Bike fit woes

**Drtgirl** · 07-21-2009, 06:32 PM

So I was messing around with my new bike yesterday and had my hubby take a photo. I haven't had time to go to a shop or get a fitting yet. What can I do to move my body forward over the front wheel? It seems like the fork rake is kind of strange and is pushing the wheel forward too far. Steep climbs are not good as the front wheel wants to lift up.

**Becky** · 07-22-2009, 03:58 AM

Just eyeballing from the photo, I think the fit looks ok. Or at least similar to the way my MTB is set up. Flipping your stem over should give you a little more saddle to bar drop, and cause your weight to shift forward a touch.

What's the head tube angle on this frame?

**pinkbikes** · 07-22-2009, 05:06 AM

Just looking at your setup there it looks like your knee over pedal spindle (KOPS) is a little far back compared to where my bike fitter would set you up. If you look at the spot just under your knee cap and drop it down vertically, it looks like it lands well behind your pedal spindle.

While traditionally it is thought that the "best" set-up is with the knee directly over the pedal spindle, the fit guru who did my bike setup when I got my new MTB set me up with my knee slightly in front of the pedal spindle (maybe a half an inch?). I peppered him with quesions and he said he likes to set women up this way (he is a bit of a specialist with fitting women) because it gives them climbing advantage (through better leverage over the pedal and shifting the weight forward) which is generally where women need a little extra advantage.

I suspect that you will find shifting your seat forward a little to get your knee at least to a KOPS position will give you more weight over the front and better climbing performance.

If it is just a trick of the photo and you are already in a KOPS position, ignore all the above! LOL!

**Becky** · 07-22-2009, 08:15 AM

I took a closer look at the geometry charts for the carbon blur xc and the aluminum one. The thing that jumped out at me is that the carbon Blur has a slacker head tube angle, which probably explains the feeling of the front wheel being too far in front. On the other hand, it should make for better handling on descents and gnarlier terrain.

Good luck getting this sorted out! What a sweet bike- ride it like you stole it!

**Drtgirl** · 07-22-2009, 10:47 AM

Becky- the bike is awesome on the descents (which I used to hate) so that's a plus. My stem is 0 degree rise, but I can lower it down a spacer.

It's amazing how a degree or two in the head tube can make such a difference in the fit/ride!

**Becky** · 07-22-2009, 11:00 AM

Originally Posted by Drtgirl

Becky- the bike is awesome on the descents (which I used to hate) so that's a plus. My stem is 0 degree rise, but I can lower it down a spacer.

It's amazing how a degree or two in the head tube can make such a difference in the fit/ride!

Bike geometry truly amazes me. Like you said, a little change in an angle can make for a huge difference in the feel of a bike!

Head tube angle is probably my one complaint about my GT- it climbs pretty well, but it has a HTA of 71 degrees, so it's a little twitchy on descents. Oh well, it's an XC bike- I knew that when I bought it.

I like the spacer idea. There's always the possibility of trying a stem w/ negative rise too.

**Irulan** · 07-22-2009, 11:45 AM

Have you tried anything with modifying your climbing technique? More slack geometry requires some intentionality ( is that a word?) in regards to chest down, scootching forward on the saddle some. How much travel in the fork? A longer travel fork combined with geometry with affect this too.

What were you on before? It can take some time and just messing around with how you ride to get the hang of a new bike.

There were some other threads on this section a couple of weeks ago where the whole kops thing vs tops tube length was discussed
http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showthread.php?t=31988

I'd ride it for a couple a weeks before I go changing out the stem.

**fatbottomedgurl** · 07-22-2009, 07:30 PM

I agrre w/ Irulan- look how straight your arms are- your elbows are locked. When climbing you need to BEND your elbows and get your b**bs to the bar, so to speak. That plus scooching forward a little on the seat. If your fork has three positions, drop it to the lowest for climbs.

**Pedal Wench** · 07-22-2009, 07:37 PM

Originally Posted by fatbottomedgurl

When climbing you need to BEND your elbows and get your b**bs to the bar, so to speak.

Round here, we say, "b**bs to the tube" - chest to the top tube...

**mumbles** · 07-31-2009, 04:38 AM

I had the same problem with my hifi when I first got it, trying to pop wheelies going uphill. Not a problem now, think you just have to learn to lean forward/down more and slide your seat up a bit.

**Andrea** · 07-31-2009, 01:00 PM

Wheels are too small

**lunacycles** · 07-31-2009, 04:45 PM

That bike as set up looks too small to me. I'd try a longer stem with perhaps less rise. I am not sure what fork rake has to do with it (?). Things like twitchiness don't really have a whole lot to do with head angle alone, or rake alone. It is the combination of fork rake and head angle (= "trail") that determines how the front end of a bike handles. How much weight (percentage wise) you have over the front end of the bike also affects the whole front end handling scenario. I am only speaking from the perspective of the image: you look too scrunched up to me, and that can be (at least partially) remedied by going with a longer stem.

Also, don't lock your elbows!!!!

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