Questions BEFORE the LBS trip...

[aicabsolut]

Test ride a lot of bikes. Try out different geometry (WSD, "relaxed" competitive road, aggressive (more crit racing style) road, etc.) and different brands (which will also have different geometry). Ride in your price range and see how the "ride" is, but if you intend to race in the relatively near future, you will probably want 1) a light frame, and 2) good components. That may take you up in budget a bit, but then you will be less inclined to want to buy a completely new bike in a year when you're into racing. You can get a cheap light frame, like a Cannondale aluminum frame. Or you can go with carbon if you prefer the ride, but it will cost more for a decent (light and stiff) level of carbon. The components will probably be what will annoy you the most if they are a bit too cheap, because they could take more maintenance and might get obnoxious to deal with in terms of performance if you're going to be doing group rides with racers and starting to race. That doesn't mean you need a $2500 Dura Ace 2900 groupset. Something like 105 will be plenty good for a beginner racer. It's just that you may not find that on a sub $1k bike unless it's on a good sale. Things like wheels might be not so aerodynamic and heavy, but those are an easy upgrade later if you save up for more race oriented wheels. Something nice and durable is a good way to start there.

Also, if you're going back to school, see if your school has a team. It's a cheap way to get into racing and there are some good intro categories. It's not a NCAA sport, so there are no eligibility rules as far as age or years in school. You're just supposed to be a full time student.

[Kelly728]

aicabsolut- Thanks for a bit more insight on what to look for if racing is in my future. I will keep this in mind (hopefully I'll be out at one of the LBS tomorrow!) I just have that fear that I will be absolutely lousy at cycling . I know if I decide to stick below my budget now, either way, I should be much more able to upgrade in a few years.

My school does have a cycling club, however it is only open to full time undergrads and I'm a part time grad student. Oops! I know once I do start considering racing, I'll be looking around for more advice then on where to start.

[aicabsolut]

uh, do they compete in collegiate racing? if so, then grads are definitely allowed. i think you're supposed to be full time, technically, at least to go to nationals, but if you're a newbie, no one will care. oh wait, if you're in MD, which school..? you'd be in my conference ACCC. i'm a grad student. i didn't get into racing until i was a grad student.

[lunacycles]

I don't want to make the issue more complex, but I will, for the sake of clarity.

Yes, spend hundreds more and you will get a "lighter" frame, be it aluminum or carbon fiber or whatever. Spend more than that and you will get lighter components that work a tiny bit better.

Be aware, however, that frame weight is "static weight." This means that it has very little effect on how well it will actually perform (except, possibly, psychologically).

You are a new rider but someone interested in fitness? Then get the best FITTING bike in your price range and don't worry so much about the rest. Best "fitting" means you feel comfortable on the bike, the bike feels comfortable holding you, you find it easy to control and aren't incurring pain to control it or ride it. You should feel comfortable riding it, bottom line.

If, after time, you become serious about racing, weight, etc., then worry about that then. Honestly, frame weight is relatively unimportant. More important, if you are considering weight, are the things you turn over and over and over again (i.e., "rotating weight") with each pedal stroke. This is the weight you actually feel as you ride and what can have an overall effect on your performance, speed-wise. this means wheels, cranks, and bottom bracket (the bearings which support your cranks). The best investment you can make to reduce weight and make the bike ride lighter are a sweet set of LIGHT wheels.

I know a lot of experienced framebuilders, including myself, who feel that losing 5 lbs off your body has a much more profound effect on your ability to ride quickly than a pound or two off frame/fork weight. They are pretty much the same thing in the sense that each is "static" weight that you carry with you every pedal stroke.

Anyway, I think this thread has made you think more than you intended and need to. best advice from someone who manufactures and sells bikes for a living is: find a shop where you feel comfortable and are treated respectably. Let them guide you. Trust your body as far as fit goes. When a bike feels good, you will know it. It may take a few weeks or months to determine that given your newness, but a good shop will support you along that path, and make changes as you discover what works for you.

[Kelly728]

aicabsolut- PM'd you

Luna- I appreciate that other side of the coin, sticking in my price range. I feel like right now, that really would be in my best interest. Not blowing all my money on the bike so I don't have to scrimp on the extras!

Guess I'll just see what happens. I didn't get a chance to make it out to one of the shops today, things are still holiday crazy. Hopefully friday, saturday, or some day next week will work much better.

[lunacycles]

I'm not talking about scrimping. I am talking about priorities. If you have a price range, and you implied you do, than fit (not bells and whistles) and finding a shop that will be there for you as you evolve as a cyclist should be your priorities. Good luck whatever route you go.

[Kelly728]

luna,
it was not my intention to come off snarky. sorry if i did. I meant that if i did go above my price range i would have to tighten my budget on anything else I may need to purchase with the bike.