Anyone ever backpacked in the Grand Canyon?

[SLash]

Tri Girl - I would second going to the North Rim. It's cooler and quieter than the south rim, especially during the summer.

My DH and I just got back from a week there last month. We didn't do that much hiking, in fact very little because of a bike accident on one of the trails -- if you plan on renting one of their bikes check the brakes first!! The front brakes locked up on my rental and off and over (the bike not the canyon rim ) I went. That happened on our first day so not much hiking after that.

Still was a great time though, just so incredibly beautiful and remote. I love it and can't wait to go back with one of my own bikes!

Susan

[Tri Girl]

ouch about crashing on the bike! I'm really glad you didn't go over the canyon wall. I've seen some pictures of the mtn bike trails along the rim and they look spectacular. We'd ideally like to be on the North rim- and we'd like to bring our mtn bikes with us. It all depends on what permit we're approved for. Crossing fingers we even get one...

[SLash]

Good luck Tri-Girl, may the cycling gods smile on you! Smart move taking your own bkes!

[Yelsel]

The Grand Canyon -- and desert hiking in general -- is my true love. My first backpacking trip was in the Grand Canyon when I was 14, and I've done all the corridor and unmaintained trails, and almost all of the wilderness trails -- planning to do Bass / the Jewels next year.

Don't be sanguine about the temperature -- 110 to 115 is a lot different than 105, even with the humidity difference. Plus temperature is measured in the shade, and there *is* no shade on the Tonto Plateau and lower. The latest I've hiked is late May-earliest June, and was lucky to have cooler-than-average weather... which meant carrying only a gallon (4L) of water (8 lb) and only setting up a sunshade between noon and 2pm. Normally the sunshade might need to go up as early as 10am and stay up until 3-4pm, and need 1-2 quarts/L more water.

You don't need netting to keep out insects, and you don't usually need to worry about rain until latest July to mid-August monsoons, so bringing the fast-light footprint / poles / fly setup (or a tarp / hiking pole combo) works for shade... the emergency foil blankets are a light way to make the fly more opaque.

It does get cool at night so you need to bring an outer layer, too.
Dressing: http://grandcanyonhiker.com/planners...tdressed.shtml

I would stay on the corridor trails, both since it is your first time for both canyons and desert (I assume) -- if you run into any problems there will likely be people by at some point. Cell phones do not work at the rim, let alone in the Canyon; I carry a signal mirror (and know how to use it) but I suspect that there are enough "jokers" out there that it would be ignored. A loud whistle and two means of starting fires are other good safety measures. You could rent a personal locator beacon... in any case, hikers are charged the cost of rescue (usually involves a helicopter). You do not need to carry a bear cannister, which is nice, but the rodents will definitely be after your food.

Permits are first-come, first served... especially for the corridor trails there is no vetting of how prepared you are. So start faxing (if the fax machine is up, sigh) right after midnight.

To cut down on the food you need to bring, you can reserve dinner at Phantom Ranch, and buy bagged lunches there as well; there is also a small trade store to buy gorp, postcards, and get a stamp cancellation from the bottom of the Grand Canyon. The dinners do not have a time limit for reservation (in fact if you wanted to stay in a cabin at Phantom Ranch, you need to reserve up to a year in advance).

Reading Death in the Grand Canyon is a great resource -- at least we can cut out the 20% or so of deaths "getting up at night and peeing off the edge of a cliff" (okay, I know women can pee standing up, but most don't).

Great website -- around since Mosaic at least --
http://www.bobspixels.com/kaibab.org/hiking.htm

Backcountry office advice to hikers --
http://www.bobspixels.com/kaibab.org/bc/suffer.htm

[Tri Girl]

Thanks, Yelsel, for the great advice! I really, really appreciate your input. I'm impressed with your canyoneering experience! We'll definitely stay on the corridor trails for our first dip into the canyon. Thanks for the tip on bringing the lightest tent setup. We already have a light, small two person tent. We'll probably bring that and leave the rainfly at the rim.
One question: how do you train for the downhills when you don't have any hills around on which to train? I can train for uphills on the stair climber and treadmill, but don't know how to train for the walk down... I'm stumped.

