Walking in the winter in hard conditions, especially when there is snow on the sidewalks, is quite a workout.
You can always get snowshoes if there really is too much snow!!![]()
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beccaB--yes, I'd love to find a cycling buddy but I do not have a car...my main mode of transportation is biking (yay, small carbon footprint!)
Btw, I am in no shape to do a century (mentally or physically!)Maybe one day...but that will be in the future
If you're ever in town, or planning to be, or are going to a nearby event, let me know!
Ana
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2009 Lynskey R230
Trek Mountain Track 850
Walking in the winter in hard conditions, especially when there is snow on the sidewalks, is quite a workout.
You can always get snowshoes if there really is too much snow!!![]()
2-3 miles is not that far...that's the good part.
even still...you said you don't own a car, so the trek is your main mode of transportation. things to consider...first, you need the right winter cycling gear. the biggest obstacle for me riding in winter was the old. as cold as it feels once you step out that door, it's a a zillion times colder once you get going 20mph!!!!!!! also...you need the right tires...some good treaded winter ties...maybe even studded tires. next...when it gets wet and slushy, fenders are nice to keep the dirty wet stuff off of you backside and legs and such.
if you can, clean that bike daily. hose it down gently if you can. keep it indoors when possible.
the right riding gear...the right tires...fenders...good bike care. that's about it!!!!!![]()
Given your budget, a studded tire(s) is out. The only ones worth considering are Nokians, and here in the USA they would take most of your budget. Salt can be washed off daily to minimize damage. Even with daily cleaning of the chain and gears, 6 months of sand and salt will probably require a new chain and probably a new cassette. Think of it as commuting on the beach. If that is still within your budget, go ahead. The other complication is brakes. When it is right at freezing or just below, your rims will ice up decreasing braking enormously. You may need to ride with your brakes applied continuously to prevent this. That is very tiring physically and mentally. Disc brakes avoid this problem, but if your bike isn't already equipped with them, it is out of your stated budget. HOWEVER, WHEN RIDING ON SNOW AND ICE, DO NOT USE YOUR FRONT BRAKE, THE REAR WILL IS LESS LIKELY TO SKID! By the way, even with fenders, when slush is falling from the sky and it is around freezing your gears will ice up turning your bike into a single speed. You need to change gears frequently to prevent this or you may find yourself facing a hill on your big ring and a small cog.
Clothing is less of an issue. Tops and bottom, wool is your first choice, polyester fleece second, never cotton. For the short distance you are describing, you won't get as overheated as on a longer commute, but you still need a jacket that is going to vent the sweat you will generate. I recommend that you change when you get to your destination if at all possible. If you use clipless pedals, take them off for the winter. They ice up and so do the cleats. I like riding with ordinary waterproof winter boots with a side zip and just high enough to completely cover your ankles, about 6 to 8 inches. It is useful to have a pair of rainpants/windpants. Balaclava, ski gloves or mitts, wool liner gloves, wool socks and possibly ski googles finish your wardrobe. Thrift store purchases can bring it into your budget. Become a weather fan, listen to multiple reports to plan your trip. Be sure to allow 30 minutes to dress, and another 15 minutes to turn on all your bike lights and do a safety check on your bike.
From what you've described of your trip I agree that the cheapest, safe solution is to walk on the slushy days and when the roads have not been cleared fully. Avoid riding on days when cars can not safely pass you. When it is just cold, go ahead and ride. Consider putting some money in a jar every day you can't ride, and use it next fall to buy studded tires. This is the only time I would suggest this, but for a winter beater bike, consider going to X-mart. Buy a cheap mountain bike with disc brakes to put those tires on. Then find someone to help disassemble and correctly reassemble the entire bike, making sure that all of the rotational systems are fully greased and putting on headset seals etc. It will be a heavy tank, but you will be able to stop safely. Alternatively, watch the police auctions, and pick up a bike with disc brakes that way.
Anna, I have a pair of 26x1.9 Nokian studded tires I'm looking to sell (I'm moving away from slush, sleet, snow, and ice -- woo!); ideally I'd get $75 for the pair, but I'm willing to negotiate. Interested?
Edited to add: Winter biking is orders of magnitude harder on your bike -- and thus more expensive -- than summer biking. If you ride all winter in all weather, you'll definitely have to replace the chain & cassette, and, odds are good, the bottom bracket & headset by the time you're done even if you take really good care of your bike. If you can avoid riding your bike on sloppy days, you'll save yourself a bundle. My winter bike requires $600 worth of repairs from last winter (I still haven't done it -- sticker shock, I think).
Last edited by kfergos; 09-29-2008 at 08:40 AM.