Average Gal's First Time At Bat

[Cataboo]

Thanks! Appreciate the heads up on keeping my bum safe. Good thought!

The thing I'm concerned about is going to a bike shop and being "oversold" for what I need or not knowing the importance to some terms. Should I be wary of this?

Well... it sounds like you do need a women's specific design given your leg length.

Now you should tell us your price range, and we'll tell you what you should expect to get in that price range component wise. And one of us will suggest that you look on craigslist at used bikes once you get an idea of what fits you so you can maximize what you can afford...

And you should tell us what you want to do - commute, tour, race, or just ride.

If I were getting a road bike - I'd want at least an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork and seat stays... Aluminum is harsh on bumps, the carbon fiber fork & seatstays'll help with that. I'd want at least shimano 105 level components, but people do use tiagra & sora without any issues...

[Biking Bella]

Well... it sounds like you do need a women's specific design given your leg length.

Now you should tell us your price range, and we'll tell you what you should expect to get in that price range component wise. And one of us will suggest that you look on craigslist at used bikes once you get an idea of what fits you so you can maximize what you can afford...

And you should tell us what you want to do - commute, tour, race, or just ride.

If I were getting a road bike - I'd want at least an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork and seat stays... Aluminum is harsh on bumps, the carbon fiber fork & seatstays'll help with that. I'd want at least shimano 105 level components, but people do use tiagra & sora without any issues...

Thanks for the tips and info request Catriona! Let me see if I can answer some of your questions...

Price range - under $1000 USD
Purpose - Just ride, MAYBE commute as work will be less than 7 miles out.
Framework - I definitely follow what you're talking about expect the last sentence. My younger brother used to be into BMX biking when he was younger and I have had friends that race so I know what you mean with the carbon forks and whatnot. Seatstays are another new term to me though.

Any brands that are better than others for reliability and performance?

[ccbloom]

I just went through the whole process of buying. You should be able to get new, old stock with at least Tiagra and above components for $1000, especially since it's the end of season.

After doing a lot of research and reading on the forums, I was dead-set against getting Sora parts, but I eventually ended up with some Sora because price won out and this is my first road bike. I've only had my bike a few weeks, and I haven't had any problems with them. Also, I believe Shimano warranties them for 2 years agains breakage (Sora shifters have a thumb lever which has a tendency to snap). But again, they've been fine for me for a first bike that I paid $500 for. I found a bike for $950 with 105 shifters, and while they were very nice, I couldn't justify the doubling of price. For me, it was more important to get a decent bike, get out there and ride it for a couple years and make sure I loved riding, and then when I know more of what to look for in a more expensive bike for my riding style, I'll spend the money. That's how I thought of it anyways.

[Cataboo]

The only caution I'd have against sora is that some people can't manage to shift gears in the drops because of the thumb lever... If you're not planning on riding or shifting in the drops much, this doesn't matter... If you are, then you should probably check whether or not your thumb can manage this.

At below $1,000 - I'd aim for carbon seat stays (I find that it makes a huge difference on bumps or stopping hand numbness) & fork with an aluminum frame or steel frame... if you can get 105 looking at older new old stock bikes or used bikes, great. Otherwise tiagra's slightly higher end than sora and most people can shift from the drops with it.

Steel would be a heavier option & some people prefer the ride of steel - I think the jamis aurora would be in your price range, and in general jamis is supposed to have bikes that are good value for the componentry level. I think at your price range, you're unlikely to find a full carbon or titanium frame unless you luck out looking at used bikes (can be done, but sometimes takes a lot of patience)

Otherwise - I wouldn't necessarily steer you against or for any brand, just find the best fit that you can with the components you want.

Componentry for road shimano goes sora, tiagra, 105, ultegra, and dura ace. SRAM and campy also make nice components.

I know the last time I was in REI, they did have some sales going on bikes - but you may or may not have good "help" from the sales staff there on fitting.

[aicabsolut]

For under $1000, I would look at aluminum and steel frames. For road bikes, there are a few major price points. $1000 and under, around $2000, and then much over $2000. The $2000 price point will get you an entry level carbon bike with decent components. Or it could get you a good aluminum frame like the CAAD9 with slightly better components. The farther over $2000 that you go, the more you will start to see diminishing performance returns for your dollar. Similarly, the cheaper you go, the wider the jumps in performance for the buck.

There's a lot of debate about how carbon in the rear triangle affects comfort of an aluminum bike. Some companies like to put it in the seat stays. Some in the chain stays. Some say it doesn't help at all if you can just get a nice stiff frame (like the CAAD9). I think that carbon in the rear is less for compliance and more for stiffness. Carbon in the fork is for stiffness and, therefore, smoothness of the ride.

I think that components are really important. If you're going to be hating your bike because shifting or braking is difficult, or if you're going to be annoyed because you tend to drop your chain or have to take it in frequently for derailleur tune ups, then you won't want to ride it. Better components will make your ride less of a hassle. If you're not going to be racing, then you won't necessarily notice that your bike isn't the stiffest or lightest thing out there. Also the wheels at that price point are all going to be about the same--heavy and tough but not helping you a lot in performance. Get the best parts you can afford on a decent frame. Look for new old stock and end of season (now) sales.

Shimano makes some cheap component groups, and their performance really lacks versus the high end stuff. You won't find so much of a performance gap in Campy and definitely not in SRAM. SRAM Rival is some of the best value stuff out there, IMO. Functionally, Campy and SRAM tend to be pretty equivalent throughout the ranks. Weight and bling are the biggest improvements between groups, I think. I'm not sure that Rival comes on $1k bikes, though...I haven't really looked other than for team deal stuff.

Most importantly, make sure you fit the bike. Test ride a lot of bikes.

[Cataboo]

I recommended carbon fiber seatstays, because with completely aluminum frames, my wrists go numb pretty quickly. Carbon fiber seatstays made a huge difference in that for me. But I have kind of crappy wrists to begin with.

[Biking Bella]

Wow ladies! Thank you all for the great advice and forethought on all of this. I can't tell you all of the notes I have been scribbling down and pieces of research I have been doing.

I will say that the area I'm living in is hilly, so I'm wondering if having a heavier steel frame is that great of an idea - more work to get up the hill, right? And yes, I know I'm in this for the workout and I'm not trying to cheat, just asking! haha

The shifters that I've been looking up (105's, not the thumb shifters) are pretty neat looking. The DA's are too shiny for me. Again, like others have said, for a beginner bike, it can be a big expense that isn't justifible off the bat.

Beginners...we all had to start somewhere, right? Well, thanks for making this "beginner's experience" one that wasn't done alone. It means a lot that you are all willing to dump whatever insight on me that you can - keep it up! I'm all ears!

If I go to a shop, what are some good questions to ask in your opinion(s)?

[Owlie]

My bike is mostly Sora, and I definitely can't reach the thumb lever from the drops. For me, it doesn't particularly matter, because I'm never actually in the drops unless I'm going downhill. Your mileage may vary.

ccbloom, I pretty much bought my lower-end bike for that reason. I could have afforded the 105-equipped version (same frame, better wheels), but it's my first road bike, and I couldn't justify the extra expense, and it was More Bike than I wanted at the time.