Average Gal's First Time At Bat

[Biking Bella]

Good Morning!

As many others in this forum section have voiced, "help! I'm new!" - I would like to echo the same chord.

For years back in junior high and high school (I'm 26 now), I used my mountain bike to get myself some fun, exciting exercise around my little town and into the neighboring mountain scape. After two moves, I have let go of my mountain bike and want to get into road biking. I live in the Seattle-metro area now and seeing the bike lanes and trails has me itchy to get back into the swing of cycling!

With every new endeavor, there is a learning curve, which is why I'm coming to you gals for some help! I've been starting my online research and I'm finding that simply typing in "best women's road bikes" won't make it. Haha. As I've been reading on these forums, there is little that can replace a simple stop to your local biking stores to get a glimpse and measured up on what to look for. Aside from this wonderful advice, what other nuggets of wisdom or terminology, etc would you be able to offer me in this time of informational infancy?

As a bit of a side note, I'm 5'6 with average/long legs (as per the jeans I buy!), 110 lbs, with a healthy diet.

Again, many thanks in advance for all the help, consider me a cycling sponge!

[lph]

Ride Lots

Don't skimp on your saddle or your bike shorts, or on being seen in traffic.

Ask lots of questions here as they arise.

And welcome!

[Biking Bella]

Thanks! Appreciate the heads up on keeping my bum safe. Good thought!

The thing I'm concerned about is going to a bike shop and being "oversold" for what I need or not knowing the importance to some terms. Should I be wary of this?

[Cataboo]

Thanks! Appreciate the heads up on keeping my bum safe. Good thought!

The thing I'm concerned about is going to a bike shop and being "oversold" for what I need or not knowing the importance to some terms. Should I be wary of this?

Well... it sounds like you do need a women's specific design given your leg length.

Now you should tell us your price range, and we'll tell you what you should expect to get in that price range component wise. And one of us will suggest that you look on craigslist at used bikes once you get an idea of what fits you so you can maximize what you can afford...

And you should tell us what you want to do - commute, tour, race, or just ride.

If I were getting a road bike - I'd want at least an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork and seat stays... Aluminum is harsh on bumps, the carbon fiber fork & seatstays'll help with that. I'd want at least shimano 105 level components, but people do use tiagra & sora without any issues...

[Biking Bella]

Well... it sounds like you do need a women's specific design given your leg length.

Now you should tell us your price range, and we'll tell you what you should expect to get in that price range component wise. And one of us will suggest that you look on craigslist at used bikes once you get an idea of what fits you so you can maximize what you can afford...

And you should tell us what you want to do - commute, tour, race, or just ride.

If I were getting a road bike - I'd want at least an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork and seat stays... Aluminum is harsh on bumps, the carbon fiber fork & seatstays'll help with that. I'd want at least shimano 105 level components, but people do use tiagra & sora without any issues...

Thanks for the tips and info request Catriona! Let me see if I can answer some of your questions...

Price range - under $1000 USD
Purpose - Just ride, MAYBE commute as work will be less than 7 miles out.
Framework - I definitely follow what you're talking about expect the last sentence. My younger brother used to be into BMX biking when he was younger and I have had friends that race so I know what you mean with the carbon forks and whatnot. Seatstays are another new term to me though.

Any brands that are better than others for reliability and performance?

[ccbloom]

I just went through the whole process of buying. You should be able to get new, old stock with at least Tiagra and above components for $1000, especially since it's the end of season.

After doing a lot of research and reading on the forums, I was dead-set against getting Sora parts, but I eventually ended up with some Sora because price won out and this is my first road bike. I've only had my bike a few weeks, and I haven't had any problems with them. Also, I believe Shimano warranties them for 2 years agains breakage (Sora shifters have a thumb lever which has a tendency to snap). But again, they've been fine for me for a first bike that I paid $500 for. I found a bike for $950 with 105 shifters, and while they were very nice, I couldn't justify the doubling of price. For me, it was more important to get a decent bike, get out there and ride it for a couple years and make sure I loved riding, and then when I know more of what to look for in a more expensive bike for my riding style, I'll spend the money. That's how I thought of it anyways.

[Cataboo]

The only caution I'd have against sora is that some people can't manage to shift gears in the drops because of the thumb lever... If you're not planning on riding or shifting in the drops much, this doesn't matter... If you are, then you should probably check whether or not your thumb can manage this.

At below $1,000 - I'd aim for carbon seat stays (I find that it makes a huge difference on bumps or stopping hand numbness) & fork with an aluminum frame or steel frame... if you can get 105 looking at older new old stock bikes or used bikes, great. Otherwise tiagra's slightly higher end than sora and most people can shift from the drops with it.

Steel would be a heavier option & some people prefer the ride of steel - I think the jamis aurora would be in your price range, and in general jamis is supposed to have bikes that are good value for the componentry level. I think at your price range, you're unlikely to find a full carbon or titanium frame unless you luck out looking at used bikes (can be done, but sometimes takes a lot of patience)

Otherwise - I wouldn't necessarily steer you against or for any brand, just find the best fit that you can with the components you want.

Componentry for road shimano goes sora, tiagra, 105, ultegra, and dura ace. SRAM and campy also make nice components.

I know the last time I was in REI, they did have some sales going on bikes - but you may or may not have good "help" from the sales staff there on fitting.

[aicabsolut]

For under $1000, I would look at aluminum and steel frames. For road bikes, there are a few major price points. $1000 and under, around $2000, and then much over $2000. The $2000 price point will get you an entry level carbon bike with decent components. Or it could get you a good aluminum frame like the CAAD9 with slightly better components. The farther over $2000 that you go, the more you will start to see diminishing performance returns for your dollar. Similarly, the cheaper you go, the wider the jumps in performance for the buck.

