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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ohio
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    167
    Quote Originally Posted by aicabsolut View Post
    ...Just changing your cassette will make a big difference. ... You might want to do one or the other at first. I'm not sure how badly you're struggling with your current setup. ...If you go compact, do that with your current cassette first. Then see if maybe you'd want a 12-25, 12-26, 12-27, 12-28, 13-29, etc.
    The best example of what I need may be reflected in my ride the day before. I was going up an escarpment. I down shifted to the 39 and 23-- my lowest gearing. I couldn't spin at this point and I felt like I was mashing big time. I was bearing down and the chain actually skipped several times (another issue) and I thought I was going to do some damage. If I could have just had a bit of lower gearing than it would have been more pleasurable. I've priced compact cranks and cassettes, and for the most part the prices are close. The newer compact Tru cranks seem to be mostly 50-36. I have spotted some old new stock 50-34 though. So with that, just to gain some lower gearing, which would I swap out if I had to choose just one, crank or cassette?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,011
    switching your cassette:

    53/39 - 13-29 2.6%

    switching your chainrings:

    50/34 - 12-23 2.9%

    lower ratio is obtained with just switching the cassette

    (BTW if you decide to do the chainrings....50/36 - 12-23 3.1% recommending the 50/34 if you can get it)
    Last edited by silver; 09-07-2009 at 05:34 PM.
    "Being retired from Biking...isn't that kinda like being retired from recess?" Stephen Colbert asked of Lance Armstrong

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    167
    Thanks for you patience doing the math silver. I am glad you find it fun! Well, I am thisclose on making the switch. Saw this posted in a thread on another forum and it does appear interesting. Is anyone here familiar with this crank? It looks to be a 52-24 crank:
    http://www.whiteind.com/cranks/roadcranks.html

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Bendemonium
    Posts
    9,673
    Is anyone recommending that you use a 24-52 combo?????? That is an incredibly wide range to pair.

    The size rings WI lists are just the different size rings they sell which are compatible with that crank.

    There are a whole host of things that go into a properly functioning drivetrain. For instance, the front dérailleur must match ring curvature (determined by the ring diameter) and the rear dérailleur must be able to take up chain slack (calculating by chain wrap). Do some research on dérailleur capacity for your brand of component.
    Last edited by SadieKate; 09-08-2009 at 05:18 PM.
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    hmmmmmm it looks like you could possibly order that crank with a 52 outer and 24 inner, but I would think that would not be such a good idea. With a difference that great in the rings shifting would be a real bear... you'd really be pulling hard to get the chain up from the small ring to the big one and when you shifted down the drop would be so big that you'd probably drop your chain a lot... I'm looking around for the biggest suggested difference between inner and outer rings.
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Bendemonium
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    The rule of thumb I've been given is 10-12 tooth max difference between rings for the snappiest shifting. This is part of the reason there was a real lapse in the performance of shifting on compact doubles, the 16 tooth jump. Until recently many front derailleurs just weren't designed for this gap, hence the intro of derailleurs designed for compact doubles.
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    I have doubts that a 28 tooth difference would shift at all.... on my old bike with a triple it was *hard* to shift from the 30 to the 42 and that's only a 12 tooth difference.
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

    visit my flickr stream http://flic.kr/ps/MMu5N

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Bendemonium
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    I went back and noticed that the drivetrain is Campy. Definitely stick with 10-12 tooth gaps max.

    Look at a nice polished Sugino triple with 46-36-26. This should give you a nice set of climbing gears while still maintaining the tight cogs set for flat land riding. You will need a new bottom bracket but you can get some nice quality JIS taper BB's for a reasonable price.
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/cranks/11074.html

    For upscale cranks, you can look at TA cranks from Peter White and customize the ring choices even more.
    http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/carmina.asp

    Here is info on calculating your derailleur capacity
    Chain Capacity and Cage Length
    http://branfordbike.com/page.cfm?pageID=62
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Bendemonium
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eden View Post
    I have doubts that a 28 tooth difference would shift at all.... on my old bike with a triple it was *hard* to shift from the 30 to the 42 and that's only a 12 tooth difference.
    Yeah, typically the smallest ring to the middle ring should only be 10 while you can go to a 12T gap between middle and big.
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

 

 

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