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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    MD suburb of Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,832
    Quote Originally Posted by MDHillSlug View Post
    I had the bike in my car so I could take it by the LBS; the alignment looks good to me.

    Anyway, I swung over to the LBS after work. The wonderful mechanics there took a look at it right away, made some adjustments on the spot, and returned the bike to me. Hopefully this will work.

    When I wheeled the bike into the store one of the staff said "Wow, what is that? I've never seen a bike like that!" This really made me smile
    Is this your tri bike you're fiddling with? Did you take it to Proteus or somewhere else?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Olney, MD
    Posts
    3,063
    Yes, the tri bike. I took it to City Bikes since they are the most convenient for me.
    I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
    --===--

    2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
    2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
    2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
    2011 Trek Mamba 29er

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,315
    If you still have problems, bring it to me. I've used 105, Ultegra, and DA front derailleurs on FSA and DA cranks. The 105 or ultegra setup on the FSA cranks with a clamp-on FD was the most finicky. The DA/DA braze-on match is amazingly awesome. But, if it's an alignment issue, I will be able to fix it. I usually have to totally re-do the FD on the FSA bike after the shop messes with it. So, I learned how to do it pretty well. If the cage needs to be moved, it can be a pain. You don't have as much range with a braze-on, but it can be moved a little bit.

    However, I'm thinking that since this is your tri bike with non-indexed shifting in the front, some of it is going to be user error. Maybe you aren't used to the throw of the lever yet. Some compacts are a little more finicky about what rear cog you're in when you shift (are you any more successful shifting from the smaller end of the cassette?). Even so, it should be relatively rare to get the chain to go off to the outside if the FD is adjusted right. It's a lot more common to have drop to the inside with a compact.

    You might try re-setting the limit and then tightening the cable tension if it gets a little sluggish. Adjust the FD upper limit screw a TINY bit at a time, and while you're in the little ring.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    959

    Derailleur adjustment with compact crank

    Lots of great advice here! Working with a compact crank does take a bit more time, but I'm sure that your LBS will get it right. Have fun with the new crank!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Olney, MD
    Posts
    3,063
    Instead of doing my Wednesday bike commute I took the tri bike out for a test ride this morning. The good news: no dropped chains! The bad news: I sometimes had trouble getting the chain to go onto the large ring and if I was on the large ring and using the two smallest cogs I had FD chain rub and couldn't trim out to stop it. Obviously I need to move the limit out a tiny bit. Do you think I should do this right away or wait until after my next ride on Saturday? And the stupid question so I can get it right the first time: to move the cage out do I loosen or tighten the limit screw?
    I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
    --===--

    2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
    2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
    2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
    2011 Trek Mamba 29er

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    2,698
    Quote Originally Posted by MDHillSlug View Post
    Instead of doing my Wednesday bike commute I took the tri bike out for a test ride this morning. The good news: no dropped chains! The bad news: I sometimes had trouble getting the chain to go onto the large ring and if I was on the large ring and using the two smallest cogs I had FD chain rub and couldn't trim out to stop it. Obviously I need to move the limit out a tiny bit. Do you think I should do this right away or wait until after my next ride on Saturday? And the stupid question so I can get it right the first time: to move the cage out do I loosen or tighten the limit screw?
    Don't touch the limt screw (except maybe a tiny bit looser to improve shifting to the big ring)! One of the limitations of a compact is that, when you're cross-chained small to small, the chain will drag across the teeth of the large ring. Just don't cross-chain and you'll be fine

    I can get to about the third cog from the bottom (14T) with the help of the trim before my chain drags on the large ring. I try to shift to the large ring sooner (15T or 17T), depending on cadence and terrain, but the best laid plans....
    Last edited by Becky; 06-24-2009 at 06:02 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Olney, MD
    Posts
    3,063
    Quote Originally Posted by Becky View Post
    Don't touch the limt screw (except maybe a tiny bit looser to improve shifting to the big ring)! One of the limitations of a compact is that, when you're cross-chained small to small, the chain will drag across the teeth of the large ring. Just don't cross-chain and you'll be fine

    I can get to about the third cog from the bottom (14T) with the help of the trim before my chain drags on the large ring. I try to shift to the large ring sooner (15T or 17T), depending on cadence and terrain, but the best laid plans....
    No, I was big/small, not crosschained.

    BTW, when I was at the LBS the wrench told me that my chain was a bit too short because he couldn't get it to go big/big. I pointed out that I shouldn't ever be big/big!
    I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
    --===--

    2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
    2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
    2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
    2011 Trek Mamba 29er

 

 

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