Need road bike fit help - I'm getting desperate!

[sundial]

I have ridden both 44cm and 48cm Specialized Ruby's, from the Elite to the Expert. The reach on the 48cm was too long, but I'm concerned that the saddle height to handlebar height is too much of a drop on the 44cm, though I understand that a different stem might work, but I'm not sure if it will work enough.

Couple things came to mind after reading about your bike fitting experience.

Specialized puts a stock 100 mm stem on their bikes. You can buy a shorter, adjustable stem and that will help bring you closer and more upright relative to the handlebar. However, the shorter the stem the quirkier the handling, particularly when you are cornering. Also, your seatpost is most likely a setback, which puts you back about an inch further than a straight seatpost. Changing that will help bring you closer to the handlebars and put less pressure on your wrists, shoulders, and neck.

The brakes can be shimmed so that reach it shorter. I've added shims to mine and it made it a lot nicer.

Another thought--have you looked at a Terry bike? They can ship it to your local bike shop and you can test ride it for a period. If it doesn't fit, your bike shop can ship it back and you are out a minimal fee. If you have questions about fit, e-mail Georgena Terry and she will usually promptly reply to your questions. I don't usually recommend ordering a bike without first test riding it, but if you are having trouble finding a bike that fits, you may have to resort to more drastic measures.

A custom made bike won't necessarily put you out more money than a stock bike on the floor of your lbs. It will fit you better and really, that's what it all boils down to. If it doesn't fit, you won't ride.

Good luck with your search and hope this helps.

[MartianDestiny]

Also, your seatpost is most likely a setback, which puts you back about an inch further than a straight seatpost. Changing that will help bring you closer to the handlebars and put less pressure on your wrists, shoulders, and neck. .

You should NOT change your seat position to make up for reach. You'll just end up moving the problem to your legs. If a bike shop tries to do this and they are not looking for knee/ball of foot/pedal alignment run away. Different seat posts allow you to get the proper position relative to the *crank* for optimal power to the cranks and to prevent injury to your knees, etc.

If you can't adjust reach from the correct saddle position using stem and bar swaps the bike doesn't fit you.

Otherwise Sundial's post about small changes being able to make a big difference is very true.

[ms1]

After about 6 months of trying to find the right road bike, the right bike shop and the right help at the right shop, I bought a 2009 47 cm Trek Madone 4.5 wsd and I'm in love with it.

I didn't really believe everyone saying how important the right LBS, but now I'm a true believer. Bob at Guy's Bicycles outside Phila is a genius. He worked patiently with me and ultimately swapped out the stem, handlebars and break levers (to short reach levers).

Thanks to everyone for their wonderful advice.

[Biciclista]

nice bike! thanks for getting back to us!

[Owlie]

Ooh, very nice.

[NbyNW]

Congrats! I missed your thread the first time around since I was traveling, but I can appreciate how difficult it is to find a bike as a petite woman, and I love a happy ending!

[Tropical Scream]

What a beautiful bike.

[lunacycles]

I definitely want carbon and cannot afford custom.

huh? as much as I know, entry level carbon is generally in the same price range as entry level custom.

Also, your seatpost is most likely a setback, which puts you back about an inch further than a straight seatpost. Changing that will help bring you closer to the handlebars and put less pressure on your wrists, shoulders, and neck

This is the least desirable way to "compensate" for too long of a reach. Your baseline when being fit should be your position on the saddle, relative to the crank. Manipulating this to attain desired reach is considered a no-no, and can lead to knee problems, amongst other probs...

AT 5' tall, you have your work cut out for you finding a road bike, very most especially a road bike with 700c wheels, that really, truly fits you.

[ms1]

huh? as much as I know, entry level carbon is generally in the same price range as entry level custom.



This is the least desirable way to "compensate" for too long of a reach. Your baseline when being fit should be your position on the saddle, relative to the crank. Manipulating this to attain desired reach is considered a no-no, and can lead to knee problems, amongst other probs...

AT 5' tall, you have your work cut out for you finding a road bike, very most especially a road bike with 700c wheels, that really, truly fits you.

Well, out of curiosity, I checked your your website and your custom bike with a carbon fork and seat stays (whereas mine is full carbon) is at least 50% more than I paid with comparable components.

I do not claim to be an expert, but I can manage a rough side by side comparison. Your bike may be better for many reasons, and it looks like you've taken a lot of care and interest in women's fit and component issues, but it is solidly more expensive than my Trek, which by the way, I'm quite happy with.