There's a lot of debate about how carbon in the rear triangle affects comfort of an aluminum bike. Some companies like to put it in the seat stays. Some in the chain stays. Some say it doesn't help at all if you can just get a nice stiff frame (like the CAAD9). I think that carbon in the rear is less for compliance and more for stiffness. Carbon in the fork is for stiffness and, therefore, smoothness of the ride.

I think that components are really important. If you're going to be hating your bike because shifting or braking is difficult, or if you're going to be annoyed because you tend to drop your chain or have to take it in frequently for derailleur tune ups, then you won't want to ride it. Better components will make your ride less of a hassle. If you're not going to be racing, then you won't necessarily notice that your bike isn't the stiffest or lightest thing out there. Also the wheels at that price point are all going to be about the same--heavy and tough but not helping you a lot in performance. Get the best parts you can afford on a decent frame. Look for new old stock and end of season (now) sales.

Shimano makes some cheap component groups, and their performance really lacks versus the high end stuff. You won't find so much of a performance gap in Campy and definitely not in SRAM. SRAM Rival is some of the best value stuff out there, IMO. Functionally, Campy and SRAM tend to be pretty equivalent throughout the ranks. Weight and bling are the biggest improvements between groups, I think. I'm not sure that Rival comes on $1k bikes, though...I haven't really looked other than for team deal stuff.

Most importantly, make sure you fit the bike. Test ride a lot of bikes.

[Owlie]

My bike is mostly Sora, and I definitely can't reach the thumb lever from the drops. For me, it doesn't particularly matter, because I'm never actually in the drops unless I'm going downhill. Your mileage may vary.

ccbloom, I pretty much bought my lower-end bike for that reason. I could have afforded the 105-equipped version (same frame, better wheels), but it's my first road bike, and I couldn't justify the extra expense, and it was More Bike than I wanted at the time.

[Cataboo]

I recommended carbon fiber seatstays, because with completely aluminum frames, my wrists go numb pretty quickly. Carbon fiber seatstays made a huge difference in that for me. But I have kind of crappy wrists to begin with.

[Biking Bella]

Wow ladies! Thank you all for the great advice and forethought on all of this. I can't tell you all of the notes I have been scribbling down and pieces of research I have been doing.

I will say that the area I'm living in is hilly, so I'm wondering if having a heavier steel frame is that great of an idea - more work to get up the hill, right? And yes, I know I'm in this for the workout and I'm not trying to cheat, just asking! haha

The shifters that I've been looking up (105's, not the thumb shifters) are pretty neat looking. The DA's are too shiny for me. Again, like others have said, for a beginner bike, it can be a big expense that isn't justifible off the bat.

Beginners...we all had to start somewhere, right? Well, thanks for making this "beginner's experience" one that wasn't done alone. It means a lot that you are all willing to dump whatever insight on me that you can - keep it up! I'm all ears!

If I go to a shop, what are some good questions to ask in your opinion(s)?

[Yelsel]

At your price range, you should take a look at steel. It absorbs road buzz better than aluminum or carbon, and the difference in weight between an aluminum and steel frame these days is nominal. (Steel is heavier, but also stronger; you can make very thin-walled bikes, and use different thicknesses in different parts of the bike for strength. New alloys on the market are *very* good - high quality steel bikes are now as light as titanium bikes). Also, just like boots and hiking -- it is the rotational weight that matters the most on a bike. Upgrade by buying lighter wheels; that is where the weight really matters. I have an old Bianchi steel bike as my roadie, and she can go. Someday I want a very high-end steel frame custom-built for me -- lugs, custom paint, the works -- the nice thing is that the bike will not be that much more expensive than a stock carbon-fibre bike.

Also, are you looking for the fastest road bike you can get for your money, or a better all-around bike? Many entry level "cyclocross" bikes are more like chameleons - good for commuting, light 1-2 week touring, centuries/endurance rides, fireroad to easy singletrack, and laid-back club rides. Swapping out lighter wheels and skinny tires, even faster club rides. I have a bike built on a Bianchi Volpe frame (steel), and I love it. Eventually I will replace with a Surly Express Check or Co Motion bike -- these have couplers built into the frame, so that it can be taken on the plane as regular cargo.

Jamis has great steel bicycles, and there are tons of smaller manufacturers too that specialize in steel, such as Surly.

REI has the Camera Pro on sale, but online they only have smaller bikes. It is possible one of your local stores might have one in your size in stock. It has carbon seatstays and 105 components, for $950 on sale.

[Owlie]

Remember to set aside some of your budget for a new saddle. Stock ones aren't comfy (generally speaking)!

[Biking Bella]

Thanks so much for all of the help again, ladies. It's much appreciated!

No, I don't need something that is going racing material, but I don't want it to be a slug either. Then again, the bike will only go as fast as your legs will push it, right? haha.

The steel weight comparison is definitely interesting, I'll check into that!

Yes, a saddle is important as is bike shorts as mentioned before. I also found out while looking at a local bike store that not all bikes have pedals! Cannondale was the brand I believe. So, unless I go with the $10 flat pedal, I better budget for shoes with that too!

Thanks again, ladies! Keep it up! This is great!!!

[Crankin]

I do think the component level is important. My first road bike had Tiagra and 105's. I never, ever could get it in the big ring and I dropped the chain constantly. This continued for the whole time I had the bike, even after I had passed the "learning curve" for knowing the right gear combinations. While the bike fit me, I hated it. When I got a new bike, it had Ultegra, but since this was a few years ago, an older version. The front der. was always finicky. Again, I couldn't shift into the big ring and one time I had to commute home from work in the granny gear the whole way! Finally, after 6 months, my DH replaced the front der. with Dura Ace. This was a full carbon bike that cost a little over 2K. It took quite awhile to finally get components that worked!