvantages between disk and cantilever brakes? My Trek has cantilever brakes, and the Salsa Fargo that I am quickly falling into lust with has disk brakes. I have seen some comments on Fargo reviews where the commenter was bemoaning that it was only available with disk brakes, so what are the differences?

[Melalvai]

I wish my bike shop had talked me into getting a bike that could accommodate disk brakes because I've had to replace my brake pads a few times this year already. Disk brakes don't require as much maintenance. On the other hand, the maintenance that is required is best done by a trained mechanic. I think disk brakes perform better in wet weather too.

[MartianDestiny]

Disks get you:
1) Better performance in wet and/or muddy conditions (performance doesn't degrade as much)
2) Arguably better (more sustained) performance on LONG descents
3) Better modulation (not important except on a mountain bike really)

They also (unfortunately) get you:
1) more weight (heavier)
2) potential compatibility issues with brifters
3) Slightly more technical savvyness needed for maintenance (but not impossible, especially with the cable actuated disks you'll be using (as opposed to hydros, which are very nice but can't be used with brifters to my knowledge))
4) Can be really obnoxious if they aren't self centering as they'll rub the rotor (see 3)
5) You'll brand your leg at least once when you aren't paying attention (they get HOT)

I'd have no problems putting disks on a commuter or cross bike. I won't go without them on my mountain bike. But I wouldn't really want them on a "pure" road bike (unnecessary, bulky, heavy)

[Catrin]

Thanks for the information, it is quite helpful. I am unconcerned about the weight, as the Fargo isn't exactly light, weighing in at 27 pounds with the steel frame. It is good to hear that they do better in wet/muddy conditions, as I can see the Fargo would certainly get more action in the winter than my Trek, and the ability to take it to trails would also see more of those conditions.

So it sounds like I should ask my LBS when the time comes to show me how to maintain them...

[tzvia]

Canti brakes are simpler, mechanical. They weigh less. Replacing cables and adjusting them is easy.

Disks (assuming they are hydraulic and yes there are mechanical disks but there is no point to them other than cost) offer easier brake lever pull feel. They are like having power brakes on the car, you don't have to squeeze the levers as hard. Hand fatigue is less when you have to brake a lot, like on long downhills when you are trying to regulate speed. Yes the disks can get hot, and it is better to put the front QR on the side opposite the disk to minimize the chance your hand will touch the disk if you are removing the wheel. It is more involved to center the brakes (I use a feeler gauge to 'gap' them and it makes it easier.) It is NOT hard to bleed the brakes; I have done it, but it is not so simple as replacing a wire and you should really have a bike stand to hold it steady or you will have brake fluid mess. (trust me on that one )

When I go from my MTB to my road bike, I am reminded of how different they feel. The disks can really stop faster with much less hand strength.

Oh, one other difference comes to mind. If you knock the rim out of true, you don't have to worry about the brakes rubbing with disk brakes (unless you bent the rotors).

[Becky]

Keep in mind that a bike with brifters will need mechanical disk brakes. I'm thinking of bikes like a Fargo built with brifters, some cross bikes, some commuter bikes, etc...

As for hydro vs. mechanical, that's a personal preference IMO. I like my hydraulics, but my DH prefers his mechanicals (Avid BB7s) and he's ridden both types. I think it's more important to avoid cheap disc brakes of either variety. Quality brakes with lots of adjustability compared to cheap ones makes a bigger difference than hydros vs. mechs IMO.