Anyone ever backpacked in the Grand Canyon?

[Tri Girl]

November through April are the "temperate" months.

I know- and just the months I'm teaching school and only have 2 personal days a year to use.
Oh, trust me- if I could go any other time I would. I don't have a normal job and can't take off time during the school year.
Plus, DH has to ask for leave off in November for the following year and since he's low on the seniority list- he doesn't ever get weeks like spring break off.

I know it'll be crazy, crazy hot, but I'll be OK. I figure I already deal with 100-105+ degree temps here during the summer (with 80% humidity)... it'll just be tough and we'll have to have plenty of water.



Thanks for the backpacker site- looks really great!! I appreciate you sharing it!

[Irulan]

eh, plan around spring or winter break if you can. It's really brutal down there.

(says the woman who will spend three weeks on a raft in June 2011)

[SLash]

Tri Girl - I would second going to the North Rim. It's cooler and quieter than the south rim, especially during the summer.

My DH and I just got back from a week there last month. We didn't do that much hiking, in fact very little because of a bike accident on one of the trails -- if you plan on renting one of their bikes check the brakes first!! The front brakes locked up on my rental and off and over (the bike not the canyon rim ) I went. That happened on our first day so not much hiking after that.

Still was a great time though, just so incredibly beautiful and remote. I love it and can't wait to go back with one of my own bikes!

Susan

[Tri Girl]

ouch about crashing on the bike! I'm really glad you didn't go over the canyon wall. I've seen some pictures of the mtn bike trails along the rim and they look spectacular. We'd ideally like to be on the North rim- and we'd like to bring our mtn bikes with us. It all depends on what permit we're approved for. Crossing fingers we even get one...

[SLash]

Good luck Tri-Girl, may the cycling gods smile on you! Smart move taking your own bkes!

[Yelsel]

The Grand Canyon -- and desert hiking in general -- is my true love. My first backpacking trip was in the Grand Canyon when I was 14, and I've done all the corridor and unmaintained trails, and almost all of the wilderness trails -- planning to do Bass / the Jewels next year.

Don't be sanguine about the temperature -- 110 to 115 is a lot different than 105, even with the humidity difference. Plus temperature is measured in the shade, and there *is* no shade on the Tonto Plateau and lower. The latest I've hiked is late May-earliest June, and was lucky to have cooler-than-average weather... which meant carrying only a gallon (4L) of water (8 lb) and only setting up a sunshade between noon and 2pm. Normally the sunshade might need to go up as early as 10am and stay up until 3-4pm, and need 1-2 quarts/L more water.

You don't need netting to keep out insects, and you don't usually need to worry about rain until latest July to mid-August monsoons, so bringing the fast-light footprint / poles / fly setup (or a tarp / hiking pole combo) works for shade... the emergency foil blankets are a light way to make the fly more opaque.

It does get cool at night so you need to bring an outer layer, too.
Dressing: http://grandcanyonhiker.com/planners...tdressed.shtml

I would stay on the corridor trails, both since it is your first time for both canyons and desert (I assume) -- if you run into any problems there will likely be people by at some point. Cell phones do not work at the rim, let alone in the Canyon; I carry a signal mirror (and know how to use it) but I suspect that there are enough "jokers" out there that it would be ignored. A loud whistle and two means of starting fires are other good safety measures. You could rent a personal locator beacon... in any case, hikers are charged the cost of rescue (usually involves a helicopter). You do not need to carry a bear cannister, which is nice, but the rodents will definitely be after your food.

Permits are first-come, first served... especially for the corridor trails there is no vetting of how prepared you are. So start faxing (if the fax machine is up, sigh) right after midnight.

To cut down on the food you need to bring, you can reserve dinner at Phantom Ranch, and buy bagged lunches there as well; there is also a small trade store to buy gorp, postcards, and get a stamp cancellation from the bottom of the Grand Canyon. The dinners do not have a time limit for reservation (in fact if you wanted to stay in a cabin at Phantom Ranch, you need to reserve up to a year in advance).

Reading Death in the Grand Canyon is a great resource -- at least we can cut out the 20% or so of deaths "getting up at night and peeing off the edge of a cliff" (okay, I know women can pee standing up, but most don't).

Great website -- around since Mosaic at least --
http://www.bobspixels.com/kaibab.org/hiking.htm

Backcountry office advice to hikers --
http://www.bobspixels.com/kaibab.org/bc/suffer.htm

[Tri Girl]

Thanks, Yelsel, for the great advice! I really, really appreciate your input. I'm impressed with your canyoneering experience! We'll definitely stay on the corridor trails for our first dip into the canyon. Thanks for the tip on bringing the lightest tent setup. We already have a light, small two person tent. We'll probably bring that and leave the rainfly at the rim.
One question: how do you train for the downhills when you don't have any hills around on which to train? I can train for uphills on the stair climber and treadmill, but don't know how to train for the walk down... I'm stumped.

