Questions BEFORE the LBS trip...

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

Kelly, as a new rider, you will find that test riding bikes at the bike stores will be a huge help to you.
The more bikes to test ride, the more you will start to get a feel for which bikes feel comfortable and which bikes make you feel not well balanced or distributed on.
Take notes- after test riding 4 or 5 bikes, you will likely NOT be able to keep the details all straight in your head! You might have to go back to try the few couple of bikes again after you start getting a feel. Bike shops expect people to do test rides.
By the time you have test ridden quite a few different bikes, you'll start to actually feel when you are comfortable and well balanced and when you are not.
That's way better than just hearing each LBS guy tell you what bike they are convinced you need and what size you should be on and then accepting that as the absolute truth. Everyone's body is different, and 3 people who are the same height and weight might feel very differently on the very same bike.
I would not recommend buying any bike that you have not test ridden a couple of times.

Keep in mind that most bike store salespeople will naturally want to sell you a bike that they have on the floor already, but that they sometimes are willing to order another size for you to try out (still without a firm sale commitment) if the one in stock seems a bit large or small for you. You might need to ask this, as a smaller woman with fewer bikes on hand to try.
Also, when you finally make up your mind and commit to buying a certain bike, you can usually get parts swapped out before the sale with no labor charge, and get the total price adjusted higher or lower just by the dollar difference in parts. If you request a pedal you like for instance, and it's cheaper then the pedal that comes standard on the bike, then you can ask to have the price adjusted down by the difference.
You might have to spend more to swap parts if you come back later on after the sale is over -after the part you are swapping is 'used', and also you will understandably have to pay the labor charge then. These after-sale policies vary between stores.
One more thing- when you do buy a bike you are also in effect buying the support of that store- if all else is equal and two bikes are just as good from two diff stores, buy from the store that treats you well and was willing to patiently and cheerfully spend time helping you when you were shopping for your bike. That's the store you may be taking your bike back to if problems arise or when you need help with your bike down the road. If you are unhappy with your new bike, the last thing you need is to have to bring it back to some guys who couldn't care less about you after they got your check.

Have fun...bike shopping is so exciting!!

[Kelly728]

Thanks for all the great advice everyone, seems like a super helpful group you all have here!

Sfa- I added Bella Bikes to my list. It is a little bit of a commute for me, but I do make it out towards that area once in a while so I'll have to check it out.

fidl- Phew! Great idea about the notebook. I know it will be tough for me to stretch my budget past $1k, but I'll consider waiting a bit if it appears to be worth it. The $1k was primarily the budget for the bike and I am willing to add on the necessities. I already have the cycling shorts from the spin classes I do. I think you lost me a bit at the triple/compact, but I'll do a bit more reading up on that.

Bleecker- I know I'll be just that person that goes back to the same bike shop several times, I'm unbelievably indecisive! I hope the bike shopping thing gets more exciting rather than overwhelming! I figure at the rate I'm going, I'll have a bike by oh, next December.

[Miranda]

I have a Giant OCR1 women's specific bike size small. I'm 5'5" but am built more like a guy... short legs, long torso.

To do it over, I would probably look at mens bikes. Your build is that of the classic Barbie doll that womens specific bikes were made for... short torso, long legs. Giant doesn't specifically make my model of bike anymore, but something similiar. It's in your price range. My OCR1w was $1100 at the time, and a lot of bang for your buck. Aluminum frame, with carbon seat post and forks.

The geometry is a bit more forgiving than a traditional road bike as well. It's technically considered their top of the line "sport bike". A bit more up right riding position, but still with curved drop road bike handle bars. The top tube on the frame geometrically slopes downward more than a true road bike. Thus, how short legged me could clear it to fit a size small. Which is technically about a 52cm. Giant does make an "extra small" as well. Your legs would surely fit my bike since I clear it with a 29" inseam. The more upright could be a bit better with less reach for the shorter torso.

Just some things to consider. As posted, look at and try as many as possible. Mayberry where I live is really limited on things to try. I had to travel to find one. Sometimes if you have something you like, that dealer could call and search for a shop with your size. Then, you are not driving a wasted trip.

Good Luck!

[cobalt]

i too am a newbie and I wanted to say hi and welcome!

My advice would be to ignore the seat on the bike because bike saddles are so easy to switch. Often you have to try a few to find a comfy saddle. Some stores have this gel that you sit on and it tells you how wide your sit bones are inside. I changed my saddle to an inexpensive one because it felt the best and it made a huge difference. It was $20 something.

