Bike advice?

[Zen]

I'm a happy owner of TWO FX's.
one is a 7.2 WSD that I bought to beat the hail out of on the canal towpath, the other is the 7.6 that I bought to replace my Pilot. I intend to use that as a 'go-fast' (for me, anyway) road bike.

I know the 7.5 looks nice but for your needs I would say go for the 7.3. or 7.2.
Why? Because it's sturdier (32 spokes vs.20) and because it's well within your budget. It leaves you some discretionary funds for, well you know, stuff. Stuff adds up
Just my humble opinion.

I wonder why there's not a 7.4?

I just noticed your $1000 is Canadian. I just can't do that math right now

[zeWoo]

I had this same discussion a little over a week ago -- deciding is a chore... I know.

I'm going to say exactly what you don't want to hear from someone replying to your 'which bike should I buy' thread ... I know absolutely nothing about bikes, I'm 'bike dumb...'

But when did that ever stop me from inserting my opinion?

How's bout that Specialized Globe ...? I saw that in one of the LBS's, that looked like a bike that could take a beating and kinda had a cool thing happening... well, I liked it's looks anyway, I don't recall hearing anything stellar about the ride, maybe you can try it and report back...

As for the Trek, I was all sold on the FX series, which I'm certain is great and all, probably the bike I would have bought no doubt, but circumstances led me back around to the GT Transeo(now I just wait for the slow boat from China to bring it in so I can ride it)... seemed to be a bit more bike for the money, when I started really looking at the bottom line compared to the Trek -- excellent reviews and quite upgradable -- that said, if all goes south with the Transeo, I might take a second look at the Trek FX 7.2 ...

That said, that Trek 7.2 has the coveted 'doubled sided rims'(you can read about them in my thread) they're apparently the bee knees of rims, if not just tops -- and since I think Badgercats boyfriend's issues probably had more to do with the wheels rather than the brand of bike(according to my brief bike education), so maybe the Marins are OK too... I suspect you'll need to take special care in building up that rear wheel, of course me and you will only have to worry about that for a bit, because those bowls of hot and sour soup are going to fly off the thighs, once we get goin, eh?

Anyway, as for theft -- maybe you can pay a couple of guys 10 bucks, to go rough up your brand new Trek, so it looks like a beater and no one wants to steal it.... I have come up with more clever ideas, really... I have.

Anyway, my plan is to see how it goes with the factory wheel set first, and just see if my guy can do some abracadabra bike mystic magic stuff to make the wheel stronger, if not... ah well -- then at the first sign of trouble, I'll just invest in the proper wheel, but why make an issue of it -- before anything happens, I was losing sleep over this two weeks ago, but I've finally got a grip... I just needed to chill and go with the flow...that's the best advice.

Anyway, good luck.....

[badgercat]

since I think Badgercats boyfriend's issues probably had more to do with the wheels rather than the brand of bike(according to my brief bike education), so maybe the Marins are OK too...

I definitely didn't mean to knock Marin in general, so I hope it didn't come off that way... Yeah, the wheels were certainly a major problem and he probably would have done well to replace them with something sturdier. I actually asked him about it later today, though, and he claims that he was actually able to (if he, for example stopped at an intersection in too hard of a gear) basically significantly tilt the crankset by just pedaling hard . Perhaps that was a fluke since he has sort of ridiculous leg strength (he can leg-press several hundred pounds), but it clearly wasn't the right bike all-around for someone of his size and strength. I guess the point I was trying to make was just that their lower-end bikes maybe didn't have ideal parts for a bigger rider, at least not at that time--he said he would certainly consider buying a Marin again, he'd just take a closer look at what it was made out of first.

[zeWoo]

I definitely didn't mean to knock Marin in general, so I hope it didn't come off that way... Yeah, the wheels were certainly a major problem and he probably would have done well to replace them with something sturdier. I actually asked him about it later today, though, and he claims that he was actually able to (if he, for example stopped at an intersection in too hard of a gear) basically significantly tilt the crankset by just pedaling hard . Perhaps that was a fluke since he has sort of ridiculous leg strength (he can leg-press several hundred pounds), but it clearly wasn't the right bike all-around for someone of his size and strength. I guess the point I was trying to make was just that their lower-end bikes maybe didn't have ideal parts for a bigger rider, at least not at that time--he said he would certainly consider buying a Marin again, he'd just take a closer look at what it was made out of first.

Just remember two words when it come to me... BIKE DUMB

I was just trying to emphasize the point that the wheel thingy seems to be a major pain in the rear, if you're heavier, no matter what brand of the bike you're riding -- for all I know(not much, I tell you), Marin could be the crappiest bike shaped object on the road(no offense to people that own Marins, I bet your bike is AWESOME)... I guess you just have to try them out and see how it goes ...

[Softie]

Thanks for all the great info. I'm getting so excited about having a bike again that I think I might crack one day soon, and end up coming home with a new bike (it happened with my puppy and I haven't regretted it...most days ).