I don't mean to sound sanguine about the temps. I totally and fully appreciate and have deep respect for the desert in the summer. I grew up in Yuma, AZ (the armpit of AZ ) and have spent many summers camping/hiking in the desert. I am very schooled in the ways of respecting the heat and recognizing my needs. The fact that I've been away from the desert for 10 years has softened me somewhat, but I will most definitely prepare myself the best I'm able to. I am a severe over-planner/over-preparer so I will most certainly err on the side of caution with all endeavors related to the Canyon.

DH and I have been talking, and he has to begin putting in for leave in mid November for the entire following year. IF he's able to get Spring Break week off (mid-March), we will go then, but if not- we will HAVE to go in late May/early June. Darn my school year schedule.
At least it's not July...


Thanks again, everyone, for all your help!!! I sincerely appreciate all the advice, tips, help, websites, etc. Nobody I know in real life has done this, so your help is priceless!

[spokewench]

I live in Flagstaff so I have hiked in the canyon a few times overnight; and more so on day hikes.

It is really hot and dry; do not underestimate the need for water (how hot the water will get) and remember that even if there are noted springs on certain trails at places before you get to the river; some of them do not exist during the summer months. Start early in the morning, even hike before it is light if you have good lights and are not on one of the more adventurous trails.

The good thing is when you are buying your pack; and you are planning on hiking in the summer; you do not need to carry as much so you do not need one of the great big bags! I use a bag that is smaller (I will be at home later and will get the dimensions of the bag). You don't need a sleeping bag in summer in the canyon only a sheet or light blanket; if you plan on camping on the rim, you will need more. I usually don't hike in the heat of the summer in the canyon (don't need to since I live so close) but my husband has. He was amazed at how much harder it was and how hot it really felt like. He was quite fit at the time too.

I don't know of any way to really train for the GC either. It is all up and then all down; so there is nowhere else that you can get that much of a sustained up and down to get used to the GC. I usually try to do as many fitness hikes in the mountains that consist of hiking up and down, but even that won't quite keep you from getting sore. There just really is nothing like the GC!

Remember that even if you get a permit to hike in the summer months, there are warnings on the permits that say something like; this hike is not recommended; it is dangerous and you should not do it! These warnings are not to be taken lightly; it is dangerous in the canyon in the summer

[Tri Girl]

Thanks, Spoke! I'm relieved to know that even someone who lives at altitude and hikes mountains on a regular basis will have trouble. Then again- that frightens me a little bit. I will be working VERY hard this off-season to be as ready as I can. Great advice. Thanks!

I wound up getting this Go Lite bag. It fits good and when loaded with 20 lbs- it feels really good. I know I need to get another 20 in there, but so far so good (I've started walking with it already). I got fitted at a backpacking store (telling them that I probably wouldn't buy it there because I wanted to be honest- and they were very kind so I wound up buying my hiking boots from them), so I had an idea how the pack should fit.

The capacity is about 3800 cubic inches, but appears it will fit everything I need with a little room to spare (for the extra gallon of water in addition to the gallon I have in there).

[Yelsel]

Whew, if you are from Yuma, you really do know about the heat, and have a setup for desert hiking. The main difference is that there is no shade at the bottom of the canyon, not even a creosote to wiggle under (that's why I recommend the tent fly for shade, rather than the main body with netting... you don't even need a tent at night.)

You can put the treadmill at an incline and turn around and walk; I have friends who do this for running. Step-downs (as well as step-ups) with weights / backpack are good practice - and you might be surprised at the difference in strength between your legs. Walking down real stairs, at a stadium. Long series of strength moves - such as single-leg bodyweight squats, or yoga - to develop muscle flexibility and endurance. Also work on building up side leg muscles - adductors and abductors - since biking essentially ignores these. The machines are dangerous, use a low pulley or exercise bands instead (GoFit ProGym is a good home/travel set and only about $25.) The best thing is hiking though!

As a geologist I've done quite a lot of work in the desert; heat really does make one stupid, so I've learned to keep an internal running commentary on what I am doing and what state my body is in, which also helps for recreational hiking.

[Pedal Wench]

I use stairs for training = up and down, for hours. Put on some good music, fill up your backpack with waterbottles, and have fun. I also just find a hill in my neighborhood and go up and down for a while.

Good point about rodents. We use a crittersack and try to hang our food from a tree or a hiking pole stuck in the rocks. We usually leave the rainfly, but bring a full tent because I don't like the creepy crawlies - and do shake out the scorpions out of your boots in the morning!

re: hiking boots. On the main corridor trails, you could get away with light hikers or even good trail running shoes, although I like something with ankle support. The secondary trails get a little trickier, but even those could use lightweight shoes. One thing I've noticed that should be checked ahead of time - I've discovered that my favorite shoes are 7-mile shoes. With a weighted pack, they're fine on short hikes, but after 7 miles or so, I can feel every pebble. So, check your equipment.

