Derailleur adjustment with compact crank

[lunacycles]

I always found my race wheels and training wheels were a bit different in terms of where the outer edge of the small cog sat in relation to the hub locknut, and shifting problems resulted. If this dimension is even .5mm different, you will have shifting problems when you switch from one wheelset to the other. It seems to me you need to have confidence about rear derailleur adjustment to deal with this regularly. You will probably have to re-adjust the high gear limit screw and the low gear limit screw to achieve precise shifting when you swap out wheels. Assuming you are using the same brand cassette on both wheels, you should NOT have to mess with the barrel adjuster. The barrel adjuster (cable tension) controls the distance the derailleur moves with each shift, and that should stay constant if you are using the same brand cassette on both wheels.

[aicabsolut]

Yeah, that's true, but she's having issues at the middle of the cassette for shifting when she switches wheelsets, so there the fix probably wouldn't be the limits. It's possible to be the B screw if the derailleur isn't aligned straight around the 3rd or 4th cog from the small end, but skipping over a cog sounds like cable problems or operator error.

[HillSlugger]

Yeah, that's true, but she's having issues at the middle of the cassette for shifting when she switches wheelsets, so there the fix probably wouldn't be the limits. It's possible to be the B screw if the derailleur isn't aligned straight around the 3rd or 4th cog from the small end, but skipping over a cog sounds like cable problems or operator error.

It feels to me like a cable tension issue. I can finesse it into place if I play with the lever.

I raced on the bike today, stayed in the big ring the whole time, and had no shifting issues. I love that bike!