As a noob who doesn't quite understand some quality issues, what are the differences between a 7.2, 7.3, and 7.5? I've looked at the specs online, but I'm not sure what it means in terms of what exactly it *means* functionally (quality, durability, longevity of components, weight, etc). The 7.2 is about $559; 7.3 is $719; 7.5 at $919 (Canadian $ as new - but I keep an eye out for used). I'd like to get the best for my buck, but any money saved means bigger budget for locks, panniers, etc.

[Cataboo]

haha. My marin is awesome! I will attempt to forgive you and not take offense on behalf of it. It's not bottom of the line, it came with shimano wheels and a carbon fiber crankset. I think cranks & wheels are usually made by a 3rd party on bikes.

I'm not sure what you mean by tilt the crankset - as in, the bottom bracket twists or just the crank arm flexes... if that's a problem with the bike or the frame. If it's the crank that's flexing, that's easily upgradeable and that's why a lot of people upgrade their cranks - ultegra cranks are stiffer than 105, and dura ace or carbon cranks stiffer than that. I can't say that I notice a difference, but I've read threads where they compare shimano 105 cranks to noodles. It just depends on your leg strength and how much power you have and I apparently don't have enough to notice 105 cranks as noodles.

If the entire bottom bracket is flexing or tilting and it's the frame - he may need a bike with one of those massive tubes on the bottom bracket

As for wheels - I do see those complaints fairly common on wheel reviews across the net - light people loving such & such wheel vs. heavier guys hating them. He should maybe look into a touring set or something for cyclocross.

[Zen]

Softie, if they have at least a lower end and a higher end FX built up at the shop the differences will be obvious even if you don't understand the technical specs.

I was also thinking about your long torso/short legs. Just the opposite of me. You should be able to fit a mens bike.

[badgercat]

haha. My marin is awesome! I will attempt to forgive you and not take offense on behalf of it. It's not bottom of the line, it came with shimano wheels and a carbon fiber crankset. I think cranks & wheels are usually made by a 3rd party on bikes.

I'm not sure what you mean by tilt the crankset - as in, the bottom bracket twists or just the crank arm flexes... if that's a problem with the bike or the frame. If it's the crank that's flexing, that's easily upgradeable and that's why a lot of people upgrade their cranks - ultegra cranks are stiffer than 105, and dura ace or carbon cranks stiffer than that. I can't say that I notice a difference, but I've read threads where they compare shimano 105 cranks to noodles. It just depends on your leg strength and how much power you have and I apparently don't have enough to notice 105 cranks as noodles.

If the entire bottom bracket is flexing or tilting and it's the frame - he may need a bike with one of those massive tubes on the bottom bracket

As for wheels - I do see those complaints fairly common on wheel reviews across the net - light people loving such & such wheel vs. heavier guys hating them. He should maybe look into a touring set or something for cyclocross.

As far as what was bending, I don't think it was just the crank arm; he claims you could see a change in angle of the chainring. I never saw it in action and he doesn't have the bike anymore so I can't describe it any more detail unfortunately.

So anyway, I'll bring this back around to the OP: Softie mentions in her first post that she'd like to avoid having to make immediate upgrades on a new bike to make it appropriate to her size and strength. I'm just sayin' that my boyfriend's stock Marin from the low end of their bike spectrum (based on you having carbon-fiber-anything, I'd say your bike is quite a bit higher on their food chain ) was not appropriate to his (similar) size and strength. Rather than having to change out the wheels, the brakes, AND try to do something about the flexing, he sold it to a much smaller guy, got a cyclocross bike, and has a blast.

Please tell your bike I didn't mean to hurt its feelings.

Softie, I hope I haven't dragged your thread around too much--I'm not trying to tell you to count out Marin, they really do seem to make lovely bikes overall. But, that one just didn't work out for my guy, and since he is of such a similar size to you I thought it was worth bringing up.

[Biciclista]

Thanks for all the great info. I'm getting so excited about having a bike again that I think I might crack one day soon, and end up coming home with a new bike (it happened with my puppy and I haven't regretted it...most days ).

As a noob who doesn't quite understand some quality issues, what are the differences between a 7.2, 7.3, and 7.5? I've looked at the specs online, but I'm not sure what it means in terms of what exactly it *means* functionally (quality, durability, longevity of components, weight, etc). The 7.2 is about $559; 7.3 is $719; 7.5 at $919 (Canadian $ as new - but I keep an eye out for used). I'd like to get the best for my buck, but any money saved means bigger budget for locks, panniers, etc.

the diff between the cheapest bike in a series and the middle and the best:
The middle will probably have better components than the cheapest. after the first price jump what you are probably getting is LIGHTER components, which after a while the dollars just don't match up for the ounces. I mean, is it worth $500 to take a half a pound off a bike?
So try the 7.2 and the 7.3 see if the handling is the same, the brakes work well enough. And ask the LBS guy what the diff is.