Do you have a narrow sit bone width (just curious)? When I went into my less-than-beloved LBS, they measured me for a 130 mm Specialized saddle (the narrowest width for women. I sat on that silly oozy contraption. Does that mean they are figuring for the 1-2cm on each side of your sit bones?
What men's saddles have worked best for you?![]()
Ana
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2009 Lynskey R230
Trek Mountain Track 850
Yes
Let's see, my all-time favorites are:
1-SSM Era arrowhead (124mm), LOVE LOVE LOVE that one!!!the Era is my 'travel seat', I take it with me to use with rental/borrowed bikes when I have to travel - just to make sure that my ride is going to be comfortable!
2-SI SLR gel flow (130mm), love that one too!!!
3-I just got a SSM aspide carbon superleggera a few days ago (there's a thread here in the favorite saddles with my comments about it), 130mm too, and it's really fantastic (and 120 grams!!!).
Another saddle I liked (I got to borrow it for a couple of months from a friend) is the AX lightness phoenix (125mm). The weight is like 60 grams or less, great saddle, but it was like $600 so totally out of my saddle budget!![]()
My sb's measure about 125mm. Love my 132mm Ariones. Found Fizik's "women's performance" saddle, the Vitesse HP, a bit wide, and likewise found BF's old 143mm Specialized Alias too wide in back.
My anatomy does not get on well with cutouts at all. I'm much more comfortable without one...
BF is currently riding a Selle Italia Flite Gelflow (about 130mm). It's ok, I think I'd do better on the SLR if I were going to choose a Selle Italia saddle.
Last edited by VeloVT; 09-10-2008 at 04:43 AM.
Start with a Brooks by leveling the NOSE, not the entire saddle.
The cantle (the bit at the back) will rise slightly higher than the forepart of the saddle.
Don't forget there is a cantle plate under the rear of the saddle. When you sit on the leather, it hammocks under your butt. You end up sinking a bit lower at the slightly higher rear of the saddle, essentially bringing the hammocking bit down to about the same approximate height as the nose, BUT ONLY WHILE YOU ARE ON IT.
If you level the saddle from tip-to-tail instead of at the nose only, you may end up with some pain in front.
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
First check all the obvious suspects: loose clamp, squeaking springs (if you've got 'em), creaking frame joints under the cantle.
Then check the not-so-obvious nose end. All that hardware at the tensioning bolt can creak. And the real odd bit to check is the half-ball and socket joint (yes, there is one) at the very front of the saddle. The easiest way I've found to oil that joint is to squirt oil on it from the back half. That is the cause of probably 99.999% of the creaking of my B67.
Nose creaks can propagate through the frame and sound like they are absolutely positively no-doubt-about-it coming from the back of the frame. Don't forget to check the nose!
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
I may need to run to my LBS to get that gel. I have a Terry Butterfly that starts to get uncomfortable after 1 1/2 hours of riding. I assume it will be around 7". I wear a size 12 when I'm in good shape. Right now, I wear a size 14. So I have those good birthing hips. KnottedYet, I'm checking into the Brooks saddles that you list. Those are wider and may work for me.