Cannot remove the cassette even with the right tools

[Becky]

+1 for the leverage recommendation. We have a massive pair of vice-grips that get pressed into service for tricky cassette removals.

Also, does your cassette tool have the little "guidepost" or does it have a hole in the center? If it has the hole, using your QR to hold the cassette tool in place can help keep everything together and allow you to torque on it a little more.

Good luck!

[wildeny]

Thanks for the tips.
My cassette remover does have a "guidepost".

The handle I used is only 20 cm long (7.87"). I better get a longer one.
I check that the max torque to lock the cassette is 40Nm. Based on my calculation, it means that I need to apply 200N force (~ 20.4 kg weight!)

[idropboys]

Thanks for the tips.
My cassette remover does have a "guidepost".

The handle I used is only 20 cm long (7.87"). I better get a longer one.
I check that the max torque to lock the cassette is 40Nm. Based on my calculation, it means that I need to apply 200N force (~ 20.4 kg weight!)

Definitely get the big handle - mine is massive and allows the force to unlock it

[Cataboo]

Thanks for the tips.
My cassette remover does have a "guidepost".

The handle I used is only 20 cm long (7.87"). I better get a longer one.
I check that the max torque to lock the cassette is 40Nm. Based on my calculation, it means that I need to apply 200N force (~ 20.4 kg weight!)

If you've got a metal pipe, you can slip it over the end of your handle to get more leverage.

[wildeny]

Yesterday I got the adjustable wrench with a 30-cm handle (quite heavy one).
I still couldn't turn the remover.

I asked a mechanic in my office to help me. Finally the cassette was off. (I think the lbs did tighten it too much.)

I practiced a little bit on installing and removing the cassette. Then the mechanic & I disassembled the hub (I also wanted to learn it). Initially we just wanted to clean the inside and put all the parts back, but then he found one skewer was damaged.

I talked to the lbs about my damaged part (I brought those parts to them*), but the lbs said I have to give them the complete rear wheel (with everything installed back) to them so that they can return it to the manufacturer. (they don't like people DIY )

PS I only have bicycles to go around so I can't carry a wheel with me on bike.

[lph]

good for you for finally getting the cassette off. It's really not supposed to be hard, so it's good to install and remove a couple of times yourself so that you get a feel for it.

If only the skewer was damaged it's bizarre that they want the whole wheel back! If I have the English terminology right, it's hardly a part of the wheel at all, but an interchangeable part like the tire.

Oh well, good luck. If you have a backpack you can ride with a wheel strapped to it without too much trouble.

[wildeny]

I checked Sheldon's site and learned the name of that part: cone.



I wonder whether this is due to the poor adjustment applied by the manufacture or the over-tightness on the quick release skewers by the lbs.

The first time when I tried to take out my wheels, it took me lots of effort to bend the handle of the QR.

[OakLeaf]

It should take a lot of effort to open and close the QR. You don't want it coming open spontaneously, or easily when you brush up against something. The rule I usually hear is that closing the QR should leave a mark on your hand.

Loose bearing assemblies need to be kept in adjustment and re-greased periodically. Generally, the cheaper the assembly, the poorer the tolerances it was built to, and the more fiddling it's going to need. It's definitely possible they were over-tightened at the factory, but it's a lot more likely that the locknut came loose over time. How many miles on the hubs? How many years (years would only matter if it's getting up over 5-ish; most grease will degrade over time, but slowly). Did they have a lot of miles in heavy rain, or is it possible you or someone else washed the bike with pressurized water and got water into the hubs?

I would expect the mfr would want the whole wheels back to see for themselves the type of damage to the cones (pitting, scoring, something else) and also whether the cups were also damaged. And also, as you say, because if it's going to be a warranty claim, the LBS doesn't want the mfr claiming that you disassembled it and overtightened it yourself.