Average Gal's First Time At Bat

[Cataboo]

The only caution I'd have against sora is that some people can't manage to shift gears in the drops because of the thumb lever... If you're not planning on riding or shifting in the drops much, this doesn't matter... If you are, then you should probably check whether or not your thumb can manage this.

At below $1,000 - I'd aim for carbon seat stays (I find that it makes a huge difference on bumps or stopping hand numbness) & fork with an aluminum frame or steel frame... if you can get 105 looking at older new old stock bikes or used bikes, great. Otherwise tiagra's slightly higher end than sora and most people can shift from the drops with it.

Steel would be a heavier option & some people prefer the ride of steel - I think the jamis aurora would be in your price range, and in general jamis is supposed to have bikes that are good value for the componentry level. I think at your price range, you're unlikely to find a full carbon or titanium frame unless you luck out looking at used bikes (can be done, but sometimes takes a lot of patience)

Otherwise - I wouldn't necessarily steer you against or for any brand, just find the best fit that you can with the components you want.

Componentry for road shimano goes sora, tiagra, 105, ultegra, and dura ace. SRAM and campy also make nice components.

I know the last time I was in REI, they did have some sales going on bikes - but you may or may not have good "help" from the sales staff there on fitting.

[aicabsolut]

For under $1000, I would look at aluminum and steel frames. For road bikes, there are a few major price points. $1000 and under, around $2000, and then much over $2000. The $2000 price point will get you an entry level carbon bike with decent components. Or it could get you a good aluminum frame like the CAAD9 with slightly better components. The farther over $2000 that you go, the more you will start to see diminishing performance returns for your dollar. Similarly, the cheaper you go, the wider the jumps in performance for the buck.

There's a lot of debate about how carbon in the rear triangle affects comfort of an aluminum bike. Some companies like to put it in the seat stays. Some in the chain stays. Some say it doesn't help at all if you can just get a nice stiff frame (like the CAAD9). I think that carbon in the rear is less for compliance and more for stiffness. Carbon in the fork is for stiffness and, therefore, smoothness of the ride.

I think that components are really important. If you're going to be hating your bike because shifting or braking is difficult, or if you're going to be annoyed because you tend to drop your chain or have to take it in frequently for derailleur tune ups, then you won't want to ride it. Better components will make your ride less of a hassle. If you're not going to be racing, then you won't necessarily notice that your bike isn't the stiffest or lightest thing out there. Also the wheels at that price point are all going to be about the same--heavy and tough but not helping you a lot in performance. Get the best parts you can afford on a decent frame. Look for new old stock and end of season (now) sales.

Shimano makes some cheap component groups, and their performance really lacks versus the high end stuff. You won't find so much of a performance gap in Campy and definitely not in SRAM. SRAM Rival is some of the best value stuff out there, IMO. Functionally, Campy and SRAM tend to be pretty equivalent throughout the ranks. Weight and bling are the biggest improvements between groups, I think. I'm not sure that Rival comes on $1k bikes, though...I haven't really looked other than for team deal stuff.

Most importantly, make sure you fit the bike. Test ride a lot of bikes.

[Cataboo]

I recommended carbon fiber seatstays, because with completely aluminum frames, my wrists go numb pretty quickly. Carbon fiber seatstays made a huge difference in that for me. But I have kind of crappy wrists to begin with.

[Biking Bella]

Wow ladies! Thank you all for the great advice and forethought on all of this. I can't tell you all of the notes I have been scribbling down and pieces of research I have been doing.

I will say that the area I'm living in is hilly, so I'm wondering if having a heavier steel frame is that great of an idea - more work to get up the hill, right? And yes, I know I'm in this for the workout and I'm not trying to cheat, just asking! haha

The shifters that I've been looking up (105's, not the thumb shifters) are pretty neat looking. The DA's are too shiny for me. Again, like others have said, for a beginner bike, it can be a big expense that isn't justifible off the bat.

Beginners...we all had to start somewhere, right? Well, thanks for making this "beginner's experience" one that wasn't done alone. It means a lot that you are all willing to dump whatever insight on me that you can - keep it up! I'm all ears!

If I go to a shop, what are some good questions to ask in your opinion(s)?

[Yelsel]

At your price range, you should take a look at steel. It absorbs road buzz better than aluminum or carbon, and the difference in weight between an aluminum and steel frame these days is nominal. (Steel is heavier, but also stronger; you can make very thin-walled bikes, and use different thicknesses in different parts of the bike for strength. New alloys on the market are *very* good - high quality steel bikes are now as light as titanium bikes). Also, just like boots and hiking -- it is the rotational weight that matters the most on a bike. Upgrade by buying lighter wheels; that is where the weight really matters. I have an old Bianchi steel bike as my roadie, and she can go. Someday I want a very high-end steel frame custom-built for me -- lugs, custom paint, the works -- the nice thing is that the bike will not be that much more expensive than a stock carbon-fibre bike.

Also, are you looking for the fastest road bike you can get for your money, or a better all-around bike? Many entry level "cyclocross" bikes are more like chameleons - good for commuting, light 1-2 week touring, centuries/endurance rides, fireroad to easy singletrack, and laid-back club rides. Swapping out lighter wheels and skinny tires, even faster club rides. I have a bike built on a Bianchi Volpe frame (steel), and I love it. Eventually I will replace with a Surly Express Check or Co Motion bike -- these have couplers built into the frame, so that it can be taken on the plane as regular cargo.

Jamis has great steel bicycles, and there are tons of smaller manufacturers too that specialize in steel, such as Surly.

REI has the Camera Pro on sale, but online they only have smaller bikes. It is possible one of your local stores might have one in your size in stock. It has carbon seatstays and 105 components, for $950 on sale.

[Owlie]

Remember to set aside some of your budget for a new saddle. Stock ones aren't comfy (generally speaking)!

[Biking Bella]

Thanks so much for all of the help again, ladies. It's much appreciated!

No, I don't need something that is going racing material, but I don't want it to be a slug either. Then again, the bike will only go as fast as your legs will push it, right? haha.

The steel weight comparison is definitely interesting, I'll check into that!

Yes, a saddle is important as is bike shorts as mentioned before. I also found out while looking at a local bike store that not all bikes have pedals! Cannondale was the brand I believe. So, unless I go with the $10 flat pedal, I better budget for shoes with that too!

Thanks again, ladies! Keep it up! This is great!!!

[Owlie]

My bike is mostly Sora, and I definitely can't reach the thumb lever from the drops. For me, it doesn't particularly matter, because I'm never actually in the drops unless I'm going downhill. Your mileage may vary.

ccbloom, I pretty much bought my lower-end bike for that reason. I could have afforded the 105-equipped version (same frame, better wheels), but it's my first road bike, and I couldn't justify the extra expense, and it was More Bike than I wanted at the time.