You also really need padded shorts. Before you buy them make sure the chamois is thick enough. You can buy the kind that you wear under any clothes or the spandex shorts/tights. Other than padded gloves and a helmut and water bottle that's all I started with. I added a little thing that keeps track of miles and speed and I like it.

The mistakes I made... I bought a bike pack but it's not big enough. My husband's is bigger, why would I think I needed a tiny one?? You hook it on the back of your seat and carry an ID, cash, kleenex, energy food etc in it.

About bikes. I have a road bike and I like that I can change hand positions. With a mountain bike you can't do that. I didn't upgrade to the shoes that go into the special pedals yet. My bike came with toe clips. They take me a bit to get my feet into when I start but they are ok. I just wear stiff walking shoes with them.

Good luck!

[aicabsolut]

Test ride a lot of bikes. Try out different geometry (WSD, "relaxed" competitive road, aggressive (more crit racing style) road, etc.) and different brands (which will also have different geometry). Ride in your price range and see how the "ride" is, but if you intend to race in the relatively near future, you will probably want 1) a light frame, and 2) good components. That may take you up in budget a bit, but then you will be less inclined to want to buy a completely new bike in a year when you're into racing. You can get a cheap light frame, like a Cannondale aluminum frame. Or you can go with carbon if you prefer the ride, but it will cost more for a decent (light and stiff) level of carbon. The components will probably be what will annoy you the most if they are a bit too cheap, because they could take more maintenance and might get obnoxious to deal with in terms of performance if you're going to be doing group rides with racers and starting to race. That doesn't mean you need a $2500 Dura Ace 2900 groupset. Something like 105 will be plenty good for a beginner racer. It's just that you may not find that on a sub $1k bike unless it's on a good sale. Things like wheels might be not so aerodynamic and heavy, but those are an easy upgrade later if you save up for more race oriented wheels. Something nice and durable is a good way to start there.

Also, if you're going back to school, see if your school has a team. It's a cheap way to get into racing and there are some good intro categories. It's not a NCAA sport, so there are no eligibility rules as far as age or years in school. You're just supposed to be a full time student.

[Kelly728]

aicabsolut- Thanks for a bit more insight on what to look for if racing is in my future. I will keep this in mind (hopefully I'll be out at one of the LBS tomorrow!) I just have that fear that I will be absolutely lousy at cycling . I know if I decide to stick below my budget now, either way, I should be much more able to upgrade in a few years.

My school does have a cycling club, however it is only open to full time undergrads and I'm a part time grad student. Oops! I know once I do start considering racing, I'll be looking around for more advice then on where to start.

[aicabsolut]

uh, do they compete in collegiate racing? if so, then grads are definitely allowed. i think you're supposed to be full time, technically, at least to go to nationals, but if you're a newbie, no one will care. oh wait, if you're in MD, which school..? you'd be in my conference ACCC. i'm a grad student. i didn't get into racing until i was a grad student.

[lunacycles]

I don't want to make the issue more complex, but I will, for the sake of clarity.

Yes, spend hundreds more and you will get a "lighter" frame, be it aluminum or carbon fiber or whatever. Spend more than that and you will get lighter components that work a tiny bit better.

Be aware, however, that frame weight is "static weight." This means that it has very little effect on how well it will actually perform (except, possibly, psychologically).

You are a new rider but someone interested in fitness? Then get the best FITTING bike in your price range and don't worry so much about the rest. Best "fitting" means you feel comfortable on the bike, the bike feels comfortable holding you, you find it easy to control and aren't incurring pain to control it or ride it. You should feel comfortable riding it, bottom line.

If, after time, you become serious about racing, weight, etc., then worry about that then. Honestly, frame weight is relatively unimportant. More important, if you are considering weight, are the things you turn over and over and over again (i.e., "rotating weight") with each pedal stroke. This is the weight you actually feel as you ride and what can have an overall effect on your performance, speed-wise. this means wheels, cranks, and bottom bracket (the bearings which support your cranks). The best investment you can make to reduce weight and make the bike ride lighter are a sweet set of LIGHT wheels.

I know a lot of experienced framebuilders, including myself, who feel that losing 5 lbs off your body has a much more profound effect on your ability to ride quickly than a pound or two off frame/fork weight. They are pretty much the same thing in the sense that each is "static" weight that you carry with you every pedal stroke.

Anyway, I think this thread has made you think more than you intended and need to. best advice from someone who manufactures and sells bikes for a living is: find a shop where you feel comfortable and are treated respectably. Let them guide you. Trust your body as far as fit goes. When a bike feels good, you will know it. It may take a few weeks or months to determine that given your newness, but a good shop will support you along that path, and make changes as you discover what works for you.