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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by mayanorange View Post
    I will check the cones tonight- is that a part that would need replacing if they are pitted or is that part of the hub? Once I hacksawed off the chain, I did the crank wiggle test and the BB seem solid. I had it mostly apart and on its side at that point, so didn't turn the cranks around. I have no idea is it's a cartridge or lock ring. The specs seem to match this slightly older Purgatory, but I don't know what some of these old numbers are. Once I got the chain off, there were more teeth (~6-8 total) that are more like stubs, so I was thinking of getting this crank to replace it. Most of the gear on it is AceraX, so should match well.

    So my shopping list has: crankset, crank puller, chain (with quicklink so I don't need a chain splitter- or do I need one to shorten it?), 2 derailleur cables (I should have cutters that will work, tho not bike specific), pedros syngrease (I assume I can use for both shock and bearings?), lizard skin fork boots, and 2 new tubes (the tires look nearly new). Any other bike specific tools I need? I have a hoard of tools from my first car- I had to buy my own, so it was a total rustbucket.
    Cones are screwed onto the axle and are the hub part that wears quickest. If you replace cones, might as well put in new bearings too as they add only a few dollars.

    Hacksawing off the chain? A chain tool would have been quicker, but guess a hacksaw does job.

    Bottom bracket cartridge or adjustable with lockring - see pictures here

    Additional Tools:
    chain tool to shorten new chain
    probably a 14 or 15 mm socket to remove the crank bolt, or possibly a 8 mm allen key
    cone wrenches if you need to open the hubs (usually 13 mm for front hub and 15 mm for rear hub) plus an adjustable wrench for the lock nuts
    if you have to open the rear hub, the cassette or freewheel must be removed with the appropriate tool(s)
    pedal wrench
    if you have an adjustable bottom bracket and need to open it, then a lockring tool and pin spanner

    PM me if you have trouble coming up with the tools you need. I live near you and have everything.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Wellesley, MA
    Posts
    361
    Quote Originally Posted by DebW View Post
    Hacksawing off the chain? A chain tool would have been quicker, but guess a hacksaw does job.

    PM me if you have trouble coming up with the tools you need. I live near you and have everything.
    Thanks Deb, I might take you up on that. And I do think it was faster to just cut it off- It was frozen stiff with rust so I had to cut it a couple times to get it out of the rear derailleur. Not sure the pins would have come out.

 

 

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