[Tri Girl]

You ladies are the BEST!!! Thank you for your continued advice! I truly appreciate EVERY piece of warning, advice, hints, tips, ideas, etc.

Thanks for the reminder about critters. I always think of it when mountain hiking, but may have neglected to think of it for the canyon (don't know why- I know critters live in the canyon ).

I'm with PW. I'm soooo creeped out by creepy crawlies that I'd probably worry all night about getting crawled on while I'm asleep- but I may just need to get over it. If I knew a scorpion was crawling on me- I probably wouldn't close my eyes- EVER!
I'll probably wind up bringing both tent and fly- one to use for shade and one to keep the bugs/critters off me.

Good tips on the adductors and abductors- two areas I might have missed.


Thanks again! Keep any advice coming. I'm open to it all, and taking very good notes!

[Yelsel]

First off - Tri Girl, I expect lots of pictures!

Another bit of advice - get familiar with the geology (me? no, I'm not biased). Really, it is a nice marker of how far you've descended / ascended, and is tied with the temperature gradient and ecology as well. Plus you will end up with favorite and least-favorite units.
http://www.bobspixels.com/kaibab.org...c_layer.htm#hs

I love the Hermit Shale, because I feel very comfortable on shale scree, and the trails are usually right by the edge of a dropoff so it is very scenic - but other people hate it for that reason! I hate the evil Supai, because it tends to erode easily and cover / wash out the unmaintained and wilderness trails, and it is a long unit to traverse (used to get between gaps in the steep resistant layers, the Kaibab Limestone-Coconino Sandstone, and the Redwall Limestone). The Supai does have some use though, the Redwall Limestone gets it red color from the oxidized iron in the Supai above, forming the gorgeous thick red band in the mid-canyon. (Limestone is gray, and if you see a fresh face of the Redwall it will be gray also).

The Bright Angel is not a very fun trail; the mule trains grind it to a powder, it is as wide as a superhighway relatively speaking, it is not scenic, and has umpteen million switchbacks. The upside is that it is very safe, relatively speaking; lots of water (Indian Gardens, 3 mile, 1.5 mile lookouts), lots of people, and could get bailed out without a helicopter if there are problems. Plus now they have something to dry the mule urine - I remember stinking pools of it, ew! So think up switchback games to play -- we went through the alphabet 3 times before even reaching 3 mile lookout. So even though it is long, it is fairly easy as trails go, and there is not really a need to stay overnight at Indian Gardens (which is not that high up anyway, just on the Tonto Plateau). If I were going rim-to-rim, I would go South Kaibab to North Kaibab, even though the north rim is higher.

You should consider trying to get permits for the Clear Creek area - that is the most interesting place to get to from the corridor trails on the south side. This is a great launching point for dayhikes to a waterfall and to a native site. I've only been on a day-hike partway there, since I haven't been in the corridor in forever... but someday I'll get back there and fill that in. From the North Kaibab, I suggest a day / side trip to Ribbon Falls (easy to find) and upper Ribbon Falls (not so easy to find).

The entire time I've lived and worked in the desert, I've only seen one scorpion -- and that was at 8,000 feet in the White Mountains of California -- fortunately I looked before peeing that night! I like sleeping in the open... one of the few times I bailed and slept on a handy picnic table was during a huge migration of sidewinder snakes in Devil's Punchbowl (Mojave Desert). I am a severe arachnaphobe, but for some reason it doesn't translate into being afraid of sleeping in the open.

[GrassyRidge]

I freely admit I've never done the Grand Canyon- it IS on my bucket list! So I've saved a lot of this info on my computer yes, I am a dork!

I have done 1500 miles of the Appalachian Trail on the East Coast. One of the nest places I found on hiking and pack info is the WomenHikers group on yahoo groups. It's kind of like the TE for women who backpack.

I second that your pack and your boots are the two most important things you buy, don't skimp. You may want to check out ULA packs, and find out where your local (or not so local) Gatherings are to check out gear.

BREAK YOUR BOOTS IN. depending on what you choose, if you go full-grain leather, pour hot water in, let them sit for 30 minutes, pour them out, then wear them around the house till they dry (yes, change socks frequently). They will mold to your foot, and voila! no blisters. I tend to go the hiking shoe route, they are lighter and work better for my feet (300 miles with full-grain, no blisters but major heel pain from the weight), but that is truly personal preference.

I can't wait to hear how it goes, Happy Hiking!

[Pedal Wench]

You should consider trying to get permits for the Clear Creek area - that is the most interesting place to get to from the corridor trails on the south side. This is a great launching point for dayhikes to a waterfall and to a native site. I've only been on a day-hike partway there, since I haven't been in the corridor in forever... but someday I'll get back there and fill that in.

My favorite bit of advice regarding the hike to Clear Creek was given to me by Schor (permanent volunteer at Phantom Ranch.) He said, "Just when you think you should be there, you're only halfway there." Dang it if he wasn't right!

The only time I HAVE seen scorpions were under my tent at Bright Angel and Cottonwood.