Sport Comfort Bikes

[Zen]

I'm not sure about the gearing. it may be alright but if you're carrying weight you might want a wider gear range.
Your bike will probably take a rack but since it's sort of a comfort bike it's probably rather heavy by itself.
And aluminum can be bone jarring. If you're seriously considering touring I would investigate steel.It's light, sturdy and smooth as silk.

[Heifzilla]

Thanks for your reply.

There are so many different types of bikes out there, some of the differences are subtle, some are totally obvious. I am enjoying learning about them. I don't know if I'm serious about touring...it just looks like something I'd like to try. I just don't want to go out and spend the money on a specialized type of bike and then decide it's not for me because that would be a waste of money. How does one try out touring without having to spend $1000 on a new bike? Is touring any sort of "take your bike, pack some stuff, and spend the night on the road" ride, or is there a specific mileage that you have to travel before it is considering touring, and not just an extended bike ride?

Thanks again for replying

[Zen]

I guess touring is in the eye of the beholder.
i took a 4 day trip last year with some of the Mid-Atlantic TE contingent. We averaged about 40 miles per day. It was flat because it was on the canal towpath. I didn't need a wide gear range but I did need a sturdy bike. The one I rode for that cost about $500 new but I definitely wouldn't want to take it on the road with any hills.

Maybe you can choose a destination like a state park that's about 25 or 30 miles away and do an overnighter just to get the feel of how your bike would handle that.

Here's a recap http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showt...ght=Canal+trip

[Tuckervill]

I bought my touring bike for $90. It was in perfect condition, even though it is an '83 model. I posted about looking for one on bikeforums.net, and one magically came to me.

I spent a little money putting bar end shifters on it, changing the stem and putting a Brooks saddle on it. Total cost about $300.

You just have to know what to look for. I learned most of what I know from bikeforums.net (classic and vintage section) and TE, which supplemented what I knew about steel bikes from the '70s.

Karen

[OakLeaf]

What you NEED is: (not necessarily in this order)
* a way to carry your stuff
* a helmet
* a pair of cycling gloves
* a mechanically sound bike
* a basic tool kit and basic mechanical knowledge (adjustments, tightening stuff that's come loose)
* a way to inflate tires (CO2 or pump), a set of tire levers, a spare tube and a patch kit, and knowledge of how to fix a flat
* a map
* a plan (which doesn't have to be elaborate, but you need to figure out whether you're campground camping, primitive camping or credit card touring, and select your travel gear accordingly, and have a good idea of how many miles you can do in a day WITH the load you plan to carry); and
* the determination to do it.

If you plan to carry a cell phone or other non-watertight electronics, then you need a way to keep it dry in the rain (which can be as simple as a ziploc bag).

Anything else is comfort and convenience.

My grandfather talked about touring in the Alps before the derailleur was invented. For all I know his bike was state of the art for its day. It had gears! At the bottom of each mountain they'd dismount and manually place the chain on the climbing cog. At the top they'd dismount and manually place the chain on the descending cog.

I did my first two tours (solo, camping, two weeks each) in gym shorts and floppy sneakers, on a bike that was too big for me, with gears that were probably too tall for some of the terrain. The first tour, I started out with 45-50 mile days, and as I got stronger, the days got longer. And you know what? I had an amazingly wonderful time.

Do what makes you happy! Trust me, there are ALWAYS ways to spend more money on bicycling, and some of those ways will definitely make you happier and more comfortable, but very little of it is actually necessary.

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

Most touring bikes are able to take wider tires (wider than 23c) to navigate on varied less-than-ideal surfaces. That means wider forks and wider brake reach.
They also have braze-ons & eyelets that you can attach racks, bags, and panniers to.
Their frames are made to carry the extra load of camping equipment.
They have the ability or put two or three water bottle cages.
Most have drop bars rather than straight handlebars, because over many hours of riding you really NEED to change your hand positions often.
They often have a longer base or longer trail which makes them more stable in handling and less 'fickle'.
They usually have a wider gearing range than typical road bikes and can climb mountains better.
A lot of people do like steel bikes for touring because they give a pretty comfortable ride. The least desirable frame for long distance would I think be aluminum.

You don't say what you mean by 'serious distance'....30 miles? 130 miles?

[Triskeliongirl]

The problem with the bike you have now (I know I had one) is it is very heavy and it has components of poor quality. So, once you get it loaded with stuff, it will be very difficult to ride, and you'll get quickly disouraged.

You are better off buying a used high quality touring bike, than trying to make due on this one. However, I just gave my raleigh SC to my daughter. Its a great college bike for a young adult.