I don't mean to sound sanguine about the temps. I totally and fully appreciate and have deep respect for the desert in the summer. I grew up in Yuma, AZ (the armpit of AZ ) and have spent many summers camping/hiking in the desert. I am very schooled in the ways of respecting the heat and recognizing my needs. The fact that I've been away from the desert for 10 years has softened me somewhat, but I will most definitely prepare myself the best I'm able to. I am a severe over-planner/over-preparer so I will most certainly err on the side of caution with all endeavors related to the Canyon.

DH and I have been talking, and he has to begin putting in for leave in mid November for the entire following year. IF he's able to get Spring Break week off (mid-March), we will go then, but if not- we will HAVE to go in late May/early June. Darn my school year schedule.
At least it's not July...


Thanks again, everyone, for all your help!!! I sincerely appreciate all the advice, tips, help, websites, etc. Nobody I know in real life has done this, so your help is priceless!

[spokewench]

I live in Flagstaff so I have hiked in the canyon a few times overnight; and more so on day hikes.

It is really hot and dry; do not underestimate the need for water (how hot the water will get) and remember that even if there are noted springs on certain trails at places before you get to the river; some of them do not exist during the summer months. Start early in the morning, even hike before it is light if you have good lights and are not on one of the more adventurous trails.

The good thing is when you are buying your pack; and you are planning on hiking in the summer; you do not need to carry as much so you do not need one of the great big bags! I use a bag that is smaller (I will be at home later and will get the dimensions of the bag). You don't need a sleeping bag in summer in the canyon only a sheet or light blanket; if you plan on camping on the rim, you will need more. I usually don't hike in the heat of the summer in the canyon (don't need to since I live so close) but my husband has. He was amazed at how much harder it was and how hot it really felt like. He was quite fit at the time too.

I don't know of any way to really train for the GC either. It is all up and then all down; so there is nowhere else that you can get that much of a sustained up and down to get used to the GC. I usually try to do as many fitness hikes in the mountains that consist of hiking up and down, but even that won't quite keep you from getting sore. There just really is nothing like the GC!

Remember that even if you get a permit to hike in the summer months, there are warnings on the permits that say something like; this hike is not recommended; it is dangerous and you should not do it! These warnings are not to be taken lightly; it is dangerous in the canyon in the summer

[Tri Girl]

Thanks, Spoke! I'm relieved to know that even someone who lives at altitude and hikes mountains on a regular basis will have trouble. Then again- that frightens me a little bit. I will be working VERY hard this off-season to be as ready as I can. Great advice. Thanks!

I wound up getting this Go Lite bag. It fits good and when loaded with 20 lbs- it feels really good. I know I need to get another 20 in there, but so far so good (I've started walking with it already). I got fitted at a backpacking store (telling them that I probably wouldn't buy it there because I wanted to be honest- and they were very kind so I wound up buying my hiking boots from them), so I had an idea how the pack should fit.

The capacity is about 3800 cubic inches, but appears it will fit everything I need with a little room to spare (for the extra gallon of water in addition to the gallon I have in there).

[Yelsel]

Whew, if you are from Yuma, you really do know about the heat, and have a setup for desert hiking. The main difference is that there is no shade at the bottom of the canyon, not even a creosote to wiggle under (that's why I recommend the tent fly for shade, rather than the main body with netting... you don't even need a tent at night.)

You can put the treadmill at an incline and turn around and walk; I have friends who do this for running. Step-downs (as well as step-ups) with weights / backpack are good practice - and you might be surprised at the difference in strength between your legs. Walking down real stairs, at a stadium. Long series of strength moves - such as single-leg bodyweight squats, or yoga - to develop muscle flexibility and endurance. Also work on building up side leg muscles - adductors and abductors - since biking essentially ignores these. The machines are dangerous, use a low pulley or exercise bands instead (GoFit ProGym is a good home/travel set and only about $25.) The best thing is hiking though!

As a geologist I've done quite a lot of work in the desert; heat really does make one stupid, so I've learned to keep an internal running commentary on what I am doing and what state my body is in, which also helps for recreational hiking.